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i use a 2.5 that is what my sewing book for my machine suggested and ive been happy with it
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Berta48
Originally Posted by New knee
If you are thinking of quilting in the ditch (which I hate to do), and your machine has different stitches, use a serpentine stitch and that way you don't have to stay strictly in the ditch because the stitches move from side to side of the ditch.
curvy or wavy |
Originally Posted by Poodles
What is SID and how does it work
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Thanks PatDesign for the info. I have a lot too learn too say the least. I am never gonna get any sewing done cause I keep reading the boards and trying too learn stuff
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Yea, 3.0 sounds about right to me, sometimes I do 3.5 or 4.0 for actual topstitching. I like my FMQ stitches to be really tight and close together not the 1/8" they tell you. Maybe it's a question of me not being good enough to get the 1/8" and I'm settling for the tighter stitches, LOL that's probably closer to the truth.
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I'm currently quilting a lap quilt. I like the longer stitch look, and set it to 3.5 for the straight stitching. However, my FMQ part is much tinier (not on purpose, I'm just bad at it) so there is inconsistency.
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Jo, do you use the same thread on the bobbin?
Thanks for all this great information!
Originally Posted by Jo Belmont
I have learned a somewhat different technique (and consequently, I think, a much better look) for machine quilting:
First of all, use a TOPSTITCH NEEDLE. Schmetz labels "Topstitch" right on the cards holding packets of needles. They come in different sizes. I use a 12. The difference is that the topstitch needles have a larger hole which is made to accommodate a bit heavier thread --- it's that heavier thread which also makes the difference. They are also very sharp and penetrate the several layers quite nicely. The THREAD is often sold as just that, "Topstitch", but technically, it (at least the Coats & Clark that I use) is labeled "HEAVY," but there is no gauge shown. It is similar to hand quilting weight thread but without the stiffness of the glace/wax. It is 100% polyester and as with most threads, comes in gorgeous colors. PLEASE NOTE: IT IS NOT THE "HEAVY" ONE THINKS OF FOR BUTTONHOLES, ETC. --- the buttonhole thread is so labeled. I usually use regular weight thread in the bobbin, but the heavy could be used as well (it just would wind less on the bobbin because of its thickness). Next, when starting/stopping a line of quilting, I hold back on the fabric so that I get a double or triple stitch in one place which is a good lock without the forward/back overstitch look. The length of stitch I use is pretty close to 10-12 per inch and gives a nice look while still being very secure. (Run a line of stitching on a scrap and count stitches until you find your machine number which yields the correct number per inch. With a walking foot, the stitches should remain about the same, but adjust if needed.) Summarily: A topstitch needle and heavy thread stitching out at 10-12 stitches per inch. Hope this helps. |
Originally Posted by newestnana
Jo, do you use the same thread on the bobbin?
Thanks for all this great information!
Originally Posted by Jo Belmont
I have learned a somewhat different technique (and consequently, I think, a much better look) for machine quilting:
First of all, use a TOPSTITCH NEEDLE. Schmetz labels "Topstitch" right on the cards holding packets of needles. They come in different sizes. I use a 12. The difference is that the topstitch needles have a larger hole which is made to accommodate a bit heavier thread --- it's that heavier thread which also makes the difference. They are also very sharp and penetrate the several layers quite nicely. The THREAD is often sold as just that, "Topstitch", but technically, it (at least the Coats & Clark that I use) is labeled "HEAVY," but there is no gauge shown. It is similar to hand quilting weight thread but without the stiffness of the glace/wax. It is 100% polyester and as with most threads, comes in gorgeous colors. PLEASE NOTE: IT IS NOT THE "HEAVY" ONE THINKS OF FOR BUTTONHOLES, ETC. --- the buttonhole thread is so labeled. I usually use regular weight thread in the bobbin, but the heavy could be used as well (it just would wind less on the bobbin because of its thickness). Next, when starting/stopping a line of quilting, I hold back on the fabric so that I get a double or triple stitch in one place which is a good lock without the forward/back overstitch look. The length of stitch I use is pretty close to 10-12 per inch and gives a nice look while still being very secure. (Run a line of stitching on a scrap and count stitches until you find your machine number which yields the correct number per inch. With a walking foot, the stitches should remain about the same, but adjust if needed.) Summarily: A topstitch needle and heavy thread stitching out at 10-12 stitches per inch. Hope this helps. Live outside the box; it's a great adventure! |
If it is fmq you are talking about, I was told to put the stitch on 0, and that is what I have been doing. God bless.
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Originally Posted by May in Jersey
When stitching in the ditch I use a larger stitch size, usually 3.5 or 4. First I make a little sample quilt with some scraps, about 4" x 12", to check out stitch size and also thread color before I begin quilting. I find that the larger stitch doesn't pucker the fabric.
I leave thread tails where I begin stitching and where I end stitching. I later go back and bring front threads to the back, tie the front and back threads together and bury them in the quilt sandwhich. This is a pain in the butt but I do it because I tried beginning and ending with 0 stitch length but it doesn't always look as nice as I would like it to. My Pfaff has a built in walking foot so that helps a lot. May in Jersey |
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