If you cut a block on the diagonal for the setting triangles, as dunster said you would have bias edges. Also you would lose the points of the star shapes. I don't have a program that I can play with your image to show what I mean. I would think if you could find some white or maybe even tone on tone white for the setting triangles that would be better for setting on point. Perhaps if you printed out the picture of your blocks and then cut the paper across the diagonal and then fold under the 1/4" edge, you might have a better idea of what it would look like.

In this video, if you skip to 15:17 or just watch it until that time, she shows how she lays out the squares on point and then lays out the sides and the corner triangles and then how she assembles it in rows. This way, you don't lose any points on your triangles. Jordan Fabrics Rock Star Quilt

I agree with dunster. Your blocks are lovely, don't cut them in half. Someone mentioned the need for a place for your eyes to rest. That resting place is part of the most attractive quilts. I avoided on-point settings for years, but had to just bite the bullet and give it a try because it was a group challenge quilt. My best advice is to take it slow and push your fears aside. Cut the setting blocks as directed. Somehow magic seems to happen and the end result is always beautiful. The side blocks are usually made from large blocks cut in half and the corner blocks are a large block cut in half on the diagonal both ways. Take your time, be brave and move ahead slowly until you "get it" and then revel in the end result of putting your blocks on-point. Courage my quilting friend, courage.

It's a weird bit of math in why seam allowances on the diagonal are not what you might think. Remember that triangles have their own study -- Trigonometry. The short (quilting) form is that when you are cutting diagonals, the formula is +7/8ths for the point, not the 1/4 for the square side.

I wouldn't cut the blocks for a number of reasons. BTW, love the blocks you are working with, looks like you are doing excellent work! I would use white? that forms the linking pattern or something with a white base (like the center squares) for the setting triangles. That would make the whole design sort of float.

My suggestion is:

Take a piece of paper and draw your block on it.

Then cut it in half and draw the seam lines in.

Notice how that messes up the block.

Then cut that piece in half for a QST shape , draw the seam ines in, and see what happens to your block.

My recommendation: do not cut up your pieced blocks.

Here is another link that might help. Their setting triangles are not on the bias.

https://www.generations-quilt-patter...triangles.html

I recently saw an on-point quilt where the quilt maker used the border fabric to make the setting triangles instead of using the background fabric. It was a very cool effect-like a funky frame.

So instead of trying to match the fabric in the blocks, maybe purchase a bold contrasting fabric for the setting, border and binding? Just another thought to have in the mix!!

Great idea! You could just put them on your printer and print out a few of your blocks to play with. You'll also get a good feel for how large your triangles need to be.

When I did a quilt with the blocks on point, I used an online guide like the ones posted. I thought "that can't be right" so I laid out the blocks on my design wall and cut paper the recommended size. Sure enough, they weren't too big. I used that size an outside of a few operator errors, the quilt went together well.

I think you’re asking why the setting triangles are larger than the side of your blocks. It’s because when you set a square on point, the diameter of the square (now the width of the block) is longer than the side of your square was. I believe it’s the length of the side x 1.4.

Looking at your blocks, it seems like they won’t connect in the intended way if set on point, but if you like the new look, go for it. I would not, myself, chop any up to make setting triangles, as I think it would destroy your design.

Better, I think, to find a new fabric to serve as a frame. I’ve used Kona to good effect that way. It frames the design and can, if you like, sort of drop back and lift the design area forward or bring out certain colors in your blocks,

hugs,
charlotte