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I've tried printer paper, as well as tracing paper, and I find that tracing paper works best for me. I print the pattern on printer paper (so that I'll have a hardcopy for in the future) and lay the tracing paper over it. There is less paper waste that way.
It is also MUCH cheaper when you calculate all the paper you save in the long run. I bought an 18-inch wide, 50 yard (150 foot) long roll of white tracing paper on Amazon for $17.50 with free shipping on Amazon Prime. |
I use copy paper all the time, but never thought about the q-tip trick. What a great idea! I am working on a snail's trail now and I will be sure to try that when it comes time to de-paper my quilt! Thanks so much for sharing all of your wonderful ideas!
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I have used newspaper, need to iron it first to set the ink. also used onion skin have to trace the designs byt it tears okay too. On the newspaper I used 4inch blocks-- two plain--- two print-- put them diagonal on a 20 square piece of newspaper, then strip quilt around them to the edge. whatever print I used in the blocks was the print I used on the back. Made a ruffle out of the same and quilted in the ditch. More like a big comforter.
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Love your avatar
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Originally Posted by Pieces2
(Post 5480715)
I would not use newspaper because of the newsprint rubbing off on the fabric.
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For me carol Doak's paper is the best.
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I have managed to get a few blocks done and am quite happy with the results, the printer paper, is ripping well with the small stitching. I have so much printer paper, this is good to use some of it up. If I can figure how to put up a picture eventually, I will. Thanks again.
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I use the cheapest printer paper and the economy setting.
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Originally Posted by Musicmom2
(Post 5480633)
I'm fairly new to this, so forgive my ignorance. Can someone explain "paper piecing" to me? I get the comment above ".. printing a block on copy paper and stitching.." is that all there is to it? Seems it's more involved than that.
How I do mine. I print an extra copy. I flip all copies over to the reverse side. I cut out the parts on first copy (which is also flipped over) and roughly cut and stack my fabric from numbers 1 through 6, or however many there are. I place my fabric on the underside, pin long edges so they don't flip up and get caught, then sew from the printed side rather than tracing. You sew with short stitches in order to perforate paper for easier removal. Make sure you leave seam allowance over the lines. With each line I sew, I then turn the paper back on the fold and use ruler and cutter to trim excess seams. Then I put the paper back, set seam, then press the direction of the seam. |
I use it and get the cheapest copy paper I can find. The lighter the weight, the less lbs I think. If you have trouble ripping it off, just get a sponge or small paint brush and brush the seams with water. It will make the paper a little soggy and it comes right off.
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I buy the tablets of cheap Crayola kid's coloring paper, available at most discount stores. It's the weight of newspaper and kind of gray. It goes through the printer and rips away easily. I tried many other things but I always come back to this solution.
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Ive been using the little kids paper.. its softer and easier to take the paper off... its the old fashioned paper..
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I have used 20 lb copy paper, and when you go to take it off, damp the seam with a Q-tip, it tears much easier, but again you should hold the seam to start....
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I've been using plain printer paper & have no problems with it. I think it comes off pretty easily when you use a small stitch.
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I am using the printer paper on advice and it is working out wonderfully, with the small stitch, I fold the seam over and it tears easily. Thanks you guys for some wonderful advice, not only is my ever accumulation stash reserve getting smaller so is the box of printer paper I picked up at Costco because someone wanted it. Thanks
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i use the cheapest typing paper i can find . It works great for me and tears away so easy and i don't have to worry about my stitch length.
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