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Quote:

Originally Posted by annesthreads

Quote:

Originally Posted by DogHouseMom

What model Janome do you have? I have the 6600 and have no problem with the King Tut threads, or even Aurifil 28 wt!! I have also had no problem getting a heavier Connecting Threads Essential through the tension discs (but stopped using that thread because of all the fuzz it creates down in the needle and bobbin area!).

I suspect your discs might need to be cleaned. Perhaps you were using a thread with a lot of fluff, and the fluff is now embedded in the discs??

King Tut is a great thread, and IMO not too "thick" to get through the tension discs.

Mine's a Janome 4800. I've just had it serviced to check the tension discs, but this problem continues. Similarly, my "new" 201 had been thoroughly cleaned and serviced. I'm relieved to hear that the 6600 is OK with King Tut, as I'm hoping that one happy day, if I ever find the money, I'll have one of those!

The fact that you're having the same problem with two machines and one of them a 201 really says it's something you're doing or not doing. A 201 will sew with anything as long as the needle eye is big enough for it. King Tut is not a thick thread. All the King Tut I have is 40/3 which is barely thicker than a regular 50 piecing thread.

I use King Tut on my Janome quite a bit. I changed the needle to a 14 top stitch needle because the thread shredded whan I used a smaller sized needle, but I didn't have to mess with the tension. I've found that I have better results with the larger topstitch needle when I use black 40 weight cotton threads also.

I know you are saying it jams in the tension disks, but have you tried using a #14 top stitch needle with the larger eye and deeper groove? Have not experienced your problem on my Janome. Hope you find a solution.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ckcowl

and when choosing by weight- the higher the number the finer the thread---12 wt thread is like a string- very heavy/course---50 wt thread is quite fine---silk thread is often 60-100 wt.
the reason the numbers are how they are-is based on how many miles of thread it takes to get a pound---if it takes 20 miles of thread to = a pound--that is 20 wt thread---if it takes 40 miles to = a pound that is 40wt thread....ect.

WOW! I feel pretty stupid, because I've been sewing for over 40 yrs. and quilting for around 5 now and I didn't even know this about thread. Thanks for the info ckcowl. You learn something everytime you log onto this site! I love it.......

I had a question. Does anyone on here use Aurifil thread? I was just on Keepsake Quilting and they had a 10 pack of 50 wt. Wild Rose....gorgeous....for $40.00. Just wondering if that was a good deal?

Is your presser foot up or down when you are threading your machine?

I think it is the needle, not thread. Some have larger "eyes" and let thread pass through easier. (i.e., Topstitch vs Universal - has nothing to do with the needle #) I'm new to learning about this so can't give you specific advice. Try using a loop or magnifier to compare eyes.

i have a 1600 p janome on my long arm and when i bought it they said to use superior thread 50 weight. i have tried other but they are right that is the only thread that works just right for me.

Are you sure that it says Machine quilting thread on the spool, or just Quilting thread? I think that you may have been trying to use hand quilting thread in your machine and it will gunk up your tension discs. The only "quilting" thread that will not do this, to my knowledge, is the Mettler brand. Otherwise, I think you should just use plain thread when you are quilting by machine. Hope this helps.

When we first got our machine we purchased one spool of many different brands of thread and tried them. You just have to find the one your machine likes.

I was told once upon a time by a machine repairman that "my machine only likes ___" means "I don't know how to adjust my machine for __" It's just a machine and will use anything. The biggest problem is not having the right thread and needle combination.