I use the same method you do... starting 12"-14" from the end of the binding (leaving a tail not stitched) sew all the way around and stop about 12" from the first stitching. Overlap the ends and somewhere near the middle mark the center point on both "tails"...then cut one at the center point and the other 2 1/2" longer than that (or whatever the width of your binding is). Then make a diagonal seam to join, trim press and lay it flat (pin if you need to)...here is where I differ...I turn the quilt over and sew that last 12" with the binding on the BOTTOM! Little tip is "baggie on the bottom" (like "feet on the fold" when embroidering on a pillow case or on the binding with words, etc) baggie bottom allows the feed dogs to ease in any excess fabric, ends up perfectly smooth. This works on the serger as well, when joining two pieces that need to be eased sew larger piece on the bottom!

You know I think that might just work for me. I do know if you are piecing and one block is a tad bit bigger than the other, if you put the bigger block on the bottom it will ease in very nicely. Since I know this to be true I think the same principle would follow for the binding. I have a quilt ready for binding now so I am going to try your method. Thanks so much for sharing this "baggie on the bottom" tip.

I might try pinning down the quilt too if you're getting this significant of a pucker. I get a teensy pucker from the mild stretching that happens when you attach the binding to the front of the quilt - but usually it's so small that when I fold over the binding it's invisible and you cannot feel it so I don't worry about it. Somewhere the binding is stretching even if you don't realize it...I would suspect it's in an area where the weight of the quilt is pulling on the binding even though your hands are not. Maybe next time also take a moment to look at your surroundings and the table you're laying it on and the weight distribution of the quilt when you apply the binding. :) It's always the smallest thing that throws us off! :)

I think you might be stretching it a little bit as you sew. Even if it is a minute measurement to begin with, it will multiply over a longer seam. Just try to let the machine take up the material instead of pulling it into place. I really like the speedy methods that Jenny Doan has to make quilts. However, one has to be careful with the bias edges that are often associated with her methods as well. On the other hand, they can be very foregiving as well and allow you to fudge a bit if it is not quite right. Good luck with findin a solution.

I don't have this problem nor do I use my walking foot to attach the binding. I find this a very easy method to use; but since I like to be in control, I do not sew very fast.

I always use a walking foot to attach my binding and I never press or pin my binding. I just fold it as I go along and guide it along the edge of my quilt. I do stitch the edge of my quilt before hand using a 1/8+ seam. This holds the layers of my quilt stable. Sometimes I will use a bias binding and other times a straight of grain. I start with a 2.25" strip. The width of my walking foot is 3/8" so I use that as a guide rather than 1/4" seam. This means that I am stopping 3/8" at the corners to miter them. I use a different method to join the final ends in a miter. The method I use has leaving a tail at the starting and ending point and folding each tail back so that there is about 1/8" gap between the two folded ends. You cut at one fold and then use that cut piece the width of the binding (in my case 2.25") to measure from the other fold to cut the other tail off. You then bring one cut end perpendicular to the other and sew a miter. I know this sounds confusing but the bottom line is that my unsewn strips of binding after I cut them are a tad shorter to allow for the stretching that occurs when you join your miter. This works for me every time and I don't have puckers.

I don't know if I learned it from Jenny Doan but, when you have sewn down all but the final tail of the binding, overlap the tail the same amount as the width of your binding. EX, if your binding is 2 1/2 over lap the tail 2 1/2, if your binding is cut 2 1/4, overlap the tail 2 1/4, make sure you cut the tail that overlaps, it works for me every time, but I do check to make sure it fits before I sew it down.. There is a tut on Utube somewhere about sewing on binding.

remember that if you are sewing your seam at a 45 degree angle, you are dealing with a bias seam. I cut mine just a titch smaller than my measurement to factor this in. I also have had this problem and have found that the tuck is just in that layer of the binding. When I fold it over, the tuck gets hidden in the binding. Then I had trouble finding it again!

I have had that problem at times and have found that if I adjust the pressure on the foot, it seems to alleviate the problem....good luck....:)

When I overlap to measure the end, I sung it all up a bit, until there is a bit of a wrinkle in the quilt itself. It is much easier to stretch the quilt to fit the binding then fit on a too long binding to the quilt. Hope this makes sense.