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Scant 1/4" or full 1/4" seam allowance?
I'd like your opinion on 1/4" seam allowances. Do you always sew a scant 1/4" seam, or only when the pattern calls for it? I only use a scant if the pattern calls for it, but often my blocks end up being too small. Yet, some patterns specify scant and others do not. Is it a "given" that all seams are to be scant whether it says so or not? Thanks for your advice!
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It isn't about the seam allowance...it is all about the correct measurement of a finished block. Take 3 1.5" strips and sew together using your current method of getting the 1/4" seam. Then measure from the finished side of the middle strip, seam to seam. If you are 1" on the nose, you are doing it correctly. If you are off either way, then you adjust your seam allowance until you get the correct size needed. Or it may be a correction as simple as thread size or needle positioning. And when you change fabric thicknesses, you will need to check again. There are lots of variables and adjustments.
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The term '1/4 inch' seam is both a misnomer & a moving target. It's misnamed because you don't measure the seam, you measure the resultant patch. Here's a good way to check: Achieving an Accurate 1/4" Seam Allowance It's a moving target because different fabric and thread combos can make the seam placement different on different projects. Some folks are lucky with their 1/4" foot because it is positioned correctly for their fabric & thread choices. I have to move my needle position to get the seam where it needs to be, and if I use different thread or fabric, I recheck at the start of the project and adjust the needle position if needed. It only takes a couple minutes. Once you figure out where the seam should be, you may find that the foot guide isn't going to work, or your machine has a fixed needle position then you need to use a piece of tape or magnetic guide to create the correct seam. It really depends on how intricate your quilt pattern is and how much you want to fudge. I would rather spend 5 minutes at the beginning of a project verifying my seam, making adjustments if needed, then easily sewing everything together rather than stretching & easing stuff in to make it fit. That's just not fun for me. |
I always go a scant plus I use Aurifil thread. I used to have problems doing the civil war blocks that finish at 6 in but was always coming up short. My teacher told me about the Aurifil. The difference is that its only 2 threads instead of the normal 3 so its more accurate; especially when doing so many small seams in one small block. I was surprised when my blocks started coming out closer to the correct finshed size. Pressing your blocks really well also helps them come to size, I don't stetch them. Things that stretch will eventually stretch back.
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I really need to sort this 1/4 business.
I can't do anything right without pins and seamlines. Very time consuming and tedious. |
I was taught that the reason my blcoks were scant was because of the bump with pressing the seams to the side. A quilter taught me a trick whihc I still use to day. I position the line on the Omniruler just so that the fabric is line up with the top edge of the line so I have a fraction more in my cutting and my blocks come out perfectly. You have to find what works best for you. Good Luck.
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How you place your rulers when cutting also makes a difference.
Measure the original size of your pieces. They may be "scant." |
I'm a firm believer in pressing/flattening the heck out of a seam, so seldom need a 'scant' 1/4" seam. If I'm making HSTs or QSTs, I try to start with larger pieces of fabric, then stitch and trim to size. If I'm given a square that's not cut quite right (as in an exchange), I may use a 'scant' 1/4" seam on it, to compensate.
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How do you get the scant seam allowance?
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A scant 1/4" would be just a smidge towards the outside.
I don't overthink it and try to be consistent when sewing my seams. If i'm the only one making the block, it will all work out. If i'm in a block exchange, then i'm going to be more precise w/ the finished block size. |
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I teach a Beginning Piecing Workshop regularly. I teach my students that all seams in piecing are a scant 1/4". And, that everyone finds their scant 1/4" seam differently. I have them sew on a 1/4" graph paper to see where the edge of the paper hits when they are sewing just to the right side of the line on the graph paper. When I sit down to my machine, I bump the needle bar position over one notch to the right, and guide the edge of my fabric just inside the feed dogs. 2 students in my current class, bump their seam allowance over 2 notches, but have to use the regular presser foot instead of a quarter-inch foot. Some can do great with guiding the fabric along the quarter-inch foot, but most can't see the right side edge of that foot. Here's a picture of sewing on graph paper to find that scant 1/4".
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Great visual Annette!
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Originally Posted by Neesie
(Post 7102529)
I'm a firm believer in pressing/flattening the heck out of a seam, so seldom need a 'scant' 1/4" seam. If I'm making HSTs or QSTs, I try to start with larger pieces of fabric, then stitch and trim to size. If I'm given a square that's not cut quite right (as in an exchange), I may use a 'scant' 1/4" seam on it, to compensate.
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Originally Posted by Kitty10628
(Post 7102834)
I do this also.
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Donnai--My LQS owner told me to set my needle position one notch to the right and that would be a scant 1/4 inch. I never really checked it, but that is what I do now. It works out--I've also gotten pretty good at squeezing and stretching ( I know, that is a no no, but I do it anyway).
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I would only use it if pattern called for it most simple patterns all you need is stitch consistency
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Scant, every time.
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Thank you all for your ideas! There are so many good ideas here, I'm going to try all of them and see what works for me. I never thought that I may be cutting my fabric too small in the first place. I knew I'd get lots of help from this Board! Romanojg, I'm going to be making a sampler too, finishing at 6", so I really need to be accurate.
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I agree with Buckeye Rose and Paper Princess. There is SO MUCH discussion about 1/4" seams and the answer is in the measurement of the pieces being sewn together! Several things figure into this..the weight of the fabric, the thread you are using, etc. Don't dwell on the seam, but do make sure your pieces, when sewn together, are the correct measurement.
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Truly, unless you are swapping blocks, what does it matter? If you use your 1/4" on all the blocks, they should be all the same. Simple. Do not over think a fairly easy process!
If you are swapping blocks, measure like crazy until you finish with the desired size. |
I have a quarter inch foot on my Janome and I use that guide for all my seams whether it says scant or not. I have never been a fan of teachers or patterns that call for a scant 1/4".
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Originally Posted by lfletcher
(Post 7103541)
I have a quarter inch foot on my Janome and I use that guide for all my seams whether it says scant or not. I have never been a fan of teachers or patterns that call for a scant 1/4".
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I usually set my seam guide to a very scant 1/4"...basically, that's about a thread's width away from a perfect1/4". However, RARELY, IF EVER do I sew a perfect seam every time. I mean, really, with only a thread's width of tolerance, how could I be THAT perfect? (I tell my DH and kids that I'm, "perfect," but they all know that it's a snow job.) And what's more, does it really matter? So long as your blocks meet the size requirements, square up and match up with the other blocks, you should be fine.
~ Cindy |
Bonnie Hunter is one quilt designer who calls for "scant 1/4" seams in most, or a lot, of her patterns. I am going to try to figure out what I need to do/change on the pattern so that I can utilize a full 1/4" seam instead because some of my seams look more like 1/8" seams and I don't believe they should be that thin. And yes, I use Aurifil or other good thread.
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If you have a 1/4" foot for your machine, be sure to watch how you line it up. You may want to read the instructions that came with your machine to see how it needs to be lined up
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This has been so helpful - such good ideas.
And the link by paperprincess (posting #3) shows a great tutorial. Thanks to everyone! |
Originally Posted by AZ Jane
(Post 7103501)
Truly, unless you are swapping blocks, what does it matter? If you use your 1/4" on all the blocks, they should be all the same. Simple. Do not over think a fairly easy process!
If you are swapping blocks, measure like crazy until you finish with the desired size. |
Originally Posted by Madan49
(Post 7104610)
Ummm.... except when it DOES! As a pattern designer, I can tell you that it really does matter if you find your perfect 1/4" seam, even on your own blocks. As an example... say you're making a very simple block from a pattern, and it calls for a 4 patch unit to be attached to another piece. If the 4 patch you've sewn doesn't have accurately sewn seams, it will not match up to the square you've cut out to attach it to. You can't blame the pattern designer for that, but it is frustrating for you as the one sewing it. Every single project you ever sew will go faster and smoother in the future if you find out first where that accurate seam is. And the more seams in the pattern, the more that matters. It's not the "quilt police" talking here... it's someone trying to help you avoid future frustration. LOL!
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Use what works.If your blocks measure correctly using a full 1/4 in use that.But if you find they are too small back the seam allowance back a little.Use a scant 1/4 in.Make a few test seams to find out.I think of patterns as just a guide.Adjust what you need to to get what you want.....I hope this makes sense.
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Originally Posted by quiltedsunshine
(Post 7102601)
I teach a Beginning Piecing Workshop regularly. I teach my students that all seams in piecing are a scant 1/4". And, that everyone finds their scant 1/4" seam differently. I have them sew on a 1/4" graph paper to see where the edge of the paper hits when they are sewing just to the right side of the line on the graph paper. When I sit down to my machine, I bump the needle bar position over one notch to the right, and guide the edge of my fabric just inside the feed dogs. 2 students in my current class, bump their seam allowance over 2 notches, but have to use the regular presser foot instead of a quarter-inch foot. Some can do great with guiding the fabric along the quarter-inch foot, but most can't see the right side edge of that foot. Here's a picture of sewing on graph paper to find that scant 1/4".
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I think the " scant 1/4 inch seam allowance" is just another way to say " make sure your seam allowance is no more than 1/4 inch wide."
There are some that think that if "some" - of whatever - is good, "more" will be better. I also think that many garment sewers have been accustomed to using 5/8. Inch seam allowances. So that may also be part of the emphasis on the narrower seams. After using wide seams, that 1/4 inch does seem very skimpy. Examples - not exactly quilt related - maybe will help convey the idea. My FIL would use a heavy-weight four inch nail when a medium weight three inch nail would have been more than adequate. "Some" salt added to food enhances the flavor. Too much ruins it. If a size 12 looks good, a size 16 will look dumpy. If one aspirin will relieve the pain, three should mske it go away faster and the relief last longer. (Not really - but I do know that is how some people think.) As has been written many times, the seam allwance width is only part of the process of getting something the expected/wanted size. |
Just ran across this on face book. There are 4 videos, but the first 2 are all you need to watch... the others are a commercial for a tool . Hope it helps...
http://www.keepnuinstitchesquilting....nce-4-videos/2 |
Originally Posted by neesie
(Post 7103569)
amen! If the fabric is cut correctly, stitched correctly, and pressed correctly, there's seldom any need for skimping on that 1/4" seam. If the fabric isn't cut correctly, all bets are off.
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