Quilt Binding Problems
 

I have been reading comments and questions about quilt bindings. I also have been looking at tutorials on the subject. I am wondering"

What do you want to achieve in applying the quilt binding?
What are your greatest challenges in making good bindings.
What basic questions do you have regarding bindings.

I am talking about straight bindings and not anything other than the 90 degree mitred mitred and plain binding (no scallops, odd angles, inside folds etc).

The best quilt binding tutorial I have seen is by Sharon Schamber. She goes through what judges look for in a juried quilt and how to achieve those results.

I wanted to know what basic problems any quilt has in binding. I have viewed Sharon's tutorial. Does it answer all questions?

I think Sharon's dvd is excellent.

I irealize Sharon's video is excellent. However, I wanted to know what questions and problems QB members have with their binding. Sharon shows a specific way that I have discovered not all quilters use (glue specifically). There are many tutorials on the web all giving good instructions Can I assume Sharon's video answers all questions.

Thank you Tartan. That is the kind of information I am looking for.

Those are very good questions, Holice.

I have had several people hire me to put on their bindings, and they seem to fall into one of two camps:

1. Some quilters seem to have a fear of binding for reasons they don't seem to understand and can't explain to me. They are just terrified of binding, they dread it, and it's a relief to have someone like me who they can pay to bind their quilt.

2. They don't feel they have the skills to do good bindings. They don't know how to sew the strips together. They don't know how to do mitered corners. They don't know how to hand sew, or how to tie a knot, or how to hide the ends of the thread. And along with not having the skills is not having the patience.

I think one problem that many quilters face is how to butt the two ends of the binding together.

Having had problems with not getting square corners and not "filling" the binding I have learned to cut narrower strips (2 1/4" and not 2 1/2".) Then I saw this video by Patrick Lose and now my corners are super! Its long but really only a short section is the key.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?f...n&v=MMsmEtonhoA&NR=1

Pinkiris: Some quiltrs find that sewing off at an angle into the corner helps in making a good mitre. The normal procedure is to sew the binding (approaching the corner) to the 1/4" point from the end. However, this is not always true if your seam allowance is any width other than 1/4". I believe the assumption is that all binding seams are 1/4". My bindings are 3/8" and I have even made them wider if I want a different look. So lets say - sew the binding to the point that represents the width of your seam. I usually stop one or two stitches before I get to this point and backstitch a couple stitches. Not sewing to the exact point of your seam allowance will leave a bit os space to accommodate the folds in the binding. If you angle to the point you will need to sew to the exact spot the width of your seam allowance, otherwise the corner will not be a 45 degree angle.

One of the comments above asked if she should reduce the width of the binding to have a good fold. I have found that the info that is missing in most tutorials or instructions is that the width of the cut binding has a direct relationship to the width of your seam allowance. Usualy a 3/8" seam allowance requires a 2.5" wide cut binding.
The 1/4" seam allowance will require either a 2" or 2.25" cut binding.
It is good to test after a few inches of sewing to make sure the seam allowance is good and the binding will fold to the back with the batting and quilt filling the binding. If the fill is not good then the seam allowsnce must be adjusted or the binding recut.

I took a class at the LQS for double-mitered binding and it helped me greatly. One of the issues I still have is the inconsistent width from the front to the back. I want about the same amount of fabric on each side. I sew mine down by hand for the most part so I am not trying to sew through all layers in a ditch.

I usually use two color binding, one color on the front and one on the back. I learned this in a class by Anita Murphy. I don't see many quilts with two color binding now. I have more trouble with the ending joins. It looks different every time.

Holice: You have addressed and answered my problem without even knowing it! I have trouble getting a good fill on my bindings and your remarks about the seam allowance rang bells in my head. Of course that is my issue.

By the way, Sharon's You Tube video was the best for me in working with bindings. I now can miter beautifully, even if I don't always use the glue.

Love her tute on bindings.
peace

What I had trouble with at one time:

How wide to cut the binding - I prefer a wider binding than the usual 1/4 inch. It's easier for me to use the furthest left needle setting of my machine for my 'guide width' - I think mine is almost 1/2 inch wide.(2-7/8 of bias cut binding usually works for me)

As you've mentioned, many directions seem to assume that everyone wants a 1/4 inch binding - so the instructions would be better - iMO - if they said to stop the finished width of the binding away from the corner. (That's worded awkwardly - did you get what I meant?)

What/why straight cut or bias cut binding - pros and cons of each

How to join the ends - when making the binding - and when finishing it off.

When it's better to do the second stitching by machine.

What kind of hand stitching to use for the second stitching. And how to do it.

How to hand sew that corner fold down so it looks decent.

How to keep the edge turned down - glue? pins? clips?

Understanding how to fold that corner to get the miter. I had to get the book out so many times!

Should one press the binding in half - or baste the edges together - (I baste the edges together instead of pressing in half - to allow for the shifting of the fabric as it turns)

Squaring the quilt - tidying up the edges before applying the binding - do you overcast the edge before applying the binding? Do you leave the edges raw?

Convincing me to do a test run/sample to get the needle position right.

My problem with binings is that it NEVER seems flat, or even. Despite reading books and articles, and watching tutorials on YouTube, nothing I do seems to look rigt. I measure athe the top, middle and bottom od all four side, and try to get the most accurate number, but no luck. I have tried straight grain and bias binding, and every quilt I have ever tried ti bind myself, has lumps, bumps, and puckers. Forget mitering, my corners are all rounded, not a neat, sharp, crisp corner. I finally gave up, and started paying my LA'er to put the binding on. This seems to be my biggest problem - no problems at all with piecing, borders, or even backing, but my bindings are hopeless.

Ooops! Somebody else's fingers got in my way :)

How about for those of us who dont want to hand bind. I put my binding on completely by machine. So I use no glue, I sew the binding on the back with a generous 1/4in seam then take it to the ironing board and press the binding "out" on the back. I then flip and use my edge joining foot for a guide and stitch on the top. I adjust stitch length to make it seem consistent with the quilting. It also allows me to add piping and flanges easily to give my binding a little punch without too much effort.

There are not many tutorials on how to completely machine bind. I would only hand bind for a show quilt :) Otherwise everything gets machined.

Also, not sure if this helps, but when I try to teach people to put the two ends together for mitered join on the binding. I always keep these two little things in mind: "Bottoms UP" and "Top DOWN", I even repeat that to myself when I am joining. :) in the midst of my running commentary in my head!

WOW. Thank you for this Kitsie. Who would have thought it is so easy will do Patrick's methods next binding.


Judy in Phx, AZ

The only problem I ever have is getting that last join in the binding, so that the binding is the right length to fit exactly on the quilt. I usually get it right, but it is an awkward seam to sew with the weight of the quilt at hand, and then sometimes I have stretched too much or not enough on the quilt edge when measuring to decide exactly where the binding joining seam should go. In that case, the fit is not perfect, and I have to rip the joining seam and try again.

It amazes me how many "not so good" bindings I see on quilts. I think that for some new quilters, they have not seen what the standard in binding looks like, so they don't know what they don't know. Also, by the time comes to put the binding on to finish a project, some people have lost patience or interest and try to hurry through it.

To me, the binding is what makes a quilt look professional. An average quilt made with average skill can be upgraded in appearance tremendously with a skillfully applied binding. On the other hand, a wonderful quilt loses some respect when it has a sloppy binding or one without nicely mitered corners.

So that's what they're called -- "bird beak corners"!! Occasionally I will have one of those.

....or rabbit ears

These are usually caused when the seam allowance waivers - less or more than the correct width - as it nears the end of the side. There is a tendency to lose control of the machine about 1/2" or so before getting to the end. If you rip out the binding if you see this happen, usually you see that it is the seam allowance.
Also, when you fold the binding down to make the mitre and sew on the next side....these folds must be exact on their proper angle in order to have a good mitre. Sharon Shamble, in her video, emphasizes that the fold at this point, which is in the verticle position or along the side of the next side - that the top fold should be very slightly in from the edge. I would call this the fuzz or threads of the layered quilt. Often the diagonal fold below the top may not be exactly lined up with the top fold. Another indication that a problem may occur is when you fold the binding to the back at the end of the row.......the fold that extends beyond the next side of the quilt, should be straight and exact and not at an angle.

Kitsie, that was a really helpful video. I already stitched off the end at a 45 degree angle, but clipping that little piece makes sense to get rid of the bulkiness I sometimes struggle with. Thanks!

I iron mine and also glue the binding prior to sewing. That really helps in keeping the binding even on both sides. ironing is key, both front and back prior to binding.

Marcia Baker -Alicia's Attic video on You Tube is the only method that I use. It is so simple and the results are perfect every time. Take a look at that method ...it is a winner!!!!!

Kitsie, I love that Patrick Lose video. I'll be using that method in future. Corners have been my binding problem. Thank you.

I have trouble with bias binding. I used the tube method of making it and cutting it was an utter disaster. It looked like a rumpled mess when I applied it. I ended up taking it off and putting on a binding made from the cross grain, and it looked fabulous.

Binding Basics
 

This is an excellent question, Holice! I've studied and tried out several different techniques, and have combined several of my favorites to come up with what works for me. I have found that I prefer 2" strips for my binding, because I like a tight, narrow, filled binding that is close to even widths on the front and the back. I am talking about a french fold cross-grain binding - that is, with binding strips cut from selvage to selvage instead of on the bias. I only use bias binding if I have curves, or on the rare occasion to achieve a certain look from say a stripe or design in the print.

I always join my strips with a 45-degree angle, lower my stitch length to about 1.8, then trim the seam allowance to 1/8" -3/16" and press it open to distribute the bulk. Then I fold the binding in half and apply to the top of the trimmed, squared quilt using my 1/4" foot with a guide to keep the seam allowance consistent. I slide a rubber glove on my left hand which immediately helps to alleviate the pressure and tension in my hand, arm and shoulder as it grips the quilt and keeps it in place. Then I leave a 6" tail and start stitching, going about 5". I plant the needle and TEST to see if my seam allowance is correct, meaning that if I fold it over, will the fold just barely cover the stitching line on the back side. If not, I'll adjust my needle one or to clicks to the right or left and restitch if necessary.

Getting the miters just right at the corners is easiest if you stop one stitch before a seam-allowance-width away from the corner. I back stitch a couple of stitches, then pull the quilt out of the machine to make my mitered fold. I agree with Holice, that angling off is not always accurate. It's easier to illustrate this, as well as mastering that final mystic mitered seam - so here's my binding lesson: http://www.rileyblakedesigns.com/med...Lesson_pdf.pdf
here's a link to a photo tutorial: http://www.rileyblakedesigns.com/cut...ding-tutorial/
and here's a video using the same technique on miters and that final seam for machine binding: http://youtu.be/i9riC03FNRQ
Once the binding is stitched on, then I lightly press the binding away from the quilt to get a crisp fold, then I fold the corners over to form identical miters on the back side and pin to secure before I get to it to hand stitch the binding to the back with matching thread.

If a binding is neat, filled and secure, it can really elevate a quilt's beauty, and have better wear.

I very strongly suggest that you check Craftsy for QuiltFinger's instructions on continuous quilt binding. It is a free download and is the clearest most comprehensive article on quilt binding I've ever read. I want my binding to be as clean and neat as possible after all the work that went into the quilt. Her method words, it is easy and gives you a beautiful binding.

I do but with just a pin. No exact but closer than eye balling it.

I agree with this. Patrick Lose never got the ends of his binding sewn together. Sharon Schambers and Kay Wood (no relation), show this, but I like my way better.

After the binding is created, sewn into strips and ready to go, (I always iron mine in half but some don't), lay it on the quilt where you want to start sewing it on. I start a foot or so from a corner. Open the binding flat and fold the left top corner down to the seam line to form a triangle. This is called a Magic Triangle. Press this fold very well. Fold the binding back in half as it would be when you sew. Start sewing about 8 inches down from this triangle. Also put a pin in the edge of the quilt about 16 inches above where you started sewing. You will have a tail loose at the beginning. Now we sew the binding all around the quilt.

First, I don't take the quilt out of the machine when I get to the corner. I sew up to a seam width from the corner (if your binding will be 3/8" wide, stop at 3/8" from the corner. Turn quilt 45 degrees and sew right into the corner, but keep the needle in the last stitch. You may have to back up one stitch to keep the needle still in fabric. Turn the quilt so that it is in position to sew down the next side. Lift folded edge of binding and pull loose binding down toward you. You've just created a big wrinkle in the binding. Pinch this wrinkle and lay it flat to the left. You've just created the perfect folded corner. If you need to, lift the needle now, but don't move the quilt too far away from the needle area. Be sure the fold in the binding is even with the last side, and edges of binding and quilt are even along the next side. Give binding a little tug so that it lies flat. Move the quilt so that the needle is at the next seam line. You will have one seam width of loose thread there. Just leave it, don't cut it off. Start sewing down the next side, no need to backstitch.

When you get to the pin from the beginning, stop and take the quilt out of the machine. Lay this last area flat and pin down the binding as you will want it to be. I always give my bindings a little tug so that they don't end up wavy, so I pull a little here, also. Lay the beginning magic triangle down and lay the end tail on top of it. They need to be overlapped when you cut off the final end. Find the base of the magic triangle, and cut the top tail here. The two pieces are overlapped at this point. Take out the pins now and open out both ends of the binding. They should be single layers now. Lift the ends up and hold them right sides together. Now twist them in opposite directions so that they form the "L" as when you sewed the strips together to make the binding. The fold of the magic triangle should run side to side, not top to bottom. Check this out carefully. Pin very carefully on both sides of the fold. It's only a short seam, but with 25 pounds of king size quilt hanging on there, it's hard to keep it straight. Sew this seam. Now pick it up and snap it so that it lays flat on the quilt. Did it work???? Now go back and open that seam allowance and then trim out the excess fabric. Opening the seam before you trim it gives you more fabric to grasp to open the seam.

Now all you have to do is sew that last 16 inches and you have your binding on. No one will be able to tell where your last seam is on the binding.

Different strokes for different folks. I found that when I stopped ironing, the binding snugged up to the top much better and laid flatter. I think that ironing sets a memory into the binding that doesn't allow it to move and shift as you wrap it around to the back, and then you end up with lumps.

lesson: http://www.rileyblakedesigns.com/med...Lesson_pdf.pdf
here's a link to a photo tutorial: http://www.rileyblakedesigns.com/cut...ding-tutorial/
and here's a video using the same technique on miters and that final seam for machine binding: http://youtu.be/i9riC03FNRQ

I just watched all of these, and they are very good. I think it's a good idea to get lots of opinions. Then you can pick out your favorite.

I never understood why the strips are overlapped with some extra sticking out when the mitered seams are made. I just match mine up to the edge of the fabric. No trimming.

In the videos, they clipped and cut off a piece of binding to measure where to cut off the tail. In my method, the magic triangle does that. It's a built in measure. They put the triangle in afterwards anyway. You need it to see where to sew the seam.

Also showing how to fold the binding strip straight up and then bring it down explains what happens when I do the "Pinch" folding at the corners. Just be sure to pull it down snugly so there is no extra fabric hiding in that fold.

First of all I do want to say that I enjoy doing bindings but there is one thing I have not been able to figure out. Some instructors tell you to trim the quilt top even while others tell you to leave about 1/2 inch of batting and backing, I have done both ways and still am not sure which one is best. It seems to me that trimming even with quilt top creates a binding that is not too stable. How do you quilters handle this? Betsy

I'm not sure what you mean by "a binding that is not too stable".

It's personal preference. I like a narrow binding, so I trim the excess backing and batting and use narrow strips for the binding. If you don't trim, you'll need to use a wider binding to cover the gap.

I assume that you are talking about machine sewn bindings, since that is all I do and you didn't specify.

Question 1 - Achievement: finish the quilt. Sometimes it acts as a frame to the quilt, which is something I like. But there are quilts where a 'blending in' binding looks best.

Question 2 - motivation - it is not my favorite thing to do. Also, the bigger the quilt, the more 'wrestling' with the bulk, which makes my motivation even harder to achieve.

Question 3 - No questions, as I've mastered it. I admit that sometimes I have a bit of trouble with the mitering, but that's usually because I'm too tired to think straight. That's easily resolved by taking some time away from the sewing machine.

The origional question related to both. I have been reading all comments as well as looking at the videos recommended. The videos appear to have the same instructions with some variation to them. However, all are designed to achieve good bindings. Good bindings are: even seams; full bindings; well mitred corners and an almost invisible joining at the ends. The one thing missing in almost all of them is the "why" Knowing the "why" might clear up much of the confusion quilters have with this part of the quiltmaking process.

My BFF, (rebeljane on QB) and I have noticed a lot of quilters will avoid binding at any cost. I think sometimes it's a case of convincing ones self that they can't do it. We can't see why it scares them so much. If someone is just new to sewing, fair enough, but we've seen quilters of long standing who dread this finishing of their quilt. We have only been quilting for 9/10 years each but love getting to the binding as it means the quilt is about finished and we can start another. We both stitch binding down by hand at the back.
Don't let it beat you ladies, you are all better and braver than that.