Hi,
I put together a quilt with batik accents. No problem sewing it together. I put it on my frame and it's skipping all the stitches JUST on the batik. I've tried every needle from 11 to 14, different weights of thread and I'm stumped. I can't take it apart, I haven't time, it's a wedding gift. Aside from taking it off the frame and quilting it on my regular machine what else should I try? I've used batiks before without problems. As I said, it pieced together fine, so it's not the fabric...or is it? HELP!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks,
bev.

I must say I have never had this problem. I use Batiks a lot on both the front and back. I use a 16 or 18 needle. The only time I had skipping problems it was because my rollers for the stitch regulator had got off "track". I also use the same thread in the bobbin and top. Have you tried re-threading the machine from beginning to end including the bobbin? Some times that fixes these little "bugs". Good Luck. I am off to my all day quilt group. We meet from noon to 8pm on Mondays. Sometimes I get a lot done and others not.....to much talking and eating.
Connie

When I am having problems with threads skipping, I do what Connie suggested--I rethread my machine, and check my bobbin. Always a great place to start troubleshooting.

I just took my first long arm class and the instructor said that some Batiks are more picky about thread than others. Could it be the weight of your thread? Some Batiks are very tightly woven and you do not want to be tearing the fabric with your needle and thread.

I am sorry--these are my only suggestions. Others on the board are long arm quilters and can be more help, I am sure.

When quilting w/the batiks...do you all prefer a certain brand or kind of thread??Thanks ahead of time! Skeat

Thank you for the suggestions. I did try rethreading the machine but not a new bobbin. I have the same thread top and bobbin. I use coats and clark cotton. Maybe I should try one of the other brands. I'm confused because I had no trouble piecing with the same thread. Oh well. I'll try a new bobbin, a larger needle (I have some 18s) and I'll get back to you.
Again, thank you all for your suggestions. If worse comes to worse I'll quilt around the batiks. Seeing as the top is made of 1" and 2" squares and rectangles this should be fun!
bev.

Are you using a sharp needle and not Universal or ball point etc. With my Bernina, I don't have any problems (better knock wood since I'm starting a new batik project) when using a Schmetz 12 jeans 80/12 or a Schmetz Microtex Sharp 80/12. I find that Coats & Clark thread doesn't do well in my machine. I use YLI and Sulky with success.

Brand new needles. I use schmetz universal or quilting needles. I read online about microtex needles. What are they? Or should I ask..how are they different? In any case I'm going out tomorrow and buy a package and give it one last try. I also read that for batiks you should use 40 wt thread on top and 50 wt in the bobbin. Since my quilt is barely 1/10th batik I think I'm better off with equal weight threads. I WILL switch brands though. There's a shop a couple of miles away that doesn't even carry coats and clark. Maybe I'll get my thread and needles there.
Thanks for the needle and thread info!!
bev.

Bev, keep us up to date....I have 2 almost 3 to do soon!Skeat

also make sure that you're using a new needle. sometimes if the needle is blunt, it doesn't catch the bobbin thread correctly. by the way, is the batik prewashed? too late now, but it does help when it's softer! and try a heavier-than-normal thread. always works for me.

Also...don't think it isn't the needle if you try just 1 new one. Yesterday I was having all kinds of trouble (although not on a batik), but I did everything, rethreaded, etc., etc., and new needle..Still problems....then tried different new needle out of the same package...viola'...good to go!

Sometimes brand new needles are not good. Hope you can get it working for you!

I'm about to go out to buy new needles but I wanted to thank you all for the information, first. I'll try a microtex 12 needle, YLI or Sulky thread, and I also read if you make a solution of two parts water to one part fabric softener and spray it on the batiks it'll help. So off the frame it comes to get it's treatment, then back on with new needles and thread. Wish me luck ladies. I'll definately tell you what happens...good or bad.
bev.

Bev--thanks for keeping us posted--we are all interested to see what works for you. Hope you find a solution--and soon, for your sake. :D

By the way--what kind of machine are you quilting this quilt on?

Here are some things to try:

Bigger needle, smaller needle

Spritz the fabric with water

Use Sewer's Aid on the thread spool


Some batiks are made on goods that are a really tight weave. Your needle is having a hard time going through the fabric, so it's missing the thread pickup. If you look real close, you may find you are breaking threads instead of going between the weave. It's just how some batiks are.

Something else to check: see if your batting is right side up. If you take a pin or needle, poke at the batting. On some types of batting, it goes easier on one side or the other. You want that easier side on the top where the needle goes in.

never knew that. thanks.

When I was in the quilt shop getting new needles I flipped through a book on machine quilting. It said to use Egyptian cotton thread. I bought two small spools. One for the top and the other (a bit darker) for the bobbin. I also read online yesterday that if you mix one part fabric softener with two parts water and spray it on the batik that should help. SO...I have my new needles, new thread and the poor batiks have been doused with the softener solution. Once it's dry it's back onto the frame and......
I have the first generation Inspira frame. It's obvious why they changed the whole thing. Vibration is a problem, even after my boyfriend put more screws and nuts and whatevers everywhere. The pantographs are placed on a shelf above the frame, which I LOVE (don't need my glasses to see) BUT the center of the shelf (which is in two pieces) gets pulled down by gravity until it's so low that it hits the machine. I've braced it with muffin tins, rulers, a long plank of wood, you name it. I purchased it with the Pfaff, and splurged on the stitch regulator. I already had a grace frame (which has been redesigned and will cost over $200.00 to update mine)so I knew the basics.
Sorry about the babble, I'm waiting for the qult to dry.
Again, thank you for all the help. I'll let you all know tomorrow whether it worked or whether I'm going to have to quilt around the batiks. Yikes!
But for now the quilt top smells "April Fresh". Looks like I'll have to wash it once it's quilted.
bev.

Bev...you can fix that droopy problem at the hardware or farm store. You need to get a flat brackets or 'L' shaped brackets (and hammer the 'L' ones flat-if you couldn't find the flat ones). Then screw them in from the bottom up. So you don't see them and they will keep the gap closed up for you. Just a helpful thought on that...:)

Bev, I'm crazy about batiks and haven't had any problems quilting them on the frame. That said, I can't imagine using a needle smaller than an 18, and I'm careful not to let the quilt get too high off the sewing machine bed.

I'm also discovering the pleasures of (shh!) poly thread. Some of the nicest newer threads are poly, but without that shiny, plastic-y look. The poly is much smoother than cotton, so less friction. And don't worry, it won't tear or hurt the cotton of the quilt.

Also, don't be afraid of the bigger holes left by the bigger needles. They close right up when you wash the quilt.

Hope this helps!

When you've tried all the usual stuff (as already suggested by others), don't forget the thing that has helped me the most in the past when all else has failed...de-lint your machine. Take out the bobbin case and clean the area and down inside...mostly has worked for me. I have a MC9000 and I have found I can use almost any kind of thread with it and have no problems. Most of the time it's the needle or lint inside the machine. Good luck.

The update...good and bad. The quilt top looked fine after drying. I was afraid the fabric softener would leave a residue, but no. I put it back on the frame, changed the top thread, the bobbin thread, the needle AND delinted the machine and bobbin case. The thread broke about 2" in. Okay, try again. Another break. So I put the original thread back in and decided to quilt from left to right. I prefer right to left, but, hey whatever works, right? The first square of batik the skipped stitches were back BUT...from then on...PERFECT!! I'll fix those skipped stitches by hand once it's off the frame. The thread has broken only once more but I'm still going to run out and get some Sewers Aid. I think that's right, I'll have to go back and check. While I'm out I'll get some L braces for the frame top, which has now sunk low enough to once again hit the machine. This is after only two lines of quilting!! DO NOT buy an Inspira frame, at least not the early ones. I've got to splurge and update my Gracie.
Hopefully I can post pictures once everything is done, if I haven't gone insane by then. You all are amazing!!! And I thank each and every one for helping. Quilters rule!!!
keep wishing me luck, the fun has just begun...
bev.

regardless of the age of the quilting frame have you attempted to contact the manufacturer at all? sometimes they can be very helpful. they may have a clue as to why this happens that none of us thought of. it should not be falling from its own weight.

as to the skipped stitches, again get in touch with the maker. if they refuse to help or ignore you, tell them bluntly that you belong to a number of online forums and blogs (even if you don't) and intend to spread the negative word about their uncooperation (new word) and defective product. sometimes that jogs them and it can't hurt you.

Bev...so glad to hear you are winning over there!:))I did check w/a good quilter friend that pumps quilts out like we drink our soft drinks and told her the scoop of some having prob quilting their batiks, etc..she said she has never had any problems and even has done several different paper piecing w/the batiks and had the thread stitch all the way down to a 1.3 and no breakage....phew! I have 3 to quilt soon! :)Now...I would like to know what is the thread stay stuff???Did I say that right? Skeat

Thanks, Butterfly!

I'm glad to hear that "poly thread" is not a scatalogical phrase <g>

Ummm... I don't ever prewash. I can't imagine ironing all that yardage, I love the crisp feeling, and I love the quilty wrinkles after washing the finished quilt. That said, I DO use Synthrapol if there's any question about bleeding...and I DO keep my fingers crossed.

It's probably part of my need for instant gratification. People who do pre-wash impress me...

Ummm... I don't ever prewash. I can't imagine ironing all that yardage, I love the crisp feeling, and I love the quilty wrinkles after washing the finished quilt.

I so 'ditto' that for myself too! Even after washing, I haven't been sorry. Do know that it is preference for each quilter...no wrong or right:)My mom is a prewasher and just shakes her head at me!LOL

I always prewash. Once I buy a fabric, even if I'm not going to use it in the near, or far, future it gets washed and ironed. Actually, I rinse and dry my batting, so there's no shrinkage (unless I want that wrinkly old fashioned look). I just throw the fabric in with my regular wash (the batting goes in alone just on final rinse). Yes, I agree, it IS a pain to iron.
An update on the quilt...it is HALF quilted!!!!! No problems so far...but I still have my fingers crossed. Again, my thanks to all who wrote in.
bev.

Great that your problem is solved! It is the llittle things that make us go crazy! Just remember re-threading, new needle, cleaning, and oiling make a big difference on how your machine stitching will look. I quilt with King Tut threads and sometmes YLI. I also prewash everything and use startch to crisp up the fabric.
Connie

I bought batiks while in St. John Virgin Is, last summer to make a quilt of travels. Do you wash the batiks? Also have quilt kit of batik squares of dark colors. Will I be able to wash this when finished? Don't like things I can't wash. I am also new to quilting. These are my first "specialty" fabrics.
Sharon

I haven't read all of the other posts, so hope I'm not repeating, but I just saw this problem mentioned on the homequiltingsystems group on Yahoo! The solution was to spray the batik fabric with silicone (not the type you get in hardware stores, but the type made for sewing machine threads). Others mentioned using a couple of drops of sewing silicone on the thread spool as an alternative (that would be Sewer's Aid, I think). One person mentioned having to get underneath the frame to spray silicone on the batik backing each time she advanced the quilt; otherwise she got skipped stitches.

Like any other fabric, some batiks will bleed; most won't. I don't prewash any of my fabrics, including batiks. Instead, I give the quilt its first washing as soon as it's finished, using Synthrapol in the washing machine water. Synthrapol suspends unset dye in the water so it washes away instead of staining other fabric. If there is a lot of dye in the first wash water, I would wash it again with Synthrapol before drying. Synthrapol is available in many quilt stores or online at places like Dharma Trading and ProChem.

Some people pre-test their fabrics for bleeding. One way is to cut off a small piece and drop it in water. You can also rub with a piece of damp white fabric to see if any dye transfers.

Since the "color catchers" are on the market, I'm not so much concerned about the color running as I am shrinkage.

Thanks for the info. I can now do the batik kit of precut squares and not worry.
Sharon

I agree, Sandpat. I even prewash, and dry, my batting. I remember years ago when I first started quilting, a friend at worked asked if I would make a small quilt as a gift for a friend. No problem, until I threw it in the wash to get out the pencil quilting marks. The batting shrunk and I ended up with an "antique" quilt (fortunately the colors were all muted so it looked right). I panicked until I brought it to work and waited for my friend's reaction. After all, she had paid for all the fabrics. Well..she loved it. PHEW!!!! But since then I prewash everything that's going into the project. If I could prewash the thread, I'd probably do that, too!!
Just sewing the appliques on the quilt now. Have the binding to go (anyone have any extra Robert Kaufman purple patina handpaint batik AMD-7016-6???) some embroidered names and dates, and it's ready to give. Hopefully I can post pictures if we ever get a camera that actually works.
bev. :]

I'm not sure if anyone has suggested this already, but here goes. In the Quilt University class on machine quilting, Carol Miller suggests top stitching needles for machine quilting on batiks. Because the fabric is boiled to release the wax they us to form the patterns, the weave is extremely close and may be more difficult to machine quilt. So maybe try a topstitching needle in your machine and see if that helps. Hope it does.

I use the same set up as you. Make sure it is leveled exactly. Measure both ends front and back. (along the top of the part where the wheels run. Even if you did it during set up, it may have been accidently moved. Even the slightest amount makes a difference. This happened to us. My sis measured, measured and remeasured until we had every area on the lower part of the fame level. Do you have anything on the top shelf other than the pantograph? If so remove it. The only time we had a problem with the shelf was when we had some stuff that had been put up there between quiltings. We never used the pantos, so I don't know how that would affect.

As for the batiks, we had problems with that as well. Some were fine and others caused problems. What Shelly said about the batiks is true. If you have a piece that you can put on the frame, with scrap batting and backing, you can experiment to see what works best.

So glad things are working out for you.

I prewash most of the time; but I fold it flat when warm from the dryer. I iron it before cutting.

Thanks for the advice, kd 124. The back center of the frame wasn't meeting so the carriage would have to hop every time it hit center. I started taking it apart and found that the screw and screw hole don't match up. If you screw it in, it 's back to machine jumping, so it's out. I don't know if that's the reason for all the vibration, but it rides smoother now. Now that there's nothing on the frame, or anything about to go on the frame, I'll do your measuring and remeasuring trick.
Putting on the binding now...hoohoo, it's ALMOST done!!!!!!!!!
bev.

Bev, glad you found a source of the vibration and got your quilting done.
Please post a pic when you get the binding on.

Anxious to see

Never posted pictures before so I hope I do this right.

Damn, I did something wrong. How to you make pictures smaller so they can be posted?? I thought I did. I can email them so isn't that small enough? Maybe I should take them from an email. That sounds silly. Anyway, the quilt is finished and the pictures are waiting to be posted. Anyone know how to do this??
Thanks.
bev.