I tend to let the quilt dictate the width of the binding, but, usually I make mine 2 1/2". Since I do not make quilts to enter in shows or as heirloom (although I would like to think they are treasures!), I prefer to machine stitch my binding instead of hand sewing. I know there are many out there gasping at the thought! I attach the binding to the back, bring it around to the front and then use a decorative stitch to attach it. My favorite is a stitch that is wavy with a little leaf on it. This not only looks pretty, but if the stitch 'wanders' on the back a bit, it looks intentional. As far as the color, again, your top should let you know what it needs. Does it want something to blend in? or frame? I just finished a kaleidoscope with lots of white and the border needed something. I took all the scraps of color and creating a binding - perfect touch at the edge. Another favorite is a tiny stripe cut on the bias - makes an interesting but subtle edging. Even big prints cut in strips can be very nice. Remember - your quilt - your rules!

I used to vary width based on the project but now I cut them all 2.5"

Are you wanting some good instructions to follow? I like the teaching style of Crafty Gemini on youtube. She has a video on how to measure, cut, sew, turn corners and finish it in a way that I found easy to understand.

Yes it is good to have the binding full. Not because judges want it, but for looks and wear ability. As to size. To achieve a good looking binding there is a relationship between the width you cut the binding and the seam allowance. The wider the seam the wider the binding. Most everyone assums the standard seam is 1/4”. In most cases this works if the binding is cut at about 2 1/4”. If binding is cut at 2 1/2 then the seam may require a little wider, say 3/8”. 3” cut then 1/2”. Etc. this is if you want a good consistently filled binding. Everyone adjusts to what is comfortable and achieves good results. Consistent width of the seam is important. I find that if I don’t maintain good control when sewing the binding the pressure foot will slip and the seam won’t stay consistent. Consistency as you near the corner helps make a good miter as well as the beginning of the next side.

This video doesn't show pressing the seams open in the strips. That's necessary to spread the bulk. Also, the ends of the binding strip can be sewn together. Jenny Doan shows how in her Block magazine, but I make it just a little bit easier by pressing a triangle into the first end of the binding. This shows where to cut off the end and also where to sew the seam to join the beginning and end of the binding strip. Works slick !

I, too, use 2 1/2". I think the material is easier to work with than the 2 1/4". Also, watch some YouTube tutorials on binding. I recommend Jenny Doan's binding tutorials. She is from Missouri Star Quilt and her instructions and methods are simple and always comes out great. Good luck.

I cut my binding 2 1/2 inches and fold in half. I always sew my bindings on completely by machine and the first step is to square up the quilt. I then sew the binding on the back 1/3 of the 1 1/4 folded binding. I then iron the binding away from the quilt so that one third is going up and then one third of the binding comes down to the front. I then sew the binding down on the front so it looks good and you can cover any visible sewing lines. I also try to bind in the same fabric as the back, that way when I sew on the binding with my coordinated thread it should just blend into the fabric. When I make a small wall hanging or table runner I will cut my binding 2 1/4 inches.

I cut my binding to 2 1/2" wide also. I've heard that some folks use their serger on the quilt edge. If you do this, do you serger the quilt edge before you sew the binding to the quilt or do you serge it after the binding is sewn to the quilt? How do you handle the miters for the corners? I'm just trying to figure it out! Thanks!