I am doing a ton of half square trianges with my Fons & Porter ruler. LOVE it by the way :)

But because I am chain piecing the ends I put in keep getting caught in the feed dogs. I do lift the foot first - and I don't even put in the side with the sharp point. I don't know what I could be doing wrong. It seems like it is almost better when I go faster but I don't have as much control that way . . any idea's?

do you have a throat plate with a single needle hole. If so change to that if not using now

Are you sewing separately or are you chaining them together. Most times when you chain them you don't have that problem. I usually start with small piece of fabric to start the chaining.

I prefer to just do them as squares a bit larger then cut them apart on the center line and you will end up with 2 HQT. Or if you already have them cut you could lay them on a piece of tissue paper. It will keep the fabric from going down into the needle hole then it will tear right off when you are done. crafty_linda_b

When I sew HSTs, I use the oversized square and chain piece 1/4" off the center line. I alternate the side that goes under the foot. That way I avoid having to deal with the pointy bit.

WIth this ruler, you will always have the point going through and one solution is to get a different needle plate for your machine (assuming it is offered). The single hole will not allow the fabric to be pulled into the feed dogs. HOWEVER you have to be aware that you can't switch to a different stitch - it will bust the needle.

Change your needle. A dull needle or one with a burr on it will grab the fabric.

I have the exact same problem with triangles. Someone told me to change to a new needle. I haven't tried it yet so don't know if it helps.

How funny. looks like gaigai and I posted at the same time. saying the same thing- Jinx.
:lol:

Use the scrap of fabric at the beginning of the chain. Place the needle in the middle of that fabric and sew to the edge. Have your piece ready to be picked up within the next couple of stitches. This way the feed dogs are still feeding the scrap all the way to the back while picking up the new fabric to start. I too was frustrated by this on my machine. I didn't have a single hole plate, just a zig-zag hole. It does eat up the fabric. When you're done with that chain, snip the scrap off and use it to start the next one. You can use it until it is completely full of threads. It's good to have a couple of these handy because they can seem to get away from you.

Do you mean you lift the foot each time you add a triangle? I just keep sewing from one to the other without lifting the foot and haven't had any problems.

I agree with this. Only sew a couple of stitches to start the new piece, and it will just pull straight through without being sucked down the hole.

Thanks! I changed the needle and will try to do it without lifing the foot. . .

I don't have a straight-stitch throat plate, only the zig-zag one; I found that moving the needle to the far-right position helped stop it from dragging fabric down into the feed dogs. I had to mark a new 1/4" line with masking tape, but it works great and I doubt I'll bother getting a straight-stitch plate now.

Use the single hole throat plate.

Use 'leaders' or 'spiders' or small pieces of material to start at the beginning of sewing ... holding the threads firmly to the back of your work.

I also do not sew together triangles but use the square method where I chain piece 1/4" away from the center diagonal line on both sides of the line ... using squares @ least 7/8" bigger that the finished HST. If I know I might make a mistake, then I start with squares 1" bigger and trim down using my Martingale bias square ruler.

These are the biggest helps for me.

ali

That's what I was going to suggest. Makes all the difference in the world. :thumbup:

Takes me a bit more time but i use the needle up and down button when I start a new one just enough to get past the point. (new needle already in and no other throat plate for machine) Just improvising to make what I have work.
Everyone elses suggestions seem much smarter than mine :) Just though I'd add my 2 cents.

Put enough of your triangle under there to give the feed dogs something to pull on.

Bits of paper help bridge from one piece of fabric to another.

All the good suggestions are here but some machines are just prone to drag the fabric into the feed plate. My Janome 6500 loves to do this even with the single needle plate while my old Singer 201 never does.

I am a beginner and had my first class and the instructor taught us to do this. It works very well

This may sound too simple, but is your needle sharp? I'd put a new one in and see if that helps.

I also use a small piece of paper or stablizer, just scraps. Works well.

Use a leader waste piece and purchase a single hole plate.

Be sure to have a very small space (a stitch or two spacing) between each piece of your chain.

first don't cut them into triangle yet. cut squares first then draw diagonally / once, right sides together and sew 1/4" down both sides then cut on drawn line and press open. if squared up it is to be a 2 1/2 inches the cut both fabrics into 2 7/8". you get 2 1/2 square triangles. hold your thread as you begin. learned the hard way, and ripped a bunch up.

This is what I do too and my fabric never gets caught in the feed dogs. It was a tip I saw on the Fons & Porter TV show. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Depends on your machine, but try this: DON'T lift the foot between triangles. When you get to the end of one seam, simply stop, and just poke the beginning of the next triangle seam as close to the needle as you can, and sew that one, and the next and next.... You can use a bodkin or wooden skewer to slide it into place.
Just be sure the ends of the seams match up.
If you pin, put them at least an inch in from the ends.
Curiously, the points sew easy this way!

Depends on your machine, but try this: DON'T lift the foot between triangles. When you get to the end of one seam, simply stop, and just poke the beginning of the next triangle seam as close to the needle as you can, and sew that one, and the next and next.... You can use a bodkin or wooden skewer to slide it into place.
Just be sure the ends of the seams match up.
If you pin, put them at least an inch in from the ends.
Curiously, the points sew easy this way!

I saw this suggestion in a discussion on this site a few months ago, so I bought one for my Pfaff and I can't believe what a difference it made. Worth every $$ I spent!
Just remember to remove it before you try to use a decorative or ziz-zag stitch.

I always use a header & ender when sewing anything. The ender peace ends up as the header for the next thing I sew. For the headers, I use either two 2" squares or the triangles cut off other projects. Once you get lots of these sewn together, you can make a whole new project out of them. Saves on fabric & thread.

This is what I do too -- I don't like the single hole plate since I want a scant 1/4" so I just use "sew on - sew offs" (also called "leaders and enders")

you use leaders and enders. just scraps of fabrics put under the needle first to lead off. then when reaching the end of your chain piecing, you ad an "ender" for the next time you want to start another chain.
and yes a single hole plate helps but i don't have one.

be sure you are using a new needle too.

You can find them online. The maker will sell parts , but sometimes higher/lower else where.

In addition to all of the other good advice you have received consider this: if a single needle hole plate is not available or too pricey, just put a couple layers of Scotch Tape over the zig zag opening (not the feed dogs!) and pierce it just once with an unthreaded needle then sew away...no problems anymore. That way you can continue sewing those pieces that you have cut already and then use the other method many others have suggested. Good Luck and Happy Quilting!

Sometimes when I chain sew and don't lift the foot it pushes the fabric off a bit at the start, and I end up with my squares not matching at the end. I then reduce the pressure and that seems to help. Some fabrics are lighter than others and the pressure is too heavy on them and they seem to drag for me. I also find that starching a bit helps.

Use the straight stitch throat plate and a new needle and I think your problems will go away. I just feed the next piece under the foot about 1 stitch away from the last piece. Then put your seam ripper in a hole of a spool and cut down between the pieces when ready to separate. If your seam ripper wont fit get one of the cheapies to leave in the spool. Great timesaver!:)

Brilliant!

Check out Quiltville.com. Bonnie Hunter's "leaders & enders" uses in quilts. Very worth the time to view.

I have found that if I lay the triangle ahead about 2 stitches, back stitch 2 stitches and then forward that it will not bunch up. I am making a fractured jewel quilt that has lots of hst and it seems to be working for me.

Yes, I love her site. Cut scraps into 2" squares (or other sizes) and sew a dark and light together as leaders & enders.