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Originally Posted by purplefiend
Originally Posted by amma
I wish they would make a scant 1/4" foot!
I use my 1/4" foot and move the needle one click to the right :D:D:D Bernina. Its the #37 foot. I wish Viking made one. Most of the time I just move my needle over. I have the regular zig zag foot and zig zag plate on. |
Originally Posted by Candace
The 1/4" foot is NOT the issue and typically it's not the pattern either. You will have to move the needle position based on fabric and thread thickness as mentioned before. I have to move my needle when working with flannels(thicker) and the different brands and weights also affect the seam allowance. It's always best to do a test run of the fabrics you're using with the thread and move your needle over if need be. Usually I don't have to move my needle at all if I'm using LQS fabric with Aurifil 50 wt. thread. But, if I change any of those, I do a sample.
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just HOW scant is this scant 1/4"?? Is it 2 or 3 threads or is it a 32nd of an inch, or is it.....??
Not good to leave something open to individual interpretation. On the older machines, the needle is fixed at the end of the shank, period. |
Originally Posted by postal packin' mama
just HOW scant is this scant 1/4"?? Is it 2 or 3 threads or is it a 32nd of an inch, or is it.....??
Not good to leave something open to individual interpretation. On the older machines, the needle is fixed at the end of the shank, period. Singers have holes prethreaded for a screw to attach these, if you dont, there are also ones that are magnetic as long as the bed will attract a magnet, if not you are left with a piece or two of tape that is built up enough for the fabric to run along. This is the least desirable way becasue I hate adhesive tape any where near my machines, but many people use this method, and a little rubbing alcohol will usually remove the adhesive residue. :-D |
I have a 1/4 inch foot with guides for all my machines. You should be able to find one for yours. I have also moved my needle over to the right and used a regular foot by using the edge of the foot.
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I have selective sight,I read scant 1/4 as 1/4. I use a foot and make all my seams the same. I have been quilting for many many years of my 78 and have no trouble with my quilts.
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I struggle with "scant" also. My best results were when I measured with a ruler and taped a credit card down as a guide. Well that works until you have to do half-square triangles, then the guide gets in the way. Eventually, I just used my 1/4" foot as is. I'm sure it's not "scant", but as long as every seam is sewn the same way, there is no problem with matching seams and I am way happier with the results. If I were doing a block swap (which I generally don't do) maybe I would go back to "scant". I'm a much happier sewer and my blocks are more accurate just forgetting about the "scant".
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Createforless.com has the best price for Qtools Corner Ct 60 Ruler. Tool to line up a scant 1/4". Also, Marci Baker has a demo for Qtools to clarify. [h=1][/h]
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Originally Posted by Nolee
(Post 1762402)
I don't ever use the "scant" because I don't know the purpose of it. I have always used the 1/4" foot on everything with no problems. What IS the purpose of "scant" and who has such perfect eyesight that they don't wander a thread or two over or under on seams on every quilt anyway?
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I use a regular sewing foot and move the needle to measure 1/4". The reason that I use this foot is that it is wider and will grab/hold the fabric better. Less slipping and easier to sew.
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yes, I too just move my needle a click or two depending on what foot I have on. I do prefer to sew with a scant 1/4", I know this drives a lot of people crazy, but I would rather trim my finished block down in size, than have it come out too small, it is so frustrating to expect and need a 12" block and only have it comes out 11-7/8", and then the next one 11-3/4"...and those that do come out 12" are a little on the wonky side....I would rather they come out a true 12-1/8- 12-1/4" and be able to trim down to a nice square 12"
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Originally Posted by Anna O
(Post 1761661)
A 1/4" seams allowance should be fine for most projects. The only time a scant would really matter is if you have small piece and have a "gazillion" of them in your project. More important is to use the same sewing machine for the entire project. I haven't figured it out (and probably never will), but 1/4" seam on one machine isn't necessarily 1/4" seam on another, even if you use a 1/4" seam foot. Crazy, but true.
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Originally Posted by Prism99
(Post 1759007)
I don't rely on a foot. I use a strip of heavyweight moleskin and butt my fabric up against that as I sew. My seams turn out much more even that way.
To measure the scant 1/4" for moleskin placement, I place my favorite cutting ruler under the presser foot, make sure it is positioned fairly straight front-to-back, move my needle position one place to the right (with my older Bernina I have to do this in order for the moleskin to clear the feeddogs), lower the needle so that it touches the ruler just to the right of the 1/4" line, and lower the presser foot to hold the ruler in place. I have already cut the moleskin into strips using a ruler and rotary cutter, so I just remove the paper from the back of the moleskin and carefully position it so it is butted up against my ruler edge. Although I often use just a 2" or 3" long strip of moleskin, my preference if I am going to be sewing long strips together is to make the moleskin strip even longer, so it is guiding the fabric long before the fabric actually gets to the needle. Anyway, with this method I don't have to force my eyes to constantly look at the marking on a foot; as long as the fabric is butting up against the moleskin as it feeds, I am going to get a good seamline. As someone else mentioned, thread thickness can affect seam width. Once you have the moleskin positioned, it's a good idea to do a test of 3 2-1/2" strips sewn together so that, when ironed, you are sure the finished measurement is exactly what it should be. Moleskin is available in the foot section of pharmacies. It is a cushioning product sold for placing on heels, etc., to prevent blisters or protect a blister from rubbing. Great tip using the moleskin. It has a slight thickness to it unlike the tapes, which may be easier when trying to align the fabric before it gets to the foot. Thanks, Prism99! |
Thanks for all this info. You all are the greatest.
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Ask and ye shall receive:
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/viking-quarter-inch-foot-4123708-45.aspx
Originally Posted by purplefiend
(Post 1764815)
The only machine company that makes one that I know of is
Bernina. Its the #37 foot. I wish Viking made one. Most of the time I just move my needle over. I have the regular zig zag foot and zig zag plate on. |
I use Superior Threads ."Masterpiece" thread in the cones and sew at 1/4". I make sure the 1/4 is accurate br stitching two 2 1/4" strips together. Press then measure. If it comes out to be 4" wide i'm satisfied.
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Guidelines 4 Quilting makes a prep tool to get a 1/4" seam. It is a 1/4" ruler and you purchase their Seam Guides, (2" long each) which are thick and you lay the ruler next to your needle when it is down.
Then you take as many seam guides (I use 2) and lay them right next to the outside of the ruler. They are sticky on the bottom, but don't leave residue. This outfit is awesome!!! |
I have never understood why the 1/4 seam in the first place. We never used it in the past so what is the point? Everything now is based on this and I do not quilt even half of what I used to because it is so frustrating. Being on a fixed income it is hard to buy extra feet or anything else. Through venting now.
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Originally Posted by patdesign
(Post 1761256)
If your machine is a low shank, there is a vintage foot called a gauge presser foot, it will adjust to what size you want, I got mine on ebay for about $40, worth every penny.
I ran into a problem with the scant 1/4" when I was trying to make blocks for a swap on a sm list I'm on. The blocks had to finish at a certain size because of the swapping, not like you were making them all for your own quilt. I could NOT get the darned thing right and finally gave up, deciding I'd just make my own little quilt! For that one I was sewing on a Singer 201 treadle. At that time, I got some of the Qtools Sewing Edge from Alicia's Attic but by then I'd given up so haven't tried them yet. Last spring I wanted a blanket stitch for applique so got the Brother CS6000i but haven't used it a lot so it's good to know I can change the needle position on it....will try that out! And re Aurifil 50 thread....have wanted to get that too so will definitely now to see if it helps. When we had to use the scant 1/4" for that swap, I had never heard of it before and it was a bit bewildering! Do I understand right that so long as your seams are consistent, 1/4" instead of a scant wouldn't mess up the pattern? at this point I don't know if I ever want to try one again! |
watch this 4 minute video and see if the need for scant makes sense:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBoLP...eature=related |
Originally Posted by JanieW
(Post 5615037)
watch this 4 minute video and see if the need for scant makes sense:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBoLP...eature=related |
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