I prefer hand binding but have found this method’s results acceptable. Get Acorn Precision Piecing Seam-align Glue from Amazon in starter kit from Amazon. You will also like the pressing product! I don’t like a lot of extra binding on back so I cut my binding 2 1/4”. Try a sample first to see what you like. There are videos on YouTube on using the glue. I use the dots of glue on the edge of the wrong side of the binding and carefully bring the other edge to meet it and press as in video. The two edges are held together so no stretching and are easy to work with. Stitch the binding to the right side of fabric. I use Sharon Schamber’s method for this but I use the Acorn glue instead. Check out her video. Press the binding away from your quilt with steam. Starting away from the corner put glue drops on edge of the quilt 4” or so at a time. Bring the binding over the glue and press with dry iron holding 8 seconds or so. After you have some done, from the right side insert pins along the seam line as you would with stitching in ditch in binding seam. Turn to back side to confirm pins are in the binding. Leave the pins and continue for the entire quilt. I stitch in the ditch on right side removing pins as I go. My Bernina has a foot for stitching in the ditch. It has a guide in the center of it the rides in the ditch. If I take my time My stitches are rarely on the binding and are satisfactorily close to the ditch for me. Hope this helps. I don’t use the Acorn glue for everything but love it for borders and binding. It goes a long way.

I do something very similar to this, but I use Elmer's washable school glue, it's always worked well for me. I'm able to glue the corners, so that they are mitered exactly. It takes a bit of getting used to, to find what works best for you. Glue is also great for curved edges, rather than pinning (I use Elmer's washable glue stick for this), and for sewing long strips like borders, instead of pinning...much easier to ease things in and avoid any stretching. I use Elmers for basting quilts, too--it changed my life.

I've always machine sewed the binding to the front, then turned it to the back then "stitched in the ditch from the front to attach to the back. Based upon several of the replies here, I tried reversing it on a quilt I was finishing yesterday - I sewed it onto the back first, then turned it to the front and machine sewed along the edge on the front. I don't like the way it turned out. I prefer the more "finished" look on the front, so on my next quilt, I'll go back my usual way of doing it.

I tried a flange binding on a wall quilt and it was an epic fail. I had trouble keeping in the ditch perfectly-probably compounded by the fact that my colors were very contrasty. And apparently I didn't get it folded over far enough because I could clearly see the stitching line under the flange. I ended up just blanket stitching on the flange itself to cover the stitching below. I don't have trouble with regular machine binding so I think I'll stick with what I know.

I have not used separate binding to finish a quilt. I make the top extend 1" or 1 1/2" farther than the batting and backing (actually, I trim backing). then I double fold to the back and sew with an automated stitch.