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Have you tried stitching from the center out? This will tend to push excess fabric towards the edge. Also, have you tried reducing the presser foot pressure?
As far as enough pins, you should not be able to put your fist on the quilt without touching a pin, so like 3-4 inches apart in all directions.

It is hard not to get pucker at intersecting lines. I kind of make a frame with my hands in my Machinger gloves as I go over those spots. I like Hobbs80/20 fusible quilt batt and lately I have been using the Elmer's washable glue. I always do the back fusing last making sure it is nice and flat. I give it a press with the iron to dry the glue also. It will look a little wrinkly on the front by doing the back last but since I can see the front while quilting, it works better for me.

You didn't say what kind of batting you are using. I have always used Hobbs 80/20. I make sure there is a pin every 4 inches (measure using my palm with fingers folded). There is also to consider that when you pin basted, you might have pulled the backing slightly too tight. If you have a LQS, I would pop in and see what advice they can give you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sailorwoman (Post 7562228)

Prism 99 You said that "for the top, multiple layers of spray starch may be used." I am assuming that you mean even after the top has been pieced. If so, do you press the top again after starching?

Yes, after the top has been pieced. If the top is ironed flat and placed on a sheet for the multiple layers of spray starch, you may not need to press again but you can certainly press again if you want to, or if the top needs it.

I may not be pinning enough. I should have said smooth top rather than taut. I'm using poly batting as it's way more economical for me, at less than a third of the price of cotton/poly blend. I also don't have a large area for basting to I either have to do it in sections on the floor, or use my bed (which makes keeping everything smooth a bit challenging). I just have a cheap sewing machine with a generic walking foot, so no doubt that's also part of my issue.

I know my inexperience is mostly the issue. It's reassuring to know I'm not alone in struggling with this.

For glue basting, do you daub or spray? I tried daubing, I'm wondering if diluting it a bit and spraying would give me better results in keeping anything from shifting on me.

Thanks for all the wonderful advice. I'm learning!...the hard way, but I am learning!

From my limited experience, two things made a world of difference:

Switching to a good walking foot (name brand)
Using a big table (my padded dining room table) to pin baste (my back and knees couldn't bear the floor method and the bed was too soft)

Polyester batting is NOT my favourite for FMQ. You cannot use an iron on it and it does shift more. It is not your skills but the polyester batt.

Since I began using basting spray, my quilting has become pucker-free. I do all my quilting on my domestic machine, mostly STD and straight-line. Here's a link to an old thread with lots of tips about building that important sandwich: http://www.quiltingboard.com/main-f1...d-t211941.html

If you search back into this board, your question about puckering has been asked lots and lots. Take heart, we all face them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NatalieF (Post 7562709)

Also my first suggestion to you is to slow down. IF I put the pedal to the metal.... who knows what the back will end up like.... BUT if the sandwich has been done correctly... and you slow down enough to allow the walking foot to do it's job properly.... you shouldn't get any pleats.

I tried to SITD on a quilt before I FMQ. I could tell I would have puckers if I FMQ so I left it alone which worked out because of the fabric and high loft.

Now I just baste with rolled up 2x4s like Sharon Schamber does and FMQ from the center out like Paper Princess said. That seems to work out much better for me.