Originally Posted by mea12
(Post 7226066)
I would like to quilt my giant king in horizontal straight rows but don't feel it will be easily done on my 9" harp machine. I thought about cutting the batting into thirds across the width of the batting and sandwiching/basting that middle section first. then using fusible batting tape to join the top third and bottom third? That way I'd not have as much bulk under the harp when working that middle section while trying to sew straight lines across the width of the quilt. Does this seem feasible? And if so, any precautions/tips for me?
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The visible tape works well and would think that as long as you quilt over it sufficiently. Good luck with your project and make to show it to us.
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I am Marti Michell's husband. #5, Dunster is right about the "Machine Quilting In Sections" book. It was published in 2004 and still sells well. Can we call it "Classic?" When you can, use the gentle curve method to cut your batt when you are going to put it back together. The gentle curve avoids a weak line in the batt created by a straight line cut. Plug for a product! Our Fusible tape is the only one we have seen marketed for quilting that is made from non-woven fabric. All the others we have seen are knits. Non-woven is more difficult to feel in the quilt because it is thinner; stability is wanted, not the flex of knits, and non-woven delivers it; non-wovens are much less expensive than knits and our 2" width is much more suitable for gently curved cuts.
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Originally Posted by rtm
(Post 7227936)
I am Marti Michell's husband. #5, Dunster is right about the "Machine Quilting In Sections" book. It was published in 2004 and still sells well. Can we call it "Classic?" When you can, use the gentle curve method to cut your batt when you are going to put it back together. The gentle curve avoids a weak line in the batt created by a straight line cut. Plug for a product! Our Fusible tape is the only one we have seen marketed for quilting that is made from non-woven fabric. All the others we have seen are knits. Non-woven is more difficult to feel in the quilt because it is thinner; stability is wanted, not the flex of knits, and non-woven delivers it; non-wovens are much less expensive than knits and our 2" width is much more suitable for gently curved cuts.
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I would get to some large tables (library, town hall, church hall), and let the quilted part hang over the edge, but caught by large clamps onto the edge of the table(s). Then the unquilted part could be pulled taut and clamped or taped to the other side of the table(s).
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Originally Posted by Jingle
(Post 7227142)
Trying to keep the backing from getting caught in the stitching would be hard for me. If I were to try this I would have to think very hard about it.
Good luck and I hope it works for you. |
Originally Posted by maviskw
(Post 7228312)
I would get to some large tables (library, town hall, church hall), and let the quilted part hang over the edge, but caught by large clamps onto the edge of the table(s). Then the unquilted part could be pulled taut and clamped or taped to the other side of the table(s).
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I use this method a lot! I use the school glue method. I leave the backing all in one piece and mark the batting with a L and R after I cut the sides off - so I know how to reattach them. Put the L/R on both pieces of the batting where you cut the batting off. I do not quilt to the end of the batting - I leave around 4" on each side and pin on the edge so I don't go over the 4". This way there is enough room to attach the fusible interfacing that I use to put the batting back together. I have used the whipped stitching also, but prefer the fusible interfacing. I buy a yard, and cut it into 1" to 1 1/2" strips and just iron it on. I hope this makes sense. I roll up the edges of the loose piece of flimsy and backing to keep it out of the way, usually not a problem.
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WOW - great idea. This surely would reduce the bulk on a standard home sewing machine. I'll give it a go! Thanks
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