I am getting so frustrated!!! I made a satchel for my nephew and he wants a button and button hole (to use while he is in college). I have made a button hole before on a different bag, but I cant get it to work this time!!! I dont know why??? I have pulled out the machine manual have done all it says, but it still messes up. AND I AM MESSING UP HIS SATCHEL, in trying to figure this out!!! grrrrr.

has anyone made a button hole WITHOUT the button hole foot? If so, I would love for some instruction how to do it.

Thanks in advance.

Ohhh, I will be following this post! I avoid button holes at all cost. They have always been a monster for me. I would love to know the tips and tricks. Another thanks in advance.

dsb, no kidding. I am beginning to feel like that now! I went so easy on the other bag I made and now, poof, it just isnt getting it! So very frustratiing. It is a Christmas present for him and I so wanted it to look nice. But I am afraid I have messed it up :(

I guess I'm fortunate to have a machine that does buttonholes for me. I just tell it how big the button is, plug in the buttonhole foot, and off it goes.
It wouldn't hurt me to learn how to do it manually though. I'll be following this to learn as well.
Good luck!

Dawn, I do have a button hole foot. And it still isnt working correctly. That is why I am so upset about it now lol.....

The manuals for my vintage machines all show how to make 4-step buttonholes using the zig-zag stitch. Is there anything like that in your manual?

You mark your buttonhole with a straight line that's a hair longer than the measurement of the width of the button and sew a narrow, almost satin-stitch zig-zag along the right side of the line, then turn the fabric and sew down the other side. Make sure that you don't cover the line - you will need to get in between those rows with a cutter to open the buttonhole.

Widen the zig-zag width and shorten the stitch and sew bars across the top and bottom of these two rows. Put some Fray Check on the buttonhole and let it dry, then use a sharp scissors or seam ripper to slice a slot between the rows of narrow zig-zag.

heck, i used to make them by hand!!

I feel for you!!Nothing worse than trying it out, having it work, then on your project, nope! One thing I might suggest,,, look to see if a thicker seam or edge is causing the guide to stall. I have had this happen before when sewing on something thick. sometimes you have to change the direction of the button hole from horizontal to vertical, or the other way, depending on where the thickness is. Other than that, you can make them by hand, using a buttonhole stitch, but I've never done that except years ago. Before there was such a thing as a buttonhole maker. We had to learn that in home ec., my only time of doing it!!

What you need is the old standard buttonholer made by Singer. It has cams and makes many sizes of buttonholes absolutely perfect every time. You can also adjust the width for larger thicker buttons. I have the older black model low shank model (circa 1950) that came with my Featherweight. After being totally frustrated trying to make buttonholes for my purses on my expensive Janome (wouldn't take larger or thicker buttons) I found that my ancient old buttonholer would fit and work on my Janome 6500!!! All you have to do is pop in the right sized cam, attach it and drop the feed dogs. I now have perfect buttonholes every time. Singer buttonholers are often available in thrift stores or at estate sales for $5 - $10. The newer models are tan in an oval green plastic case while the high shank slant models come in a dark rosy pink case.

Would you recommend putting Fray Check on all buttonholes? I mean, even the ones that the machine stitches out itself? I've never done that before. Though, it does make sense.

DawnMarie, I even put Fray Check on the buttonholes in new garments that I buy - and on the threads holding the buttons on, too.

I second the nomination for the mechanical buttonholer - those take some fiddling around to get them set up, but once you've got them set, they crank out buttonholes just as fast as any one-step buttonhole setting on a modern machine.

And the buttonholes they make are just beautiful! I usually go around each one twice, unless I'm working on very fine fabrics. They're absolutely secure and they look like the ones you make by hand. :)

Greist made these buttonholers for low shank, slant shank and high shank machines. I don't remember ever seeing one for a super high shank, but they might exist, too.

Wendy ~ I have NOT made button holes without the button hole foot . . . . . BUT I have cussed up a storm while trying to do button holes on fleece. I was going through two layers of pretty fluffy fleece. I finally had to use some stabilizer (top and bottom) to get it to work.

What sewing machine do you use? What fabric are you using and how many layers.

Maybe one of us here has had your same experience.

When all else fails, try Velcro.

How about trying a bound buttonhole? That might be an easier solution now that you have tried the other kind.

I think the bound buttonholes are easier and look so much more professional.

would suggest you set up some scrap and do it on that till you get it straightened out.

I know the simplest thing can be overlooked very easy. Did you set your machine to do the buttonhole? Some machines you actually have to turn the dial to the buttonhole function. Is the zig-zag stitch selected and the correct length and width? Some machines you have to this manually.

What type of machine do you have, maybe that'll be the starting point for assistance.

Instead of fraycheck, I find that by fusing a lightweight interfacing under the top layer of where I'm putting the button hole helps a LOT. Both preventing fraying and making the fabric behave better while sewing the buttonhole.
It doesn't have to be a large piece - just bigger than the hole itself. It's also a great way to use up tiny pieces of the fusible interfacing.

Good verbal description! Also a good idea to practice on scraps similar to the "good" item.

If necessary, one can turn the item and only sew in "forward mode" if the reverse setting isn't working as well as one would like.

start with cleaning your machine (preferably with a nice cup of tea near by...then new needle...then a practice piece (you should ALWAYS make your first button hole on a practice piece ...NEVER on the finished item that way you make sure you have the size correct and all 'bugs' worked out before tackling your item. after having that cup of tea...or what ever your preference ;-) your machine will be all clean, new needle and ready to tackle your project...get the book back out and do it over, it will go so much better i promise :thumbup:
it is amazing the difference it makes to clean the bobbin area and put in a new needle!

This is exactly how I have always made button holes. I've never had a fancy machine with the attachment that just makes them for you. This will work just fine.

Wow thank you all for your responses! Sorry it took so long to get back with you all. My machine is Brother 6000 cs. I will attempt trying to do a mAnual button hole. I will let you know how it goes. I knew you all would have some Answers :)

On my machine I have to pull this thing down that is behind the needle and it catches on the foot when it's time to change directions. Do you have that and if so did you pull it down?

Gale, yes. I did do that as well. I will be sure to bVe the manual out again and start at the beginning in the morning. I'm not touching it again tonight lol

If he is going to use this daily, it won't be long before a buttonhole stretches out of shape and will no longer hold the button. You might opt for a cloth loop to fit over a button, it would probably be more substantial and functional longer. Just a thought.

mark the length of the buttonhole beginning and the end, make sure the length will be big enough for the button to go through. use a zigzaw stitch shorten stitches sew on one side then sew side by side next row. then lenghten stitch and bar tac on each end. Try on scrap first and cut hole and make sure your button will go through hole. then when you get it the right size. then do it one your project.

I think this is among Murphy's Laws. The practice buttonhole will be perfect but the one on the piece that really counts will be an absolute mess!

That's why I bought Viking sewing machines. They make the best buttonholes on the market, and easily!!! When I was a kid that was my job, to make the buttonholes BY HAND for everything my mother sewed. And that is why I want a machine that can make a good one! I can't help with directions, but I would say to make up a scrap with all the same components as the satchel and keep trying till you get it.

Do a narrow box with a tight zigzag. I've done that many times
m.

Oh yes, this is how I used to make em all the time... actually liked it 10 times better than doing them by hand, which is showing my age, I guess!

I have that same machine, so I can tell you that it should make decent buttonholes. I always forget to pull down that thingy (as someone else mentioned) near the needle that tells the buttonholer when to stop and go back on the other side of the buttonhole.

Also, when you do get that button hole made, here's something I learned the hard way. Before you take the seam ripper to cut the slit for the buttonhole, insert a pin across the buttonhole where you want your seam ripper to stop. This will prevent the seam ripper from ripping beyond the intended buttonhole. You don't even have to ask to know why I know this.

put a stabilizer under the back---will make all the difference---learned this while making clothes

If all else fails, do it the old fashioned way---------- Handstitch, using a small buttonhole stitch, around the entire thing. I made buttonholes this way for 40 years, then got my Janome that does them for me. Yeah

Do it by hand, it won't take long. Probably not as long as the time you have spent trying to do it by machine. Before I got my buttonhole maker in the little pink case in 1960 (that I sold for $5 in 2007), I use to make them by hand. Some materials are harder to work on than others and that may be your problem.

I've always used a buttonhole foot so I can't help you.

If you are pressed for time, and fearful of ruining your project you might want to contact your local dry cleaner. Many of them do tailoring and repairs, so they might be able to sew a buttonhole for you for a nominal price.
;-)

I do almost exactly the same thing, but I start and end the buttonhole with small bar tacks that span the overall width of it.

Try a bound buttonhole, IT WILL COVER UP ALL THE MESSES. Also it will look really neat! It can be done with an zipper foot, or a regular presser foot.

:-D

I used to make my button holes without an attachment. I use th zig zag stitch. First I measure my button, draw a line with
water erase marker, put a line on the ends, bar tack one end
use the small

sorry it jumped on me and sent before I finished. use the small tight zigzag stitch,go to the other end, bartack, turn and zigzag to the other end using you line as a guide
Hope this helps. It always worked for me. Good Luck

got your answer. My mother back in the day sewed wedding dresses. She sewed that tiny buttons and the buttons holes. she would make a line with colored chaulk and do tiny blanket stitches with regulat thread and after she was all done then she would snipe the hole. Thats How I remember her making them. Jean

I hate button holes. I did learn an easy way to put in zippers, but those darn button holes can make me swear. Zippers are good, especially when covered with a flap. When you have a lot of front, you don't want buttons with holes that stretch anyway.
I try to avoid them at all costs, even to making tops that pull over my head.