In making the masks with the three pleats I sew the seam on the inside at 1/4 inch. then turn and pleat and sew 1/2 inch from edge so you are sewing thru fewer layers. I broke needles on my regular machine and may Serger doing the masks. I prefer to make the shaped masks as they stay on better and not so many layers.

Here's a picture of some of my early masks, I'm using the z-fold style plus the binding. You can see that wonderful striped fabric and how it helped me! (that's my favorite, I have two identical)

I second what Rhonda and others have said--bring that seam in about 1/4" so you are not sewing the seam allowances in the mix--should reduce the layers some. And on the pleated style I've found that if I don't overlap the pleats it sews so much better. I had to make 8 dozen "medical weight"--meaning 4 layers of fabric-and it was really rough on my machine--which is getting "spa" treatment but it takes so long these days!

Friend just posted a mask pattern from YouTube (not sure of name)that has the pleats in the front so that it stands off the mouth (not as hot and safer, too). It also looks like much less bulk at the edges too. Think I will try that for next round for family.

I was making the folded ones also for a while. I spent yesterday learning how to make the fitted ones from a free pattern on Craftpassion.com. I'll be making this kind from now on. I loved their pattern because I had requests from family for a nose wire and a filter. I purchased aluminum nose pieces from Amazon. An this pattern the filter pocket is the entire mask so, a blue paper type filter can completely be placed inside and this one can be used for a cover only. It works so good, I have quit making them in batiks and have started to use printed quilter's cotton. Batiks are just too hard to breathe thru this type of mask.

I have made several masks with the 3 pleats and I go very slow and lengthen my stitch. I will agree it is a bit hard to do. Good luck to you and maybe you could find an easier pattern that your machine will like better and it won't be so hard for you to secure the pleats in.

Thanks for the link. I spent some time looking at the site and mostly, it's associated site. It's delightful.
I'll make a seam jack today. and give it a shot.
bkay

Is it the 3D mask? They are surprising quick to make once you figure out the directions. My daughter likes hers.

This is why I was confused about the 12 layers. All the patterns I've used either have the pleats stacked next to each other, or the sides where the elastic/ties go through is the outer layer of fabric only.

I found this the easiest way to sew it too and it doesn't seem to affect the final product.

Try using a 90/14 Micro text sharp needle.