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Chester the bunny 09-18-2012 02:29 PM

Sometimes my Kenmore will skip stitches if I use certain brands. Believe me I'm not picky as I will use anything. If it gives me grief on the top, I just put the thread in the bobbin and it works just fine.

QuiltnLady1 09-18-2012 02:39 PM

I sew with a lot of metalics -- the only thread that consistently breaks is one of the sulky metalics (not all colors, just one). The first time I had trouble with it was in my Elna Supra, then my Pfaff and both of my Janomes. I avoid the color -- not all of them. I don't like invisible thread so I have not tried it. I sew with the C&C all the time -- it and Superior are my go to piecing threads -- and quilting threads. When I can get RA or Aurifil at 50% off, I buy it. My favorite metalic is madeira -- it has tons of colors that I can use to add a little bling.

maryb119 09-18-2012 03:01 PM

My machine like the better thread. My dealer said to avoid Coats and Clark because of the lint it produces. I prefer Metler or Robinson-Anton thread. Gutterman is good too.

quilter1943 09-18-2012 03:45 PM

I have Pfaff and Janome machines and my issue seems to be - also with my Viking Mega Quilter - that the bobbin and top threads need to be compatable. Anyone else have problems with different threads in bobbin and top? I don't have an issue with any thread in the machines as long as I do this.

lfletcher 09-19-2012 03:39 AM


Originally Posted by thepolyparrot (Post 5524024)
I think so, too. A machine uses whatever I put into it, or I'll find out what's "off" and make it work.

Of course, I don't try to use hand-quilting thread or rope in the needle - there are some things that a domestic sewing machine will not do.

But lots of times, I see people saying that their machine won't take anything but "X" brand of thread and I would take that as a challenge. I would want to tinker around and figure out how to make it take the kind of thread they want to use. Usually it's only a matter of changing the needle and/or balancing the tensions.

If I ran across a lot of reviews for a machine that said, "You can only use X brand" in this machine, I just wouldn't buy it.

I see this a LOT with longarm machines - and as much as you pay for a longarm, that machine better sew whatever you give it to sew! :D

You are right that you do see comments from a lot of longarm quilters that their machine prefers certain thread. I'm fairly certain my machine can use any thread, but I have a fear of messing too much with the tension settings. I have a gauge for the bobbin tension and I am just now getting comfortable branching out a bit on different thread. If you're willing to spend some time playing with the tension, I bet any machine could be made to use any thread. (I'm just not willing to spend that time--rather be quilting.)

romanojg 09-19-2012 03:44 AM


Originally Posted by QuiltnLady1 (Post 5524353)
I sew with a lot of metalics -- the only thread that consistently breaks is one of the sulky metalics (not all colors, just one). The first time I had trouble with it was in my Elna Supra, then my Pfaff and both of my Janomes. I avoid the color -- not all of them. I don't like invisible thread so I have not tried it. I sew with the C&C all the time -- it and Superior are my go to piecing threads -- and quilting threads. When I can get RA or Aurifil at 50% off, I buy it. My favorite metalic is madeira -- it has tons of colors that I can use to add a little bling.

The Floriani rep said that no matter what brand if you turn the spool of metalics upside down when you sew you won't have any problems with breakage. You could always try.

romanojg 09-19-2012 03:46 AM


Originally Posted by quilter1943 (Post 5524456)
I have Pfaff and Janome machines and my issue seems to be - also with my Viking Mega Quilter - that the bobbin and top threads need to be compatable. Anyone else have problems with different threads in bobbin and top? I don't have an issue with any thread in the machines as long as I do this.

Sure do, it is recommended to always use the same in top and bottom. I've tried the "bobbin thread" in my Ruby and it messes up every time. So I just don't use it. It's not worth trouble shooting to find out why when I have lots of other thread to use.

nhweaver 09-19-2012 04:51 AM

My Janome 10000 is over 11 years old now - and uses any thread that is on the market, or is vintage (I thrift store alot).

It is a different story with my 2 year old viking sapphire 875 Q, picky little sucker. The bobbin area is plastic and poorly made and any bit of lint gives me an error message (remove thread from bobbin area or something like that).
Never again will I buy a viking. it has been in the shop 2 times for minor repairs (at $175 a pop). now a tiny blade has fallen off from one of those junky plastic rings that holds the bobbin in, don't know how to put it back. Run away from this machine.

AlienQuilter 09-19-2012 04:54 AM

I have a Juki 98TLQ and it's a workhorse. It's very strong so the thread has to be strong. I can not sew with any of the invisible threads - snaps the thread every time. Coats and Clarks works just fine in it as does the cone thread.

My Babylock Espire sews with all the thread I have and I have quite a collection.

Sometimes it's not the machine - it's the fabric you are trying to sew. I found out that when making my husbands t-shirt quilt that the only invisible thread that did not break was the Sulky brand. Trying to sew through t-shirt material with the pellon fusible was difficult.

And then sometimes sewing with the wrong size needle for the fabric you are sewing. I always keep my manual handy and if I have a problem with sewing start checking for the problem.

BellaBoo 09-19-2012 06:58 AM

C&C has started to sponsor many quilt shows and buy the big ads in the magazines. I've noticed more endorsement of C&C thread in the past two years then ever before. The oldest thread and the most profitable thread company can't have bad thread or it wouldn't still be in business. Industry wouldn't use it. That is just plain sense.


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