I really am not dumb but...........
 

What is the difference between a 1/4" inch and a scant 1/4" seam? And where would I get such a presser foot for my husqvarna?

No doubt several others will weigh in on this one.
For me, the difference is a "thread's width". :eek:
Don't understand why patterns aren't made using a true 1/4".

i would try sew classic maybe they can help...:)

The 1/4 or scant 1/4 is not that important. Every machine and every person sews differently. When do sew the block, check the size of each component of that block after you stitch. Is it coming out the size they want it to be? example: If you stitch tree strips together and each one is cut 2 1/2 inches wide, check the center strip. Is it really 2 inches wide now? If it is larger, you need to increase the width of your seam allowance. If the center strip is smaller, you will have to narrow your seam allowance. The outside strips should measure 2 1/4 inch each. Then you could cut the three strip piece in 6 1/2 inch pieces, for a block to finish 6 inch. Hope you know what I am trying to say. It is easier to show someone. Good luck!

great explanation, Freddie :thumbup:

My first teacher drilled into me the 'scant 1/4 inch'. I can get it perfect if I use the Featherweight, that machine does it without me. The regular 1/4 inch is just that, it can be measured 1/4 inch if you take the ruler to it. But the scant 1/4 is less, noticable to me and to you. It is not an 1/8 for sure, but definitely not a 1/4 inch. This is my best definition: do not sew 1/4 inch but more than 1/8th.

for "scant" I run my foot just off the edge of the fabric...

I just move my needle over one click or yes run the foot just over the edge......I know that I tend to over sew my seams, meaning my seams are over a 1/4", so my pieces and then my blocks are too small....so I really concentrate on sewing a scant 1/4" which is yes between 1/8 and a 1/4". I have found I would prefer my blocks a little big and have to trim down to having them too small and having to rip out seams......This is especially true with points, for them to Really look good, then need to be dead-on....

There are so many OTHER variables to consider besides the seam width.

When I cut my strips, for example, they are actually about 2 -17/32 wide instead of 1-16/32 inches wide. Ruler placement on the fabric can affect how wide the strips are.

I get 'a bit bigger' when I go around a template. If my template is 4 x 4, and I cut around four sides of it, my piece will probably be close to 4-1/16 x 4-1/16. So if I use a 'regular' quarter inch seam, I'm okay.

I haven't checked the actual width of the strips using the June Tailor shape cutter, so I don't know how they come out.

So a good place to start with 'where is the problem?' is with the actual width of the component (strip, square, whatever)

If you use pre-cuts, they are probably 2.5 inches instead of a 'bit' more.

Some fabrics are bulkier than others.

Some threads are bulkier than others.

So there is MORE than just the seam width to consider when trying for a certain sized finished block/unit.

The 'sewing test strips' is really worth the time and effort!

You know how some people think that if one glass of wine is good, two will be better?
I think some people think that if a 'true' 1/4 inch seam is good, a 5/16 inch seam will be better.

The difference - to me - is about 1/64th of an inch. (or as some said, one or two threads)

Bah! Any pattern that mentions a scant 1/4 is banished from my life. Since that measurement can't be defined it is worthless.

I also don't fret if I can't exactly meet the given dimensions of a pattern. For the most part (I said MOST not all) it just doesn't matter.

I can't imagine my grandmother sitting at her treadle worrying if she is sewing a scant 1/4" - or a precise 1/4" either and she produced some amazing quilts!

This is a hobby to be enjoyed, not to get tangled up in stuff that gives people stress.

I solved a lot of my 1/4" problems by using a thin thread for piecing. I learned that 50wt 3 ply is too thick for piecing when the seam is pressed to one side. I use 50wt 2 ply like Aurifil for the top, with a size 80/12 topstitch needle. For the bobbin I use size 60 or 70 poly. Most thin threads will be poly as it is stronger then cotton. 50wt 3 ply is great for machine quilting for the stitches to show.

a scant 1/4" is a couple of threads over.
I don't think there's a specific foot for it on any machine
On my Jem Platinum I can set the stitch for a scant 1/4" - which is one of the reasons I bought it (plus it has a needle down function).
Do what LindaR said.

The difference is not much. But it adds up. You can get a couple of tools to help with the scant seam allowance from Marci Baker.

This tool, http://shop.online-quilting.com/shop...&category_id=2 will help you find the scant quarter on your machine.

This tool, http://shop.online-quilting.com/shop...&category_id=2 will mark that edge so you know where it is.

I sew with 1/4" seams, unless I'm making a HST (which will then be trimmed to size, if needed).

I agree with sewmary. I just don't pay attention to "scant".

As long as we are consistant, I think if we are making blocks for ourselves it isn't important as long as the finished pattern looks good.
If we are making blocks for an exchange we have to be a little more dilligent so everyone's blocks fit together.

Here's the thing. Patterns are actually created using perfect 1/4" seams. For example, a finished 9-patch block made with 3" squares means the finished block will measure exactly 9" square. Each patch gets an exact 1/4" seam added to it. So, patterns are made with exact measurements.

The problem is that the thread you use to sew a seam, plus the little bit of fabric that is in the roll of the seam when you press it, eat up tiny bits of that perfect 1/4" seam. If you sew perfect 1/4" seams for that 9-patch block, meaning your needle enters the fabric exactly 1/4" from the edge of the pieces, you will end up with a finished block that measures something less than a perfect 9". This is because the thread used to sew the seams, and even more the "turn of the cloth" from each seam being ironed, both eat up a little bit of that perfect 1/4".

This does not matter if you are sewing only strips or squares, and it does not matter much if the blocks are simple blocks. With many blocks, such as rail fence, you simply cut your blocks so they end up square. Where you start to run into trouble is with triangles, complicated blocks, and blocks with many pieces. Those slight differences in the finished measurements start adding up, and can create impossible matching conditions.

What's important is to test your seam allowances. The test is not how scant you sew, but rather how accurate the *finished* piece is. The usual way to test is to sew three 2.5" strips together, press, then measure. If your seam is correct, the width should measure exactly 6.5". If it's smaller than that, you need to make your seam allowance smaller. If the width is bigger than that, you need to make your seam allowance bigger.

The importance is in the finished measurements, not on how exact or scant your seam allowance is!

Edit: Just want to add that you don't even have to bother with measuring for simple patterns, such as rail fence. All that is important for those simpler patterns is consistency with whatever seam allowance you use. Achieving consistency is the topic for another thread!

For those who say that the seam doesn't matter: As long as your blocks don't have to be a certain size and as long as there are no points along the outer edges you may be correct. Many blocks don't matter.

Having participated in some swaps where size mattered the regular seam on some blocks did not give me the finished size. So I use the scant 1/4" to make the size work. Also when a block has HSTs, it may require less than a standard seam so you don't cut the points off.

I've sewn many star blocks, with points along the outer edges, using an exact 1/4" seam. Points end up right where they're supposed to be, 1/4" from the raw edge (stitching line). Maybe the "trick" is in pressing, correctly.

You've already gotten wonderful explanations of the difference between 'true' and 'scant'. To your second question, on my Viking, the setting for the needle to the extreme right position and using the 'A' foot will generally give you the 'scant' measurement - IF you are really careful in keeping your fabric lined up with the edge of the foot. Otherwise, you get more of a 'true' 1/4". HTH.

Viking does sell a foot with red lines for the scant 1/4" It is new I was told. I did buy it but holy cow are the feet for these new machines expensive!

I always use 1/4" seams and the consistency of the seams is what counts to me. You could also press the seams open and you wouldn't be adding or taking away for the thick seam allowances.

I have had several teachers say they do not agree with the "scant" philosophy. I check to be sure my 1/4 inch is exact and sew my quilts. We collect vintage machines and I like to sew on all of them. When using different machines on one project it's important to make sure the stitch width is exactly the same on all of them. Much easier to do with a "true" 1/4" seam.

Thank you all, so much information....such wonderful explanations.

i think it allows for the folding of the seams when you press. each time you press, you are taking a tiny bit away from the original seam.

My life and quilts became a lot happier when I decided not to use any patterns that wanted a "scant 1/4" seam":)

I have two feet for my Viking that are 1/4 inch with the guide bar. One is a two 1/4 inch with a single needle hole. I can move the needle slightly to get the scant and still miss the foot through the single hole. The other is technically a edge stitching foot . It has the guide on the side , but a wider needle opening so I can move the needle to more positions . By far I use the edge foot more than any other foot I have. The edge foot does have a marking for the 1/4 inch so you don't have to figure it out each time.

:) :) I'm with you 100% :) :)

I love your 'Bah!' :D I've obviously been living under a rock - I'd never heard of 'scant' before :shock:
However, as I've never done one, I'm assuming I'm doing OK with my 1/4" foot. You certainly can't tell from a passing plane ;)

In a nut shell, tell the person who is selling you the presser foot that you are a quilter and you need the appropriate presser foot for 1/4" for piecing/quilting purposes.

When I originally purchased my Emerald, the woman selling was not the Viking saleswoman and had no clue. I got home and made a few 'house' blocks and for some bizarre reason all the new ones I made with my (not cheap) new machine were all wonky. I got very frustrated, and was ready to return my machine, but called the store instead. I was directed to call another store as there I could speak to a Viking saleswoman and not someone who was just filling in and had no knowledge. Amazing what a difference it was speaking to a true quilter and saleswoman of the product. She also convinced me to buy the walking foot. At $30 I was hesitant, but am so glad I did and knowing now how easy it is to sew on 1/2 my binding with it, would spend a lot more for it! Good luck!

Oh, I'd also go with the presser foot that has the little silver guide to the right of it. Granted I lived, pieced and sewed without it for ~20 years, but LOVE, LOVE, LOVE it now! If you have any other questions, you can always pm me!!!

I find it easy to do the scant 1/4 inch seam. I just make sure I can't see the fabric peeking out from under the 1/4 inch presser foot. I taught my granddaughter to do the same, as we make quilts together, and I found she was making the seams quite a bit wider than mine. Now we both do it the same way, and our pieces fit together.

What I learned was 2 threads widths less than 1/4". At the time I was doing Lights in the Window and I did find that it made all the difference. I'd been having trouble getting everything to line up but once I tried the scant 1/4" it all just fell into place. I use it all the time. Teacher at the time said it allowed for turnings.

I agree. Unless you have points to worry about and or a particular finished size, I feel as long as you keep all your seams the same size who cares.

To my knowledge a scant 1/4" is one thread less than a full 1/4". Years ago when I took quilting classess thats how the teacher explained it to us.

I do exactly the same!! And, I love prewound bobbins.....polyester....they last forever!

I do not understand why someone grabbed this scant quarter inch and ran with it for years I have been using quarter
inch and never had a problem the quarter inch is very narrow and I do not want my quilts pulling apart by trying to go to narrow besides I learned to quilt the Mary Ellen Hopkins way which was ppm measurement ppm being personal private measurement and it is accuracy and consistancy that works I still use the quarter inch and have no trouble

Scant 1/4" seams drive me crazy. I sew everything with my 1/4" foot. The only exception is if I'm involved in a block exchange and they have asked me to use a scant 1/4", then I try my best. I just don't get the reasoning. As far as I know, there is no such thing as a scant 1/4" foot for any machine.

You are so right SewMary... something NOT to stress over and enjoy what we are making..

This routine scant 1/4" just seem ridiculous, to me. For years and years, quilters used 1/4" seams and as long as they made the seam properly, things turned out fine. Points were right where they should be, etc. Fact is, it doesn't really matter what size seam you use, as long as you cut your pieces exactly and sew your seams consistently. I can understand using it with HSTs, as it's easier to reduced the seam allowance, than to cut the block that fraction of a millimeter larger.

Perhaps, with the increased popularity of rotary cutters, some people have lost the skill to cut accurately.