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  • Quilting a Batik Quilt and Tension Issues - Update at #16

  • Quilting a Batik Quilt and Tension Issues - Update at #16

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    Old 02-22-2016, 03:30 PM
      #31  
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    Originally Posted by rryder
    I don't have a long arm, but do have two machines in which the bobbin is oriented vertically that I use for Fmq. On one of them I had a backlash that looks exactly like what you are showing and realized I'd accidentally put the bobbin in backwards-- it happened right after I'd finished piecing a quilt on my machine with a horizontal drop in bobbin (p orientation for the bobbin) and moved over to my Fmq machine with the vertical bobbin (q orientation for bobbin insertion).

    Rob
    Hi Rob,
    that's really interesting! I would say it's something I always check, because I always look at my bobbin when I replace it to ensure that when I pull the thread off it, it should rotate clockwise. But I will keep it in mind. I don't know if mine would even work if I put it in backwards and I can stitch for a long time between backlashes. Thanks for mentioning this point tho'.
    K
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    Old 02-23-2016, 09:31 AM
      #32  
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    Thank you so much, I understand now and will watch the video

    My colors are all similar, so I'll try just washing with the synthrapol & color catcher, I've used both at times. I just hate to put a lot of work into a quilt and then have it ruined. I like the wash & wear types better as gifts, lol!

    Originally Posted by Kwiltr
    Hi. There is a HQ Webinar on Tension Tug of War on the Handi Quilter website under the Education link. Vicki Hoth discusses this but I'm not sure she demonstrates it, but have a look at that. Essentially instead of only flossing your thread through and up from the bottom of the tension discs, you continue to have your thread travel completely around them before continuing threading the machine. I pretty much always prewash all of my fabric, batiks included. I throw a colour catcher in to see if anything gives off dye enough to wash it again. Someone suggested I wash the backing a few times, but I found the backing was flimsier than the regular batik I used on the top anyway, so didn't think it would be an issue after one wash. I tried Retayne once and didn't find it worked that well for setting the dye and after discovering it is not a permanent fix as you mentioned, don't plan on using it again. I think you're probably better off using synthrapol or colour catchers in the subsequent washings to deal with any further bleeding issues that could happen, but that's just my opinion.
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    Old 02-23-2016, 09:34 AM
      #33  
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    My Janome has the drop in bobbin, but what's interesting is what I found in some of my on-line searches trying to fix the tension problem with fmq on batik. Someone suggested to actually put the bobbin in backwards...I was so frustrated, I gave it a try and it was much better! Not sure this would be helpful on a Sweet 16, but it worked in my Janome

    Originally Posted by Kwiltr
    Hi Rob,
    that's really interesting! I would say it's something I always check, because I always look at my bobbin when I replace it to ensure that when I pull the thread off it, it should rotate clockwise. But I will keep it in mind. I don't know if mine would even work if I put it in backwards and I can stitch for a long time between backlashes. Thanks for mentioning this point tho'.
    K
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    Old 02-23-2016, 10:07 AM
      #34  
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    I have no answer for you, but had an incident recently where I sent my batik quilt off to a quilter in another city. I bought my wide backing at Joann's and even washed the backing to get some of the sizing out. Well, she returned it to me and said she tried to quilt it and her stitches kept skipping and she changed needles several times, but she just couldn't do it; felt I wouldn't be happy with the results which I wouldn't have. She didn't charge me anything, but now I have an unfinished quilt just sitting here and I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it. Don't know if it was the top or backing that was the problem so I'm thinking another backing for it.
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    Old 02-24-2016, 09:45 PM
      #35  
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    Originally Posted by sash
    I have no answer for you, but had an incident recently where I sent my batik quilt off to a quilter in another city. I bought my wide backing at Joann's and even washed the backing to get some of the sizing out. Well, she returned it to me and said she tried to quilt it and her stitches kept skipping and she changed needles several times, but she just couldn't do it; felt I wouldn't be happy with the results which I wouldn't have. She didn't charge me anything, but now I have an unfinished quilt just sitting here and I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it. Don't know if it was the top or backing that was the problem so I'm thinking another backing for it.
    Hi Sash, that's kind of strange isn't it? I never had any skipped stitches, just inconsistent tension and bobbin backlashes. I've sorted out most of the problem and I think a lot of it were issues with my machine. I finally finished it on the weekend, and posted pictures over on the Pictures segment of the forum under Chain of Events Finished if you haven't already seen it. Fortunately, the pictures do not show all my quilting blips . Good luck with your quilt!
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    Old 03-08-2016, 01:28 PM
      #36  
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    I have only done a few batik projects and they aren't usually 100% batiks. I use a microtex needle 80 or 90 for piecing and then a quilting or topstitching needle for quilting.
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    Old 03-26-2016, 10:06 AM
      #37  
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    One more question...Do you ever back your batik quilts with regular quilting cottons? If so, does this cause additional tension issues?
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    Old 03-26-2016, 12:07 PM
      #38  
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    I've only made one batik quilt which was with a batik back so can't answe that question
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    Old 03-26-2016, 05:18 PM
      #39  
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    Originally Posted by omaluvs2quilt
    One more question...Do you ever back your batik quilts with regular quilting cottons? If so, does this cause additional tension issues?
    Most of the batik quilts I've done on a long arm are not backed by batick. That has not caused any tension problems but I do find when I have an all batik on the frame , that I don't want as much tension on the rollers as that does seem to cause more thread shredding, especially when using a very fine thread (like Bottom Line).
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    Old 03-26-2016, 07:29 PM
      #40  
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    I have also had problems with the baticks being on the front and the back. They are both very tight weave.
    I am not a real fan of the glide thread. I usually use aurifil 50wt. I do wind my bobbins until the bobbin wider stops on it's own.
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