Scant 1/4" or full 1/4" seam allowance?
02-23-2015, 06:31 AM
#1
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Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 47
Scant 1/4" or full 1/4" seam allowance?
I'd like your opinion on 1/4" seam allowances. Do you always sew a scant 1/4" seam, or only when the pattern calls for it? I only use a scant if the pattern calls for it, but often my blocks end up being too small. Yet, some patterns specify scant and others do not. Is it a "given" that all seams are to be scant whether it says so or not? Thanks for your advice!
02-23-2015, 07:38 AM
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Monroe, IN
Posts: 2,283
It isn't about the seam allowance...it is all about the correct measurement of a finished block. Take 3 1.5" strips and sew together using your current method of getting the 1/4" seam. Then measure from the finished side of the middle strip, seam to seam. If you are 1" on the nose, you are doing it correctly. If you are off either way, then you adjust your seam allowance until you get the correct size needed. Or it may be a correction as simple as thread size or needle positioning. And when you change fabric thicknesses, you will need to check again. There are lots of variables and adjustments.
02-23-2015, 08:00 AM
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 11,276
The term '1/4 inch' seam is both a misnomer & a moving target. It's misnamed because you don't measure the seam, you measure the resultant patch. Here's a good way to check:
Achieving an Accurate 1/4" Seam Allowance
It's a moving target because different fabric and thread combos can make the seam placement different on different projects. Some folks are lucky with their 1/4" foot because it is positioned correctly for their fabric & thread choices. I have to move my needle position to get the seam where it needs to be, and if I use different thread or fabric, I recheck at the start of the project and adjust the needle position if needed. It only takes a couple minutes. Once you figure out where the seam should be, you may find that the foot guide isn't going to work, or your machine has a fixed needle position then you need to use a piece of tape or magnetic guide to create the correct seam.
It really depends on how intricate your quilt pattern is and how much you want to fudge. I would rather spend 5 minutes at the beginning of a project verifying my seam, making adjustments if needed, then easily sewing everything together rather than stretching & easing stuff in to make it fit. That's just not fun for me.
Achieving an Accurate 1/4" Seam Allowance
It's a moving target because different fabric and thread combos can make the seam placement different on different projects. Some folks are lucky with their 1/4" foot because it is positioned correctly for their fabric & thread choices. I have to move my needle position to get the seam where it needs to be, and if I use different thread or fabric, I recheck at the start of the project and adjust the needle position if needed. It only takes a couple minutes. Once you figure out where the seam should be, you may find that the foot guide isn't going to work, or your machine has a fixed needle position then you need to use a piece of tape or magnetic guide to create the correct seam.
It really depends on how intricate your quilt pattern is and how much you want to fudge. I would rather spend 5 minutes at the beginning of a project verifying my seam, making adjustments if needed, then easily sewing everything together rather than stretching & easing stuff in to make it fit. That's just not fun for me.
Last edited by PaperPrincess; 02-23-2015 at 08:03 AM.
02-23-2015, 08:08 AM
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 5,397
I always go a scant plus I use Aurifil thread. I used to have problems doing the civil war blocks that finish at 6 in but was always coming up short. My teacher told me about the Aurifil. The difference is that its only 2 threads instead of the normal 3 so its more accurate; especially when doing so many small seams in one small block. I was surprised when my blocks started coming out closer to the correct finshed size. Pressing your blocks really well also helps them come to size, I don't stetch them. Things that stretch will eventually stretch back.
02-23-2015, 09:38 AM
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 19,131
I was taught that the reason my blcoks were scant was because of the bump with pressing the seams to the side. A quilter taught me a trick whihc I still use to day. I position the line on the Omniruler just so that the fabric is line up with the top edge of the line so I have a fraction more in my cutting and my blocks come out perfectly. You have to find what works best for you. Good Luck.
02-23-2015, 11:27 AM
#8
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Texas, USA
Posts: 5,896
I'm a firm believer in pressing/flattening the heck out of a seam, so seldom need a 'scant' 1/4" seam. If I'm making HSTs or QSTs, I try to start with larger pieces of fabric, then stitch and trim to size. If I'm given a square that's not cut quite right (as in an exchange), I may use a 'scant' 1/4" seam on it, to compensate.
02-23-2015, 11:55 AM
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: dayton OH
Posts: 1,911
A scant 1/4" would be just a smidge towards the outside.
I don't overthink it and try to be consistent when sewing my seams. If i'm the only one making the block, it will all work out. If i'm in a block exchange, then i'm going to be more precise w/ the finished block size.
I don't overthink it and try to be consistent when sewing my seams. If i'm the only one making the block, it will all work out. If i'm in a block exchange, then i'm going to be more precise w/ the finished block size.
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