Questions on Machine Quilting the first time
 

I pieced an I spy quilt with 5" squares. I don't want the quilting to show much, so I can't take it the long armer. I'm relatively new to quilting, so I'm hesitant about my plan. I plan on spray basting and using warm and natural cotton batting which says you can be 10" between seams. I bought a walking foot for my vintage slant needle Rocketeer. I plan to stitch in the ditch with disappearing thread. (I still haven't figured out what disappearing thread is.) The reason for the disappearing thread is that the front is very light and the back is very dark.

The quilt is for a 2 year old and is intended to be a play quilt.

Are there any gaping holes in my plan?

bkay

The top:

I have never used the monofilament thread, the last I knew it was like a very fine fishing line. I would use a 50 weight white thread on top and a dark three to match the back in the bobbin. I have started using "bobbin" thread in the bobbin, and it seems to blend in better than the standard quilting thread.

The back is kind of like a navy blue "blender". It's not solid, but reads that way. It matches the dark corner squares.

bkay

I might worry that the invisible thread would "poke" the child if there are any ends at all on the quilt top. Why not talk to your long-armer about using a thinner thread on the top so that it "sinks" in to the quilt. Ann

Invisible thread can be tricky to work with but doable. I find that one my Bernina, I have to drop the top tension WAY down so it doesn't break. I haven't worked with invisible thread on my Rocketeer so I don't know what it does. You could use white thread in the top and darker in the bobbin. The white probably wouldn't show much.

Monofilament thread is not recommended for children. Besides, it its washed much the thread will disintegrate. I know this from experience!

I have successfully quilted with YLI nylon monofilament thread. If you are using a walking foot, the stitching will be safe for children. The safety issue comes in only if you have big "toe catcher" stitches (which are more common in FMQ by beginners, not really an issue with experienced FMQers). It holds up just fine over time. It *can* deteriorate if exposed to a lot of sunlight for long periods of time (years), becoming yellow and brittle; however, with normal use it can easily last 20 years.

Some people prefer polyester monofilament thread, such as Superior sells. This thread does not turn yellow or break down over time, so you might want to use that instead of nylon monofilament. I prefer nylon monofilament for invisible machine applique because it is less noticeable; however, if I were quilting I would probably choose Superior's polyester monofilament thread. Also, polyester monofilament is less stretchy than nylon so it requires fewer adjustments to tension than nylon does.

For nylon monofilament, you want to reduce the upper tension considerably. This is to compensate for the stretch in the thread. It is also important with nylon monofilament to underfill the bobbins; for a metal bobbin, fill only about 3/4ths full. Those are the two major adjustments I make for nylon monofilament. Polyester monofilament is similar, but you would probably need to loosen the upper tension somewhat less.

Whether using nylon or polyester monofilament, brand is important. The only ones I recommend are YLI for nylon and Superior for polyester. Neither of these threads is "pokey". The nylon is as fine as baby hair (which is where the risk comes in for baby quilts if the thread gets wound around a toe or finger). Polyester is just slightly thicker and a little more milky in color, whereas nylon is clear (or smokey).

If you are wary of monofilament, then I would suggest going with Superior's "Bottom Line" in silver. This is a very fine thread, and the silver blends in with everything. Here is a link to it:
http://www.superiorthreads.com/shop/...om+line+silver

If you have never quilted a quilt before, I would go with cotton thread. A new technique is hard enough to master without additional complications. For a child's quilt, I wouldn't worry too much about the color of thread on the backing.

The batting will hold up, but quilting 10" apart will put a ton of stress on the thread & fabric for a utility quilt. Children's quilts generally should be quilted 2" or LESS apart to provide enough sturdiness for regular washing & heavy use. 10" apart with cotton thread will last generally for about 2 years if laundered regularly before issues with the thread or fabric can start to crop up; because mono doesn't swell like cotton thread, as the needle holes start to wear, mono thread will not fill that space in like cotton. Cotton thread is easier to work with for new beginners than mono & will hold up a bit better in the wash.
I would pick a 50wt/ 2ply (or 60/3) cotton thread that matches the top & not worry about the back. 50/2 is very thin & really will not show up. Working with a Walking Foot is pretty easy to learn; it's not like learning to FMQ. If you still really want to use mono, I'd do mono only on the top & a matching 50/2 cotton in the bobbin.
Once you've done a couple of pieces with cotton thread, I do believe there are some rare instances where mono is the best choice. That said, after seeing for over 20 years, I STID'ed my first quilt, using mono because I thought that was the best choice for newbies. It was a nightmare to work with & after maybe a dozen or so trips through the wash, the stitches started snapping in probably 8 places & I've had to re-quilt the whole table runner. That is not a flaw of mono thread -- it's a problem that happens when inexperienced quilters try to work with one of THE most finicky threads out there without making the many accommodations needed to successfully quilt with mono.

How about quilting diagonally through the squares and cornerstones using a medium gray or blue cotton thread. I've never had much success with invisible thread. Staying in the ditch is also a challkenge for me.

I want to chime in about stitch in the ditch also. For me, it's one of the most difficult ways to quilt with a walking foot! Requires a lot of concentration, and I am never satisfied with my ability to stay in the ditch (or keep an even distance from it). I like the idea of doing diagonals to avoid having to do SITD. Also, you may want to consider a more modern alternative, which is to use a walking foot to make wavy lines through the quilt. This is actually easier than trying to make straight lines as there is no "wrong" way to do it. There are a number of tutorials online, and you can Google "wavy quilting lines" and click on "images" to see some of the possibilities. I will link a few here:
http://sewsweetness.com/2011/09/back...and-other.html
http://bastingbeauty.com/2014/03/25/...wavy-quilting/
http://betteroffthread.com/2013/03/0...ting-tutorial/
https://sewfreshquilts.blogspot.com/...l-habitat.html

I started to ask if FMQing in the ditch might be easier, but I'm not ready to tackle that yet. I'm picking up my 15-91 on Monday, which will be my FMQ machine. However, the best machine in the world will not make up for lack of experience.

I think I will make up some dummy squares and see what works best and is easiest. I'm into doing what will be successful. As I go forward, I'll be able to tackle more difficult techniques. Failure is discouraging, so I don't want to go there.

I have some left over Warm and Natural 80/20 from my last project. Will it be much different from the 100 cotton?

bkay

Bkay,
FMQing in the ditch is usually harder because you need to manage both to stay in the ditch & to keep stitch length consistent.
The 80/20 is noticeably higher loft than W&N (which isn't 100% cotton, but something like 87% cotton & 13% synthetic scrim). It's not an enormous difference, but it is visible. The bonding process is also different, requiring a quilting distance of no more than 5" to preserve the batt (which I would argue is still too far apart for a child's utility quilt).

I'm talking about using my scraps of 80/20 to practice stitch in the ditch with some dummy squares. Will it handle much differently than the cotton? It's just an experiment, and will probably go in the trash when I learn what I need to know. It will not get washed ir used, so that is not an issue. It's just a practice item.

If it will be that different, I probably have enough leftovers from the batting I bought for the I spy quilt to make up a couple of dummies to experiment with. I just wanted it pristine when I got ready to sandwich the quilt.

So, does it handle that differently?

bkay

There won't be a lot of difference. I would go ahead and use the scraps for practice. They will work fine.

As long as you use polyester invisible thread you will be ok. Use regular thread in the bobbin. The newer polyester invisible threads work very well.

I don't know what machine you have, but there is a "stitch-in-the-ditch" foot for my Pfaff. I stitched in the ditch for a wall hanging and found it much harder than I had expected. Then, my quilt shop had me try the new foot. It was like a miracle. The foot has a sort of prow, and it just makes it easy to stay right in the ditch.

I agree with Bree...for a child's quilt, it really should be quilted much closer than 10 inches. I just gifted a Warm Wishes quilt to our new nephew which I simply used my walking foot to do cross hatching about 2 inches apart. You could use light color thread on top and dark blue in your bobbin. I would post a picture but I haven't figured out how to do it from my new Ipad (sigh).

I haven't used the mono-filament thread in quite a while because I have enough trouble threading colored thread. Since you have all these wonderful and bright colors, why not use a variegated thread on the top. I like using variegated thread on a quilt top as it adds another dimension to the quilt. Instead of quilting in the ditch, perhaps you might try quilting with cross-hatching through the blocks, corner to corner, as it will actually take a little less time than in the ditch. I really like your quilt. Thanks for sharing.

The way I have it planned, the widest span will be 4.5 inches. Is that too wide for a child's quilt? I had planned to sew all the straight lines.

If it's this difficult, maybe I should look at the other options. The quilt shop recommended someone who will custom quilt. (The shop only does computer patterns.) They rent the machines with the handles, but you have to take a $150.00 class first.

bkay

I've used a very narrow Zigzag stitch in the ditch. It isn't noticeable if you get out of the ditch a little.

whatever color the back is use that in the bobbin....I would use a neutral color and either do a diagonal across the blocks or just do a stitch in the ditch. Both are easy with a walking foot

You will be fine stitching the seam lines. Start somewhere in the middle and go for it! I would use white poly thread for top and bottom.

Would this be easier than stitch in the ditch? It would double the sewing. Would it give a better result?

bkay

Like some of the previous posters I recommend quilting every 2-3" for children's quilts that get a lot of use (and washing!). I also agree that putting Xs through the blocks plus SID would provide a lovely quilt plus make it very washable. Don't worry about the thread color not "matching". After a quilt is washed it will crinkle up and hide a lot of the stitching. Just use your walking foot, a nice thread (a 50 weight cotton or So Fine polyester would be easy to work with), and go for it. Your quilt is really cute, and it will be greatly loved.

Very cute! I made one similar to this. Your two year old will love it!

No advice about the quilting. I've never used disappearing thread, either. If the back is dark, I'd probably choose a thread that matches closely and if you actually stitch in the ditch (and not 1/4 inch away from the ditch) it probably won't show on the front. Of course, you could use different colored thread on top and bottom.

This was my thought. I would use white cotton or cotton/poly blend in the top and bobbin. As someone above mentioned, the grid on the back would be quite nice. It would be double sewing, but all straight stitching, so would go rather quickly. I have never used invisible thread so have no opinion on that. I have done very little stitch in the ditch, and was not happy with the results. Your quilt top is beautiful. Lucky child who gets it!

I practiced my SITD just yesterday using a SITD foot and it still came out lousy. Ugh!
Months ago I practiced straight line stitching, edge to edge with lines 1.5 in. apart on a baby/toddler quilt using YLI monofilament using a 2.5 stitch length on my Pfaff. It sits here as I don't want to gift it (even to an Animal shelter) fearing the possibility of a toe or nail catcher. So am I reading that maybe it is really okay to gift?

bkay, I like the last example you posted. I think you would find it went quite quickly.
I have used the mono filament thread and it can go really well, or really badly. Unless there's a real need for it for a design element, I'd stay away from it.
Also, it would be cool to take a long arm class, but be aware that as with everything there is quite a learning curve. I was really surprised at how terribly clumsy I was. I really thought it wouldn't be THAT much different from my DSM, but it sure is! So, maybe take the class for fun, but be prepared to do a lot of practice before you want to work on a beautiful project like this one.
Boy, I'm a ray of sunshine today, aren't I?:eek:

Love your I Spy quilt! It's going to turn out beautifully!

Watson

This was close to my first thought as well. Grey thread would blend top and bottom. Simply quilt an X through the big squares and maybe a sepentine line through the sashing? Or do bubbles in the squares. But not monofilament. I know you are not feeling brave , right? But trust yourself to quilt a simple motif like X's or bubbles or squares in the squares. You'll like it more than you think. Monofilament, if it comes loose, can snag a child's toe and hurt like heck (or do damage). Plus it's a pain to work with (or can be) and not comfortable against the skin.

Someone on this board turned me on to Superior invisible thread when I asked about it. I have used nylon in the past and hated it. The Superior sews just like other polyester threads EXCEPT you have to loosen your top tension way down so you don't get loopies on the back of your quilt. I don't know how to adjust the tension if you use the Superior polyester in top and bobbin. Experiment with fabric scraps and left over batting.

Remember that you need to measure in all directions, including diagonally across the square. If you used charm squares, they measure 4.5 in across, but over 6in diagonally.

I would tend to shy away from monofilament thread in a child's quilt (it can also be a bit tricky at first try). What you might try is using a matching thread in the bobbin and a blue on the top that matches your cornerstones. If you are not sure about your straight lines, then you could do a stitch in the ditch in the cornerstone and then 'wobble in' in the square. Sort of a small orange peel/crescent moon look. This gentle curve would be easy for a beginner and forgiving as in not showing little imperfections to a straight line. Because your batting says 10" is acceptable, you could just do all the lines either vertical or horizontal. If you felt good about it, then do both. But this would give you on out. The main thing is to do something you are comfortable with. If you make it very difficult and it stops being enjoyable, it will become a work project and destined to become a UFO!

I would consider quilting 1/4" outside the blocks rather than stitch in the ditch. If you are new to quilting this might be easier and also using a bright multicolor thread would be a nice accent around each block.
This is a sweet I Spy quilt.
peace

EDIT: Like bkay said is perfect.

I have used superior monopoly it doesn't disintegrate or poke as I used it in a garment washed hundreds of times

If you want the quilting to kind of recede into the background, you could always use a finer thread, such as Bottom Line. A lot of quilters use a 50 or 60 wt thread, Bottom Line is a 40 wt.

I actually really like when I can see the quilting on the back. :thumbup:

I quilted the one I made which is very like this, with a 1/4 inch from the edge square inside each square, and a serpentine stitch down the sashing, vertically and horizontally, and in the borders. I quilted Xs in the four cornerstones. I think my squares were five inches. As I recall, I used white thread (I made and gave it to a friend so can't look to see).

I made a blanket for one of my little nephews quilting roughly four inches apart (eyeballing it with a walking foot) and the Warm Co soft and bright poly batting and its five years old and going strong with frequent washing and drying, faded a titch but it's well-loved and well used. No worries :) my son has a quilt with six inch SITD done in a crosshatch and it's fine too

Im a fairly new quilter and I have a really hard time staying in the ditch and I get frustrated and critical of my work. I have started using a serpentine or zigzag stitch when I stitch in the ditch. I also do a lot of shadowing the ditch (more work) For color, I would use a color that blends for the bobbin and white or lt gray for the front (regular quilting thread). Keep it simple, you want your blocks to stand out not the quilting.