teehee I sound like a big ol' naysayer, don't I!? First the bugs and cornstarch, then the gum in Press 'n' Seal. Just trying to relay what others have learned along the way to save you some time and possibly more frustration. (Me, I use a Sewline pencil for all my marking tasks. Swear by it, but it's slower marking than a Pounce I imagine.)

Ever wonder why it's called Pounce when you swipe it, not pounce it?

i haven't heard anything negative about waxed paper. I just trace my design on waxed paper, pin in several places to the the quilt and sew. It works wonderful!

Thanks Ghostie!!! ... not a naysayer at all .. in fact I appreciate your passing along info you have. I had been wondering about the plastic staying in the threads, and ewwww about the chewing gum! :)

This may or not be helpful always test on scrap
 

<O:p> </O:p>
CHALK<O:p></O:p>
For 25 years I have done freehand embroidery work and this has worked best for me.<O:p></O:p>
I ground up different colors of chalk in my mill grinder to see what worked best [what could be seen and removed]. White chalk [baby power, or corn starch] can be vacuumed off on med and dark fabric no problem.<O:p></O:p>
Other colors can be reduced in color intense with white, the more intense the color the harder it is to remove. I just use white and light blue now, the blue is reduced with white. Blue and white chalk is at hardware stores for snap lines [cheap].<O:p></O:p>
You can use a vanishing power with a black light on any color [in the dark]. It is very good for names.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p> </O:p>
PAPER<O:p></O:p>
I use canary paper from an art or drafting supply.<O:p></O:p>
I tear off more than I need and trace a design with 5mm mechanical pencil, place on a piece of ¼” foam rubber on a firm surface. Then I use a small needle syringe [for shots] and poke holes into the lines at key points about 1/8[SUP]th[/SUP]” apart following the design, then I flip it over and sand off the tips with a sanding block or sand paper. I have also used a clear plastic film a permanent marker and sanded the tips, or a small stencil burner. When sanding place pattern on foam or batting, not on a hard surface, to much pressure you might tear your pattern. Mark top front with an “F” [north] so you know placement direction. This way you can tell which way your pattern is laying, and it is easy to <st1:PersonName w:st="on">rev</st1:PersonName>erse, or flip.<O:p></O:p>
Then I have a reusable pattern I can use over and over.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p> </O:p>
APPLYING CHALK<O:p></O:p>
I took a short wide mouth ball jar lid and a nail [or drill] punched a lot of holes in it. <O:p></O:p>
Took a ¼”green scrubber cut it to fit in<st1:PersonName w:st="on">sid</st1:PersonName>e rim on top of the lid.<O:p></O:p>
Took a scrap of velour about 3/8” larger than the lid and placed it on top of the scrubber then screwed the hole thing together onto the jar with my chalk in it. You will have to pounce a while till the chalk starts coming through good. Wipe off your pattern before replacing it so you don’t get shadows. <O:p></O:p>
I did this, years before any thing else was on the market, and still use the same ones today.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p> </O:p>
You can use cinnamon to mark on light fabric then wash it away.<O:p></O:p>
I add white chalk to dark blue powered, the blue and red does not want to wash out.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
PATTERN MARKING<O:p></O:p>
Holding your pattern down firm with one hand, slide your chalk jar across your pattern in one direction only, you can repeat as long as you do not let up with your first hand. You can see if you need to slide again as long as the first hand stays in place. If it is wrong, vacuum it off and start over. <O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
ON A QUILT MACHINE:<O:p></O:p>
I use a piece of Plexiglas about 48x20 and slide it between my batting and my quilt top. This makes a firmer surface to stencil on. Then I take my pattern stencil and place it where I want it, swipe it with powder. Slide the Plexiglas out and quilt. Then vacuum the power off later.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p> </O:p>
If unsure where to place your pattern on the quilt after it is on the machine try this. Draw placement lines on your pattern, north-south-east-west. [Fold in half matching center both directions]. Mark your top with an X placement before you load it on the machine. Then you have your placement mark and don’t have to guess alignment. <O:p></O:p>
<O:p> </O:p>
I just read that if you hair spray your pattern after applying it the chalk stays on till washed. I have not tried it yet.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p> </O:p>
LETTERING <O:p></O:p>
I have made charts of script alphabets in different sizes 1”-2”-ect. on large sheets of card stock paper. [ years ago, with a projector.] Then I trace and connect my words to transfer to my garment or quilt. Now copy machines are the answer. <O:p></O:p>
<O:p> </O:p>
I am fast at this as I have done it for years. If you think this is to long, I don’t type, I peck.<O:p></O:p>
I am just saying…..I hope this helps someone.<O:p></O:p>
Phyllis <O:p></O:p>

This is terrific, Phyllis. Thanks for the detailed post. I love all of the ideas and suggestions.

This board is better than "google". I learn so much from everyone- I am tippy toeing into fmq - really just coming to reality I really want to do it and this board and all the knowledge contained within is AWESOME!

has anyone ever used a sliver of soap? If so, please tell. I've only ever SID a quilt...but I've been wanting to do FMQ'g and try the soap sliver. I realize it would probably only work on darker colored fabric but if there are soap users out there, do tell! Thanks!!

I've used soap slivers and they work great! Lately I've been using Clover chacopel fine markers. They are like pencils and you can sharpen them. They seem to be like chalk and stay until you brush them off or wash them. They make a very fine line which I really like.

Mary Corbet of NeedlenThread had a series on making your own pounce: http://www.needlenthread.com/index.php?s=Pounce even making it a color that works with your project (that you can see!!)

Marysewfun