I am in the no ironing the binding in half group and have been much happier since I started using this method. I do use the 2.5" binding width and I stitch the layers together on the edge of my quilt before I bind. I know it's an extra step, but it saves me ripping out when that sneaky bottom layer slips out of line. I use a long narrow zigzag stitch for the edge.

I do leave a tail at the beginning and end for joining, but apparently here I depart from the group, because I do NOT do the miter seam at this point. I do a simple straight seam and find it works great for me. It's much easier to measure accurately and I never have a problem with the bias or puckers.

[QUOTE=QuiltnNan;6719161]i have found this as well... but just recently. i think, in the future, i will cut the binding at the connection just a bit shorter.[/QUOTE


i have been cutting the binding top piece about 1/4 inch short, and quit having this problem, but I still don't understand why it happens. I found my solution and ignored the problem.

This is where elmer's school glue really comes in handy. Since I started using it my bindings no longer pucker. Before you start to stitch that seam lay it on the quilt where you want it to lay to see if it is too long if it is looking good glue it where it is and it will not shift while stitching it to the quilt.
Good Luck Suzy

So if a 2.25" strip will make a binding with 3/8" seam, a 2.5" strip and a 1/4" seam will make a binding with nothing in most of it. Some like a really padded binding, and the 1/4" seam will not make a full binding.

I always stretch my binding as I sew it on. Not really stretch, but lay it on taut and hold it there while I sew those few inches. My bindings do not get wavy. And no puckering either. (That will happen next time.LOL)

If you press a triangle into the beginning of EVERY binding strip, this will give you a line to sew on. No plus sign criss-crossing. Just match edges. Saves fabric. Then the end seam is done the same way. Cut off the last strip at the base of the first triangle and sew it together the same way you sewed all the other seams in the binding. No eye-balling, no stretching, no cutting off a little shorter. It should fit as you cut it.

As others mentioned..make the seam a tiny bit (thread width or two) tighter. If it seems a tiny bit too short...stretch the quilt to get the binding to lie flat.

I also struggled with puckers until I started using the Fons &Porter method--2.5" binding, folded and press; start with about a 10-12" tail, miter the corners. About 10-12" before you get to where you started, stop and lock stitch. Now, lay the unsewn binding on the quilt edge and midway along the unsewn side, fold the ends so there is a 1/4" gap between the folded ends. Finger press both folds. Open and either mark where the pressed X is on both end tails, or simply match the centers of both ends folded X's so that you are sewing the binding together on the diagonal/bias. (right sides together!). Before you trim the two tails, flip your binding to check that you did not twist it--it should lay flat.

I also use a walking foot to attach bindings. Never have a pucker problem. Also, I don't pin them, just guide it through the machine as I go.

Blackberry, if I understand you correctly the puckers you get are when you are sewing the beginning and ending tails together. I had that problem too until I did what Auntie V, cjsews and fangman did. I have used each of their suggestions with good success. Just depends on which one works for you.