Sewing machine advice - Brother LX2375
 

I am very new to quilting. I am just getting ready to start my very first quilt. I was going to do the entire quilt by hand, but now I am thinking about using a sewing machine. I have a Brother LX2375, but never really used it much because I could never get it to work right. That however could be due to operator error. I have read that I cannot use this machine for quilting due to the needle height not being adjustable. Does anyone know about these machines? Also, if I would decide to buy a new machine, what would a good one be for someone just starting out sewing and quilting?

Welcome to the Quilting Board and happy quilting.

Welcome from NJ. I'm not familiar with Brother machines in general and certainly not your specific model. That said, I see no reason why you can't, at least, piece your quilt top with that machine. Any machine can do that! Quilting the sandwich is a whole 'nother issue. Needle height should not be an issue but throat size could certainly be a challenge if it's small.

What type of problems have you had with the machine that it's not 'working right'? Give us some details and I'm sure someone will be along that will have some advice/solutions for you.

I was just using one of these the other day at a friend's house! So, like they say on Reddit, AMA! (Ask Me Anything!)

You can find a manual for the series here if you don't have one: Quick Start Manual And here is the full size manual. I'll try to monitor the board in case you need help.

Thank you. The machine I have was a Black Friday special that I paid $30 or $40 for. I thought I saw somewhere that it was a discontinued model. I have looked through the manual online as I cannot find where mine went. The specific problems I have been having are:
1. Thread breaking - this could be due to me not pulling the thread out and holding on to it when I start to sew.
2. Thread getting bunched up or putting a big wad of thread on the bottom of the fabric. - Could this be a tension issue?
3. Fabric puckering as I sew - not sure what would cause this...tension again?
4. I also have trouble with controlling the foot pedal. I push soft and it doesn’t go, then I push harder and it takes off. - this I’m sure is operator error and I just need to find that groove

It has been years since I even had it out, so not sure where my tension or stitch length or width were set at. Or more important...where they should be set at.

N.J. - I don’t know what you mean by throat size. I would need to buy a walking foot for the quilting correct?

1) When is the thread breaking? While you're sewing a seam, or right at the start?
2) Thread getting bunched up: If this is happening at the start of a seam, this is probably because you're not holding onto both thread tails at the start.
3) Fabric puckering as you sew: Are you holding the fabric tightly when you sew? Does your machine have the ability to change the presser foot tension? (could be too tight)
4) Controlling the foot pedal: Yes, this is part of the "getting used to it" part, but I've heard that some folks were able to put a block of wood under the part that you press down so that it stops you from pressing it all the way down. There's usually a little tiny lip around the top of the foot pedal, so you'd have to figure out how to prop the block without everything sliding around. Your machine may or may not have a little slider where you can set the maximum speed of the needle - one of my machines cannot do this, and the other can. It's usually on the front of the machine above where the needle is.

"Throat size" or "Harp" of the machine is the distance from the needle to the base of the machine directly to the right. The amount of space you have inside the inner curve of the machine because that's where you would be bunching up a quilt if you were quilting it. My primary machine has a throat of 6.5in and I've quilted a few Queen and King sized quilts on it! It can be done! The shape of the throat is also important for greatest volume of space. Some Brother machines are very circular shaped there which makes it harder, while my Janome is quite square so there is more room.

eta: Forgot to say Welcome to the Board!! There are so many wonderful folks here with so much information and an abundance of creativity and talent. This is a fabulous journey you're starting and I'm so excited for you! You don't "have" to buy a walking foot for quilting, though it is helpful for stitching in the ditch and quilting straight(ish) lines. Usually you can find a generic one quite affordably. You would need an embroidery foot/darning foot/FMQ foot (there are a variety, but generics are also quite affordable) if you wanted to try your hand at free motion quilting. I quilted my first quilt with no walking foot and I did wish that I had one. You just need to know if your machine is a low shank or high shank, but the manual probably will tell you that? If not, you can bust out a ruler and measure!

The thread would break and/or bunch up on the bottom side while stitching the seam. The puckers were usually at the start of sewing. It does not have speed control. As far as the throat size and shank I don’t know. How did you quilt without the walking foot? I believe this machine has a darning plate and a different foot for embroidery. But not sure how to use all that with quilting.

I am not a tension expert by any means but it does sound like your top tension might be a tad too tight. Turn your tension dial - ever so slightly - to the left. Make very small adjustments until it is sewing properly with no puckers or thread nests. And do check your threading of the machine. Actually, do that before adjusting your tension. Also check your bobbin threading.

Some newer machines say you don't need to hold onto the thread tails. Being a dinosaur myself, I still always do that. Yes, you may use more thread that way but it does reduce lots of problems.

Since it's been years since you've used the machine, I would take it to a sewing machine service person and have it serviced, but before I paid, I would ask the repair person if the machine was worth repairing. Personally, I'd buy a different machine. I wouldn't necessarily buy a new machine, especially a Singer, something with more throat space. You can usually find vintage machines reasonably priced, they will have more throat space and not a lot can go wrong with them. I love my vintage machines.

Welcome from Michigan!:)

My first machine was a Brother. I think you should have no problems doing the piecework on that machine ... And it would be a wonderful training exercise to teach your foot how to behave on the pedal and how to adjust tension and control bunching. I think when it comes to the quilting the machine would be overwhelmed but you could certainly make the top.
I would be concerned about starting a hand sewing project of this size...it seems a recipe for failure/ UFO/ unfinished object but that's ME and not YOU. You do you! I'll be over here with the pom-poms cheering!

Welcome to the QB from SE Michigan! If your manual says not to use for quilting then I would not attempt to make a quilt on it. You do not want to ruin your quilt, especially since you are struggling already with the machine. There is a lot of weight to a quilt and management with a Domestic Machine is important. It is always good to learn to hand quilt. Be sure to secure you sandwich well. I prefere safety pins about 4" apart. This is a lot of work but worth it in the end. Then a hoop that fits your lap comfortably.
If none of this is what you want there is always long arm quilting to be considered.

I do not think you need to go out and buy a different machine quite yet nor do I think you need to have it serviced - the cost of servicing is likely not worth what you even paid for the machine upfront.

Agree with NJ Quilter - please double check the manual and make sure you've threaded it correctly? Overstock.com had over 40 reviews on this machine and a couple people mentioned the threading was kind of tricky? I don't know this particular machine so I couldn't say, but I know threading my featherweight is still tricky for me!

In regards to what kind of shank, here is a link that explains it pretty well: https://madamsew.com/blogs/sewing-bl...s-presser-feet

As to how big a throat you have, you simply get out your ruler and measure the distance from the needle to the base of the machine directly to the right. Basically, how wide the "hole" of the machine is.

I do also suspect that your top tension is too tight, so keep making small adjustments and seeing how the stitches look as you sew a new seam. Here's a brief article on tension: https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/easi...ension-2821432

You should be able to piece with your machine. Depending on size of quilt the harp on your machine is small so a baby or throw might be doable but a large would be tasking. I suggest taking a basic sewing machine class at an lqs to get familiar with your machine. I have used all levels of brothers and never really get tension issues but if you mess up the bobbin case bad you can have major issues but brothers are easy to use. I would email brother for a manual to download

So, I measured from the foot to the screw and it measures 1 1/2" and the throat measures 6 1/2" from needle to inside edge. From top to bottom it measures 5 1/2". I have come to a couple of conclusions:
1. This board is awesome!!! Everyone is so helpful!! I am so glad that I found this board. It has been a lifesaver.
2. I have a book on first time quilting for absolute beginners that starts with small projects like potholders and coasters, then works up to placemats and table runners and then ends with a lap quilt. Each project is designed to teach new skills and build on the others. I am going to start here. I figure this will not only give me some good sewing and quilting experience first before I take on a big project. I discovered today that there is a quilt shop 60 miles away and one 120 miles away. I have reached out to the one that is 120 miles away, but have not tired to reach the closer one. I figured, I will just stop in there sometime.
3. I think I am going to try my machine with the small projects and look for a different machine in the meantime. I have a few questions out to quilt shops and family who quilt to find some recommendations. I figured by the time I get to the lap quilt, I should have figured out which machine to get.

That being said. Starting with the small objects, if my machine will quilt them do I just leave the normal presser foot on or should I put the darning plate and the darning foot on? Also, do I need to adjust tension and stitch length and width? The manual does not give instructions for quilting. I will check the quilting book.
I of course will play with the machine first and get the tension right for the piecing and then I can test with some cloth and batting and see what it does.

You should be able to quilt those small projects you plan to start with on your machine. If you plan to do just some straight line quilting you really should not need to change to the darning plate/foot. I am able to do straight line quilting on my machine with my regular piecing foot. That said, I did recently invest in a walking foot for mine and it does make life much easier, lol. The throat on my machine is a bit larger than yours and I was able to quilt a king sized quilt. Granted, there was lots of pushing and pulling of the quilt but it was doable.

You will need to adjust your stitch length when quilting the sandwich. You may need to adjust tension as well. Make up a practice sandwich to test your settings before working on your 'real' project. Use the same fabrics/batting for your practice sandwich.

If you plan to do free motion quilting (FMQ) you may need to change feet/plate. I have no clue on that front but someone will be along shortly to advise on that aspect.