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Thread: Puckers EVERYWHERE

  1. #1
    Senior Member Prissnboot's Avatar
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    Puckers EVERYWHERE

    I tried for the very first time EVER to do the Amazing School Glue Baste trick that people on this board just rave about, except like everything else I try for the first time, it DIDN'T WORK. Puckers EVERYWHERE on the backside OF COURSE.

    I laid the backing down, then the batting on top of it and pulled the backing up and put the glue down then smoothed the batting over the backing. Then I put the top on the backing and pulled the top back and applied the glue, then smoothed the top over the backing again. Seemed simple enough, right?

    The top looks fine, pucker free, so I'm wondering if it is possible to just pull the backiing off and reglue it to the batting. I used regular Elmer's school glue - if I spritz it with water and let the water settle a little bit, will this work? I'm thinking this should work, since the glue supposedly comes out in the wash when you wash the finished quilt.
    She looks for wool and flax And works with her hands in delight.

  2. #2
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    You can try spritzing it with water and see if it releases. When I fuse my Hobbs 80/20 fusible batt, I do the front first and then the back. I want the back the smoothest because I can see the front if I develop a problem. This trick may help the next time you fuse.

  3. #3
    Super Member EasyPeezy's Avatar
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    I had the same problem when attempting Elmers school glue basting. Please let
    us know if you find a solution to those puckers. I would love to use glue for
    basting but don't need the puckers.

  4. #4
    Super Member Neesie's Avatar
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    The problem is that fabric slips. You need to put the batting down, first. THEN put either the top or backing onto it. Glue. Smooth. Let dry. Then flip it all over and do the other piece. Always have the batting underneath the fabric, to be glued.
    Last edited by Neesie; 10-26-2012 at 09:30 PM.
    Neesie


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  5. #5
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    I think the glue STICKS are easy to work with, not a liquid. And I just use it for binding or a little area, not the whole quilt.

  6. #6
    Power Poster BellaBoo's Avatar
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    Just pull the fabric off the batting. I used glue and decided I didn't like the backing after two weeks. I pulled the backing off the batting (cotton). I washed the backing and put it back in my stash. Elmer's School glue is a not a glue but a heavy starch. Water will dissolve it. If you dilute the glue with water to make a spray, don't use a very hot iron to press it, the starch will scorch if it is thinned.
    Got fabric?

  7. #7
    Super Member Stitchnripper's Avatar
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    I have done mine like Neesie, batting down first, backing over that, small sections, and make sure it is smooth. When dry turn over and do front. 3 done this way and no puckers. I don't dilute the glue, but drizzle a small bead over the batting.

  8. #8
    Super Member Deborahlees's Avatar
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    This is how I do it.....I put the wrong side up of the backing, on my average size dinning room table, then put down the batting, then the top....I make sure all my edges are correct, I generally cut by batting 2" wider all around, and then my batting 3" wider than top, using this method I can see the edge of my top, the edge of the batting and the edge of the backing all the way around, and know everything is square and good to go......
    Next I run a row of safety pins in the middle from right to left, about 8 inches apart, this gives you a ' center flip point'...
    Now what I like to do is the top first, so I flip the top to the middle (against the pins) drizzle my ESG (Elmer's SCHOOL Glue) in a thin lazy circle motion about 10-12" ON THE BATTING.....fold down the top and smooth with your hands until the section is wrinkle free, then fold back the top to the bottom of the previous glue, and drizzle again, flip down, smooth and continue until you have the top half done. At the point I spin the top around and do the other side in the same manner, only drizzling about 12" down at a time, do not worry if some of the glue soaks thru the top, it will dry and it will wash out......once the top is done...walk away for lets say 30-60 minutes, this will allow the glue to dry.... Now flip over your quilt having the un-glued backing on top and the dry smooth top on the bottom. You still have the safety pin row in the middle, that has kept everything together. Do exactly as you did for the top, flipping to the pin line, drizzling glue onto the batting and smoothing down the backing. YOU CAN GET IT AS SMOOTH AS GLASS.....once the back is done, and everything is smooth, I like to let it set for several hours or over night if possible....both sides should be very smooth, you will not have any wrinkles, your needle will not get gummed up and after your binding is on just throw it into the washer.....or not I hope this helps some people with this great cheap method.....if you need more help PM me
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  9. #9
    Senior Member schwanton's Avatar
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    This method of preparing the fabric and batting with pins also works for basting spray.
    Fabrics are like chocolate, I can never get enough!

  10. #10
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    What a good explanation. I will definately try this. Thanks

  11. #11
    Senior Member Grannyh67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deborahlees View Post
    This is how I do it.....I put the wrong side up of the backing, on my average size dinning room table, then put down the batting, then the top....I make sure all my edges are correct, I generally cut by batting 2" wider all around, and then my batting 3" wider than top, using this method I can see the edge of my top, the edge of the batting and the edge of the backing all the way around, and know everything is square and good to go......
    Next I run a row of safety pins in the middle from right to left, about 8 inches apart, this gives you a ' center flip point'...
    Now what I like to do is the top first, so I flip the top to the middle (against the pins) drizzle my ESG (Elmer's SCHOOL Glue) in a thin lazy circle motion about 10-12" ON THE BATTING.....fold down the top and smooth with your hands until the section is wrinkle free, then fold back the top to the bottom of the previous glue, and drizzle again, flip down, smooth and continue until you have the top half done. At the point I spin the top around and do the other side in the same manner, only drizzling about 12" down at a time, do not worry if some of the glue soaks thru the top, it will dry and it will wash out......once the top is done...walk away for lets say 30-60 minutes, this will allow the glue to dry.... Now flip over your quilt having the un-glued backing on top and the dry smooth top on the bottom. You still have the safety pin row in the middle, that has kept everything together. Do exactly as you did for the top, flipping to the pin line, drizzling glue onto the batting and smoothing down the backing. YOU CAN GET IT AS SMOOTH AS GLASS.....once the back is done, and everything is smooth, I like to let it set for several hours or over night if possible....both sides should be very smooth, you will not have any wrinkles, your needle will not get gummed up and after your binding is on just throw it into the washer.....or not I hope this helps some people with this great cheap method.....if you need more help PM me
    Deborahlees, you have made this so clear. I have done this but did not pin in the middle. I am going to try this next time I do a quilt. I have never used ESG either but I am going to on my next one. I,m still in the learning stage of this quilting, lol, I love this site. I have learned so much here. Maybe one day I can give back. Joy
    Life is SEW great!!!!!!

  12. #12
    Senior Member Delilah's Avatar
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    Is the school glue better than the sprays made for basting? Why use the school glue when there are sprays made specifically for basting that are water soluable?
    OCD in the OC

  13. #13
    Super Member Neesie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delilah View Post
    Is the school glue better than the sprays made for basting? Why use the school glue when there are sprays made specifically for basting that are water soluable?
    Aside from working just as well (at least for cotton batting) and also being water soluble,

    1. Elmer's School Glue is more environmentally friendly
    2. Elmer's School Glue doesn't end up all over surrounding areas (no over-spray)
    3. Elmer's School Glue doesn't require extra ventilation
    4. Elmer's School Glue is more readily available
    5. Elmer's School Glue is a heck of a lot cheaper

    I'm sure there are many more reasons.
    Neesie


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  14. #14
    Senior Member Michellesews's Avatar
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    Basting spray works perfectly for me, it is cheap and Walmart sells it.
    Michelle Guadarrama

  15. #15
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    Well, I learned that your fabric should be on TOP of your batting! that is a nice tip that should help me re-baste my kaleidoscope quilt! See, procrastination sometimes helps! ;0) Glad I haven't started yet!

  16. #16
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    I have done this several times with great success. I lay the backing down, batting on top. Pull the batting up and spray the glue on the backing. When glued, I press it from the backing side. This way I can remove any possible puckers. Then I lay down the backing/batting and spread the top over, pull back and glue. Again to the ironing board. Only one time did I get puckers in the back and it was at an edge where the backing came up. So now I go through the process and either pin, baste, or reglue the edges. Works great for me.

  17. #17
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    Me too, Thanks

  18. #18
    Super Member nancia's Avatar
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    basting spray just seems simpler to me, but i'm willing to try esg. it's certainly less expensive than the basting spray.
    The only bad days are the ones you don't get.

  19. #19
    Senior Member ThreadHead's Avatar
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    My counter is 2.5 by 5 foot which is great for cutting etc. but not for quilting. I went to Home Depot and bought a 4 ft by 8 ft. ecuaboard, or masonite, light weight. I slide it behind my shelving when I not using it and pull it out to spray glue my quilt. It is large, but I can slide it up to my counter and pull it across the top by myself without much trouble at all. I center my backing on the markings I put on the board and tape the backing down.
    Then I fold one side back, spray it and roll it back onto the backing, then do the same to the other side. I lay the top on, measure, and do the same, rolling back one side, spraying and smoothing. Once it has been sprayed, I also pin with 1.5 to 2 inch pins, using a spoon to help with closing the pins. I counted, average is 200 pins. I have to do both spraying and pinning because I don't have room when quilting and the quilt gets shoved around quite a bit. Another thing I do when quilting is I use my left arm a lot to hold the quilt and keep it straight, so I use a piece of a rubber glove that I wrap around my arm just below the elbow and my gloves that holds the quilt . If I didn't have that piece on my arm along with my surgical gloves I would be screaming and cussing at the quilt, lol. What a difference the rubber gloves and arm band make.
    When I bought the board, I also bought a half inch piece of foam to glue on the other side, then covered it with felt so I can stand the board up and use it to audition my blocks for a quilt. Good Luck Syl
    Syl

  20. #20
    Super Member PenniF's Avatar
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    I found that putting the glue on the batting and smoothing the fabric onto it was much better -- if you "smooth" the batting side - you (i should say I) tend to "stretch" it a little - so that when the glue dried, and the batting eased itself back to "normal" - i got puckers. By smoothing the backing fabric - no puckers. It really does work.
    Of all the things i've lost, i miss my mind the most.

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