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Quilt Block Finished Size Problem

Quilt Block Finished Size Problem

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Old 09-05-2011, 05:32 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by MTS
Don't even bother. Make all the blocks and then trim then down to the size of the smallest one. That way they'll join together easily.

Then, when you're done, take a look at the process again. The directions are correct, and should result in a 12.5" block.
But the blocks are off because something isn't right in the way you're cutting, sewing or pressing (or all or any combination of the three).

The log cabin block is very forgiving, and since those logs are wide anyway, it will not be noticeable.

You need the blocks all to be the same size more than you need enlarge them to come out to 12.5" (for this quilt).

Here's some more info:
http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-112724-1.htm#2925138
The part where I recommend Sally Collins' book, The Art of Machine Piecing. It's the bible.
I dh just ordered this book for me. Sounds like it will be helpful.
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:36 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Blackberry
I must not be sewing or pressing them correctly because in the squaring process usually the amount at the top and bottom of the block that I have to trim is a little larger than in the middle. I think all of the strips were cut correctly. I was doing this using the strip piecing method but I am wondering if maybe it would be better if I just cut each log the size it is supposed to be and sew it together. I also think that squaring up after each row, like Jan suggested, would probably be a good idea. More work but probably worth it in the long run.
Oh no, don't resort to the cut-a-thousand-different-strips method! Even when one does that, IMO, the presser foot still moves the top fabric forward a smidge so the edge is still not even. Might as well strip sew and trim after each round. Time consuming on the construction end, but totally accurate blocks on the row-assembly end!

But, let's deal with the issue you currently have of the top and bottom being more to trim than the sides......Check to find the problem:
Turn your blocks over. On the back precisely measure, from cut edge to cut edge, the hearth square (your center square). Are they ALL exactly square? Actually DO this, don't rely on, "well I cut them all at yada-yada."

**TIP: I press EACH log away from this hearth block, no matter the dark/light color of the log. When you do this consistently, you can measure any "round" from the back side of the block and determine exactly its size.**

Measure across the block (whatever size it is up to this point), from side to side, and from top to bottom, and see if those measurements match.

Measure the width of several logs in on each round, on several blocks, from the back side of the block. Any discrepancies? Sometimes we cut what we think is an accurate strip only to find out that the ruler measured 2.25" on one end and 2.5" on the other. Or the first strip appeared to be "full" but the bottom layer of the yardage was actually slightly less than the top layer when we cut the strip. And some fabrics just plain have a mind of their own and stretch a bit when pressed, no matter how careful we think we are.

Compare the seam allowances across the whole block, from the back side. You can do this easier by folding the block and abutting one seam against another. Sometimes they appear the same when actually they are a few threads wider or narrower.

After you've done all this to determine where the discrepancy lies, go have a glass of wine, look out the window, call a friend, pet the furbaby, take a deep breath, and decide how/if to fix it. (After the wine, you probably won't care and that's okay with me! :mrgreen: )

**TIP: I ONLY use That Patchwork Place 8" Bias Square ruler to square my blocks. When a block is larger than *", I use the OLIPFA 12.5" square becasue it has the same markings.
The 8"Bias Square is the ONLY ruler on the market with 1/8" SOLID LINES in both directions. (Others have 1/8" hash marks, but NOT solid lines to follow.) This allows you to trim off the tiniest amount of fabric evenly from all sides of a block EASIER than with any other ruler. I buy mine online. Noticed it's on 10% sale right now @ http://www.softexpressions.com/softw.../RulersTPP.php

Jan in VA
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:56 AM
  #13  
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Use a thin thread for piecing. Be sure when you press the seams they lay flat and the stitch line can be seen on the right side, no overlap of fabric to cover the seam. Pressing the seams open will help.
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Old 09-12-2011, 01:10 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by MTS
Don't even bother. Make all the blocks and then trim then down to the size of the smallest one. That way they'll join together easily.

Then, when you're done, take a look at the process again. The directions are correct, and should result in a 12.5" block.
But the blocks are off because something isn't right in the way you're cutting, sewing or pressing (or all or any combination of the three).

The log cabin block is very forgiving, and since those logs are wide anyway, it will not be noticeable.

You need the blocks all to be the same size more than you need enlarge them to come out to 12.5" (for this quilt).

Here's some more info:
http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-112724-1.htm#2925138
The part where I recommend Sally Collins' book, The Art of Machine Piecing. It's the bible.
the book just came - looks like it will really become my go to book. Thanks for suggesting it.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:32 PM
  #15  
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I'm working on my first log cabin now. While I like the look and I'm chain piecing I still find it a terribly tedious process. I trim each strip after it's added since I'm chaining and need to cut each block off the main strip anyhow.

My thinking is that if your beginning and ends are off on each log/side that you may be skewing your strip as you are sewing. It might help to stack a few post-it notes at the 'scant' 1/4" measurement from your needle (if not able to reposition needle on your machine). But your fabric up to the edge of the post-its and you may get more consistent seams the length of your block.
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