How Do You Bind?
 

Personally, I think whoever came up with the concept of binding had a sick mind. I know there are other ways of finishing a quilt and those work OK for smaller projects but not the bigger ones.

How do you bind your quilt? Do you machine bind it or hand bind it? After cross-stitching for over 20 years, I swore I’d never hand sew again but after yet another less-than-perfect quilt binding by machine, I’m giving serious consideration to doing it by hand. Yeecht.

I bind my quilts by machine. I enjoy hand work and find it very relaxing to sit and watch tv and sew the bindings to the back by hand.

Depends on the quilt. If I need to finish in a hurry I bind with the "faux flange" method. I machine sew it to the back then flip it to the front, glue in place with elmers washable school glue then SITD along the faux flange. But if I am not in a hurry I machine stitch to the front flip the binding to the back and hand sew it. I like both methods and I don't mind the hand sewing at all.

Here is a tute to the faux flange method.https://www.quiltingboard.com/tutori...ge-t77821.html The only thing I do different is cut my strips at 1.25 and 1.5 to end up with 2.25 wide binding strip. I also press it to the "flange" fabric to fill it up so it give the appearance of piping rather than a flange. I also use monofilament thread when doing the top stitch so it doesn't show at all. Here is a close up pic on this thread: https://www.quiltingboard.com/pictur...g-t275921.html

I am not the best at my hand skills and it takes me forever, but I hand sew the binding on the back. I put it on the front by machine. I use pins, no glue. Mitered corners, "invisible" final seam.

I almost always make French fold continuous loop bias binding. I typically cut a bit wider than most people, at 3". For the last few months I've been trying not folding and pressing my binding first as recommended in a thread here. I don't really see any difference in the fold or not, but as I said, my binding tends to be a little wider and I often use a puffier batt than many people.

I tried putting on the binding with the machine both sides and just didn't like the finish and/or just never learned to do it well.

I sew the binding down then hand stitch to the back, I take my time and sew a few hours in the evening till it’s all done. I don’t mind it, but it’s not my favorite part of quilting!

That is stunning! You should be extremely proud.

Yep, that's my problem, too. I can get the binding sewn on the back with a Perfect 1/4" seam but when I turn it to the front and start stitching it down, it somehow is no longer perfect. I just don't understand it.

I do it both ways. I don't mind hand sewing the binding if the quilt calls for it. I usually sew onto the back by machine, flip over and sew the binding down on the front. Comes out pretty good. I saw a tutorial with Donna Jordan of Jordan fabrics and she cuts her strips 2.5 inches, sews on the front with a 1/4 inch seam, flips over, sews from the front in the ditch formed by the binding, and says it is wide enough to catch on the back. I'm going to try it. It's just for me, a table topper, so if it doesn't work, I'll know for next time.

I do all three--baby and charity quilts binding is machine sewn to the back and machine stitched down on the front. Some quilts just look better with a flange style binding and I will stitch it down using a thread matching the flange. I have actually started cutting some of my bindings at 2 inches wide. I noticed that my Pfaff seems to sew quite a scant 1/4 inch seam and the 2 inch binding looks very neat when hand stitched to the back.

It really comes down to what you are most comfortable doing. Quilting is supposed to be fun. Having said that--I have a king sized quilt that needs the hand sewing finished but it is dark on dark with dark thread and I am having trouble seeing it except in natural light in the late afternoon. It is taking forever but it will look right!

I machine sew it to the front and hand sew on the back. I've tried it other ways, but hand sewing looks the best for me. I don't mind the time it takes.

I cut my binding 2 1/4" cold in half and machine stitch to the back. Cold to the front and machine stitch usually with a decorative stitch. Have used the flange method that looks nice for a different look.

I sew my bindings on by machine, both sides. Like quilting it takes practice.

Mostly, I attach with the machine then stitch by hand.
Then I turn something mindless on the TV or listen to some good tunes,
and the stitches fly by with the time!

Sometimes, I do a flange binding, totally by machine.



Though ..... does anyone have the technique to do the flange the other way???
What I'd really like to do is a flange stitched by machine to the front,
then hand stitched to the back.

Anyone who can give me that how-to, will be a true hero!!! :)

I used to do it Donna Jordan's way, but it required so much pinning, all the way around. That took so much time! So now I have gotten pretty fast at sewing it on the back, folding to the front, and top stitching very close to the edge. It saves so much time and looks fine to me.

Libits, What happens when the binding "is no longer perfect" for you? Is there too much binding on one side of the fold? Are there troubles at the corner folds?

Try stitching the binding onto the quilt using a 3/8 " seam allowance for 2 1/2 inch binding. Stop stitching 3/8 inch before the corner so you still have the 45 degree angle.

I stitch the binding onto the back and bring to the front. Binding is completed with machine and no hand stitching.

I’ve done it several ways but am most satisfied with results when I sew to front, hand bind to the back.

There are at least three kinds of quilts to me. They each have a different type binding treatment. The ones that will be drug around and abused, the middle type that it doesn't matter if it is machine sewn on both sides, and the this is my masterpiece or for show quilts that require hand sewing to the back. If you think about it, some quilts aren't as critical to have everything perfect as others. Now that isn't to say it is sloppy work ever. But, I value my time while sewing and don't do as much hand sewing on the binding as I used to. Whichever one you use, make SURE it is squared up before starting the binding. It will make for a lovely finish and make your life easier while binding.
There is a lady who shows how to perfectly sew on binding by machine on U Tube. You could go and check her video out.

Generally I machine sew (2.5") to front and hand stitch to back. But if more hurried I'll do like Feline Fanatic and use a faux flange (thanks for tip of using Monopoly, I've been matching the flange but the invisible thread makes much more sense). If it's a kid quilt I will sometimes machine stitch to back, bring to front and use a decorative stitch on front.

no more hand sewing for me. My hands don't work that way the older I get So I sew to the back first by machine and then pick a fancy stitch on my machine and sew it down to the front. Works for me. My quilts are given to family and friends to be used and they don't really care which way I do it

QuiltE if you want the flange strip on the front and hand stitch to the back, I think you would need about a 5/8 inch flange colour strip and whatever width you need to make up your regular binding width (plus 1/2inch?? not sure about that part) Time to pull out some scraps and play around.

Exactly what I have been thinking ... I need to do some play, to "invent" ...
... but that's never as much fun as going for the real thing! :)

Some fancy mug rugs will probably be made as prototypes!

I machine stitch to the front and hand stitch to the back and have gotten complimentary comments from judges on my binding. Here are some hints. 1) Make sure Quilt corners are square before stitching binding to the front. 2) There should be the same amount of binding on the front and back. When planning to use a 1/4” seam I cut my binding 2 1/4” wide instead of 2 1/2”. 3) If my fabrics and batting are thinner. I will leave an extra 1/8 to 1/4 of batting extending beyond the quilt edge. Judges want the binding to be “full” and I am told a full binding will last longer. 4) I use the metal hair type clips to turn hold the binding for stitching. I have more than enough clips to hold one side of a king size quilt. Starting away from a corner, have the back side of the quilt toward you. I like to do everything from here on while sitting in recliner. Bring the binding to the back and clip in place every 8” working clockwise. The fold of binding should just cover the stitching line. If you have left extra and it is too difficult to get it all to fit you may need to trim a little. The miter on the back of the quilt should fold the opposite of the front. Trim a little at a time on the diagonal at the corner until it all lays nicely. Cut too much and you could have a problem. I like to put a clip diagonally over the corner to hold it in place until I am ready to stitch. 5) To hand sew I like to use silk thread as it does not tangle as easily and a short 1” needle. I always use a thimble (Grandma made me learn that way.) Use a quilters knot for end of the thread. I usually go around the needle 10 times. To keep the thread from pulling thru the needle you can use this same knot on short end of the thread but only go around needle 2 times. 6) Place the bulk of the quilt away from you and the binding edge close to you. If you are right handed stitch around the binding clockwise. 7) I like to take very small 1/8” ladder stitches you may prefer yours longer. Anchor your knot in the selvage and bring your thread up just outside the stitching line. I brush the thread over the quilt so I can tell where the thread came out of the fabric, using my left thumb I hold the binding over the edge with the fold just past the stitching line. Then insert the needle into the fold of the binding exactly where the thread you brushed up onto the quilt lies. Slide the needle in for your desired stitch length. Pull up thread. Then brush the thread towards the binding putting it under your left thumb. This will indicate exactly where needle should enter the back of the quilt. Slide it under backing the same distance you did in the binding. 8) When you come to the corners after securing edge use the same method to stitch up the diagonal to the point, slide needle to the front, stitch down the front diagonal and then press needle thru the quilt to the edge of the binding on back and continue. MY SECRET WEAPON: I’m getting old and eyes aren’t what they used to be...CraftOptics binocular glasses with light allow me to keep the quality of my hand stitching high. To me this method, a recliner and Netflix videos are the most perfect and relaxing ways to finish a quilt.

I may be wrong but I think the only method not mentioned so far is using the backing fabric as the binding. If the backing looks ok on the front I use this method as it does not involve having to cut or attach a binding strip.

This is the way I like to do it -

https://newquilters.com/how-to-bind-...acking-fabric/

I don’t use glue - but that’s just a personal preference.

I once reversed this method. The quilt had a wide border - too wide for my liking - so rather than cut some off I used the excess it as the binding.

I machine stitch to the front, fold over and hand stitch to the back., I've never been happy with the way it looks to machine stitch both sides. For me doing that turns a beautifully made quilt into something from a store.

I do something similar, but if it not a special quilt I usually use zig zag, it looks cute.

That is a beautiful quilt!!!!

I use 2 fabrics to do my binding- the front binding goes with the front color, theme, etc. and the back is a piece from the backing fabric. I sew the binding to the front and hand stitch to the back. It's a couple of extra steps to do this way but I like the finish.

Too many years spent apparel sewing and hand sewing hems on little girls dresses, so my feeling is "Sewing machines were created for a reason, so we should use them.":D And my hands just can't do all that hand sewing so I machine sew to the back and machine sew to the front. I have done it enough that I have it down to a science and can do a very nice corner miter and nice miter to connect the 2 ends. I want all my quilts to withstand the test of time so the machine handles whatever I throw at it. I haven't heard a complaint yet when I have gifted a quilt with a machine sewn binding.

Quilts that are going to be used/washed a lot get machine bound by sewing to the back and then bringing the 2 1/4" binding around to the front and sewing it down. It really is a learned skill and once you've got it, it is a real time saver and looks nice.

Quilts that are for gifts or shows, I hand sew on the back.

I'll have to try the flange binding again... The one time I tried it the corners came out badly.

Watson

I prefer 2 1/2” binding sewn down on the front by machine and hand stitched on the back. I have been trying the flange method on some small quilts. I like the look but need a bit more practice.

Most of the time, I sew the binding onto the front, then turn it to the back and stitch in the ditch from the front.

But I don't trim the quilt perfectly until the binding is sewn on. That way I can see to save my points when needed. After the binding is sewn on, then I trim the back and batt at exactly 3/8 of an inch from the sewing line. I use a 12 inch ruler and rotary cutter to make short cuts at the correct distance. (Watch out for the corners. Don't cut that fold in the binding as you turned the corner.) With a little extra batt there, you can get a full binding. I only pin it at the corners.

This method works well for straight​ cut binding. I wouldn't try it with bias binding.

I have all kinds of misery when binding. I use a 2.5” strip, sew it Very carefully to the back with exactly a ¼” seam and then turn it to the front. Now this might seem crazy but binding stresses me out so much that I realized I was being way too aggressive when pulling it to the front which gave me about ¼” of binding on the back and way too much on the front. I tried to not wrap it around too tightly and this last time it worked better but I’m still not happy. As you can see from the pix below, when I flip it over, it’s inconsistent. I don’t understand what little gremlin is hiding in there that makes it wider going from back to front. It’s not that far! On the back I’m never consistent with it being on or off the fabric and gave up all hope on that long ago.

I think you have a brilliant idea of making the seam on the back larger than ¼” although I don’t have the accuracy (yet) of working in 8ths but I could do a ½.

Incredibly, I have no problems with the mitered corners. Go figure.

The dark brown fabric in the pictures I used for contrast because my countertops are light colored and you couldn’t see the binding very good.

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I use 2-1/2 inch strips, folded in half, ironed, and use a 1/4" foot to attach the binding strips to the "back" of the quilt. I then turn the strips over, press once again, lightly on the front before stitching. The fold of the binding should be placed very slightly over the 1/4" inch seam line and stitched. I like using a short/narrow zig-zag stitch which catches both the front and the back edges. You can also use a straight stitch or a decorative stitch. Takes a little practice, but the main thing to remember is the placement of the fold of the binding on the stitch line.

In this case you have to do a true flange application or piping. With both flange and piped bindings, you have to make them and sew them on separately so you can do your mitered corners in the binding. I use my invisible zipper foot for doing the piping and it works the bomb! The piping and flanges are not mitered. I have only incorporated a flange in the body of the quilt but have done piped bindings a few times. They can be very fussy but look spectacular when done and well worth the extra effort.

This is exactly how I do it too. I love hand sewing.

I now do all of my quilts, all the time, with this flange binding. It is sew easy to do, and it looks great. I will never hand sew a binding on another quilt. I love the flange binding.

Thanks FelineFanatic ... I have done it that way with a flange, and found that the flange seemed to pucker some (yes, I am finicky about it). Have never done it with a true piping. Maybe I should give that one a try sometime.

What did you use for your "cording" in the piping? I remember way back in 4-H days (so that's like a 100 yrs ago! :)) that we had to get a cord then boil it to shrink before making the piping. Otherwise, what a mess when it shrunk when things were laundered. But for a quilt, we would want something softer than a hard cording. your suggestions?

I basically do this with my french fold bias binding. I never trim until after the binding is on the front of the quilt. Since I cut my binding at 3", I line up my half-inch mark on my seam line and then trim. Gives me a nice full binding and I never ever miss catching my back into the binding, as seems to often happen to those I know who trim first.

I think the trimming first is a viable method with thinner warm & natural type batts. Would never do it on a fluffy one.

I was recently introduced to very wide binding. I love it. It is much easier to machine sew it too. I make straight binding the usual way no matter how wide I choose so it still is double folded fabric. The miters fall in place like magic. For wide binding you adjust the border width or add border to be covered by the binding to the non border quilts. Here is one quilt with wide binding I made: [ATTACH=CONFIG]614836[/ATTACH]