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Dswiontek 01-15-2024 04:07 PM

Setting blocks on point
 
Hello, I just completed 30 each 12.5” quilt blocks. I don’t have extra fabric and would like to set them on point. I have read that the setting triangles and corners require much larger blocks. I’m wondering if I can cut some of the blocks in half for setting triangles and in quarters for the corners. Then cut 1/4” off all sides of the remaining blocks. Would that work?
Thanks for you help.

bkay 01-15-2024 04:22 PM

I can't tell you for sure if that would work. Logically speaking, yes it would. I'm just not sure about the 1/4 for the corners. I don't remember that from the quilt I made.

Usually, however, a solid/blender color is used for those spots, especially if there is no border. If you continue with more of the same blocks, where is a place for your eyes to rest? The idea being that maybe using the same block all the way to the edge makes it too busy?

I've only made one quilt set on point, and in addition to that, I'm not an expert quilter. I'm just giving you my opinion/thoughts.

bkay

quiltsfor 01-15-2024 05:30 PM

There are a few of them on the internet.

Here is a downloadable - free chart of setting on point. It tells you how big you need your side and top and bottom triangles (made from a square) by how big your blocks are. On-point setting guide by Fat Quarter Shop.

Here is another one (a downloadable/printable pdf) free from All People Quilt.com


Barb in Louisiana 01-15-2024 05:49 PM


Originally Posted by quiltsfor (Post 8632335)
There are a few of them on the internet.

Here is a downloadable - free chart of setting on point. It tells you how big you need your side and top and bottom triangles (made from a square) by how big your blocks are. On-point setting guide by Fat Quarter Shop.

Here is another one (a downloadable/printable pdf) free from All People Quilt.com

Thanks for the links for setting triangles. I never took the time to figure out the setting triangles and thus have avoided them as much as possible. I especially like that the formula for the calculations is shown on both pages.
Barb

polkweed 01-15-2024 06:01 PM

Once you account for squaring up and binding, you usually want at least an inch extra on side triangles and corners. Also cutting the side triangles like that is going to put the long side on the bias, making it a lot stretchier and harder to work with.

There's a good chance you'll loose some points doing it this way. If that really bothers you, then you might want to think about buying some more fabric and having the sides and corners be background.

stitch678 01-15-2024 06:07 PM

I found that the corner pieces are too small that way, as you will have lost seam allowance on both edges. The side ones will be a bit small as well with the seam allowance gone on the outside edge, but l found you can fudge that by sewing those with a 3/16 seam and short stitch length plus a narrow zigzag over the narrow seam allowances to keep from fraying.

OurWorkbench 01-15-2024 06:13 PM


Originally Posted by Dswiontek (Post 8632310)
Hello, I just completed 30 each 12.5” quilt blocks. I don’t have extra fabric and would like to set them on point. I have read that the setting triangles and corners require much larger blocks. I’m wondering if I can cut some of the blocks in half for setting triangles and in quarters for the corners. Then cut 1/4” off all sides of the remaining blocks. Would that work?
Thanks for you help.

Welcome, I'm not a quilter so take this with a grain of salt. I would think it would depend on the block. From my understanding if there are points at the edge of the block (for stars or half square triangles), there would be a quarter of inch from the point to the edge of the fabric. If you trimmed all the blocks 1/4" on all sides the points would be blunted when you seamed it. If it was rectangles or squares it is possible that it would distort the design.

I think that a solid or tone on tone would be better for the setting triangle would be better to keep the original blocks the same dimensions as intended, like bkay said --

Usually, however, a solid/blender color is used for those spots, especially if there is no border. If you continue with more of the same blocks, where is a place for your eyes to rest? The idea being that maybe using the same block all the way to the edge makes it too busy?
Perhaps if you posted a picture you may get some more ideas. Some people have trouble posting pictures so my usual response on how to do that is -
We like pictures. In order to post pictures on Quilting Board, you will probably need to reduce or compress the picture to a file size that is smaller than 2MB. How to post images can be found at https://www.quiltingboard.com/attach...020-01-17-.pdf
Don't forget to scroll over to the far right to find and click on the "Upload" button. As shown at https://www.quiltingboard.com/8565676-post4.html

I have found that only the big red "Reply" button or "Quote" work to give me the paper clip icon to work for adding pictures.
https://www.quiltingboard.com/attach...p-location.jpg

Some additional info regarding reducing images at post #4 and images for the scroll and upload button can be found at #5 of https://www.quiltingboard.com/main-f...d-t312607.html

Another way to post pictures can be found at https://www.quiltingboard.com/showpo...postcount=1143
And how to use an ipad to post pictures can be found at https://www.quiltingboard.com/qb-hel...s-t318147.html

Or simply - Make sure pictures are smaller than 2MB
Click on red "Reply" button
Click on the paper clip icon
Click browse - choose picture/s. (only 5 allowed per post)
Once they show up as being loaded, Scroll over to the right side and click on "Upload"
After the pictures show up as being attached, you can close that window and go back to the screen to finish posting your post.

Some additional notes -
The photos generally need to be reduced to less than 2MB in size. I have heard of people sending an email to themselves as it will ask if you want to reduce the size.

I have an android phone and when I tried to reply on Quilting Board while in mobile view None of the options for adding pictures was available. However, there is an option down at the bottom left of the page that is for Full Site when I tapped on "Full Site" It then looked like the way it looks on my lap top. So it would have the Red Reply and the Go Advanced options.

Do Not Preview post.

Dswiontek 01-15-2024 07:31 PM

Setting blocks on point
 
1 Attachment(s)
Hello,
Thank you all for your responses. I have included a photo showing four of the blocks. I don’t think the pattern “Mod Stars” would be negatively affected if the blocks are sewn on point. I guess I just don’t understand why the setting and corner pieces are supposed to be so much larger. My thought was to cut some of the blocks in half diagonally or in quarters then trim the remaining blocks to make it work. Thanks again for all your advice and help. I have never participated in a forum before so I appreciate your guidance.
Debbie

Dswiontek 01-15-2024 07:32 PM

Such a good suggestion to send a photo.

dunster 01-15-2024 08:01 PM

The squares used for the side setting triangles do seem large at first glance, but they're designed to avoid bias on the outside edge of the quilt. And - you get 4 setting triangles from each square.

Your blocks are lovely. It seems a shame to cut down all of them just so that you could use some of them for setting triangles, and I'm not sure that it would look right when you're done. Definitely you would have bias edges around the outside of the quilt top, and the piecing in those blocks might look odd.

I do think the blocks would look good set on point, because you would gain nice diagonal lines through the quilt. The pattern was written for a straight setting, and if you stick with that you wouldn't have to deal with setting triangles. Just a thought.

OurWorkbench 01-15-2024 08:53 PM

If you cut a block on the diagonal for the setting triangles, as dunster said you would have bias edges. Also you would lose the points of the star shapes. I don't have a program that I can play with your image to show what I mean. I would think if you could find some white or maybe even tone on tone white for the setting triangles that would be better for setting on point. Perhaps if you printed out the picture of your blocks and then cut the paper across the diagonal and then fold under the 1/4" edge, you might have a better idea of what it would look like.

quiltsfor 01-16-2024 04:09 AM

In this video, if you skip to 15:17 or just watch it until that time, she shows how she lays out the squares on point and then lays out the sides and the corner triangles and then how she assembles it in rows. This way, you don't lose any points on your triangles. Jordan Fabrics Rock Star Quilt

WMUTeach 01-16-2024 06:00 AM

I agree with dunster. Your blocks are lovely, don't cut them in half. Someone mentioned the need for a place for your eyes to rest. That resting place is part of the most attractive quilts. I avoided on-point settings for years, but had to just bite the bullet and give it a try because it was a group challenge quilt. My best advice is to take it slow and push your fears aside. Cut the setting blocks as directed. Somehow magic seems to happen and the end result is always beautiful. The side blocks are usually made from large blocks cut in half and the corner blocks are a large block cut in half on the diagonal both ways. Take your time, be brave and move ahead slowly until you "get it" and then revel in the end result of putting your blocks on-point. Courage my quilting friend, courage.

Iceblossom 01-16-2024 06:07 AM

It's a weird bit of math in why seam allowances on the diagonal are not what you might think. Remember that triangles have their own study -- Trigonometry. The short (quilting) form is that when you are cutting diagonals, the formula is +7/8ths for the point, not the 1/4 for the square side.

I wouldn't cut the blocks for a number of reasons. BTW, love the blocks you are working with, looks like you are doing excellent work! I would use white? that forms the linking pattern or something with a white base (like the center squares) for the setting triangles. That would make the whole design sort of float.

bearisgray 01-16-2024 08:44 AM

My suggestion is:

Take a piece of paper and draw your block on it.

Then cut it in half and draw the seam lines in.

Notice how that messes up the block.

Then cut that piece in half for a QST shape , draw the seam ines in, and see what happens to your block.

My recommendation: do not cut up your pieced blocks.

paddingtonbear 01-16-2024 12:07 PM

Here is another link that might help. Their setting triangles are not on the bias.

https://www.generations-quilt-patter...triangles.html

LI_diva 01-16-2024 03:33 PM

I recently saw an on-point quilt where the quilt maker used the border fabric to make the setting triangles instead of using the background fabric. It was a very cool effect-like a funky frame.

So instead of trying to match the fabric in the blocks, maybe purchase a bold contrasting fabric for the setting, border and binding? Just another thought to have in the mix!!

cashs_mom 01-16-2024 05:24 PM


Originally Posted by bearisgray (Post 8632440)
My suggestion is:

Take a piece of paper and draw your block on it.

Then cut it in half and draw the seam lines in.

Notice how that messes up the block.

Then cut that piece in half for a QST shape , draw the seam ines in, and see what happens to your block.

My recommendation: do not cut up your pieced blocks.

Great idea! You could just put them on your printer and print out a few of your blocks to play with. You'll also get a good feel for how large your triangles need to be.

When I did a quilt with the blocks on point, I used an online guide like the ones posted. I thought "that can't be right" so I laid out the blocks on my design wall and cut paper the recommended size. Sure enough, they weren't too big. I used that size an outside of a few operator errors, the quilt went together well.

charlottequilts 01-17-2024 07:02 PM

I think you’re asking why the setting triangles are larger than the side of your blocks. It’s because when you set a square on point, the diameter of the square (now the width of the block) is longer than the side of your square was. I believe it’s the length of the side x 1.4.

Looking at your blocks, it seems like they won’t connect in the intended way if set on point, but if you like the new look, go for it. I would not, myself, chop any up to make setting triangles, as I think it would destroy your design.

Better, I think, to find a new fabric to serve as a frame. I’ve used Kona to good effect that way. It frames the design and can, if you like, sort of drop back and lift the design area forward or bring out certain colors in your blocks,

hugs,
charlotte


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