Dingle

Ha! I'm a "new dog" and do all of that. :lol:

Farm Quilter

Actually, a little dot of Elmer's School Glue (washes out easily) when you are pressing your seams works wonders. There is a tool out there that fits over the top of the glue so you really can get a thin line of glue (I can't remember where I saw it but it was online). Just a wee dot and press it...works like magic!

http://sharonschamber.com/shopping%2...ewproducts.htm They are called glue tips...of course, they are out of stock right now, but for future reference!

jdreamblue

Usually this happens if you have too many seams coming together. In that case it calls for pressing the seams open and flat on the underside. Also, are you lifting your iron up and down or pressing like you would a garment? Those intersecting seams need to have the iron brought down flat.

gale

I've always been careful not to sew over pins. A couple of months ago I accidentally did for the FIRST time and wouldn't you know, the needle hit the pin, the pin was then shaped like an L and the needle must have dulled because I had problems after and had to change it. Just my luck. :mrgreen:

eta: I only use the fine clover brand quilt pins. I'm a snob that way. :thumbup:

ewecansew

I have found that the needle plate is a little higher than the bed of the machine and it pushes that bottom seam allowance back towards me. To help solve the problem, I have put a piece of tape (painter's tape) over the join. It lasts quite a while and is cheap to replace. (Pfaff 2056)

QuiltnCowgirl

Same here...besides then I get to put the petal to the metal until the next "intersection" :mrgreen:

Theresa

This is an interesting observation! Will check my machine tomorrow. It is a Brothers QC 1000. The painters tape is a fantastic solution.

kittykatz2001

I use a stiletto religiously. It seems to help. It's like a third hand. I butt my seams together and push with the stiletto as it comes to the seam.

Holice

I hope I can describe this in writing.
I put a pin perpindictular to the edge and under the seam allowance - either to one side or presed open - then back.
So the pin is holding the seam either open or to the correct side. I remove the pin when the needle catches the seam. Was that clear. No more catching the seam on the bottom.

MadQuilter

EVERY time you hit a needle you can knock the timing out of your machine. This is particularly problematic for slant-shank machines. You can also bust the needle to the point where it flies off and hits someone or the needle bit can get caught in the bobbin area. Also, even if you only sew close to a pin, your needle can scratch the metal surface and ....metal to metal - not so good for sharpnees of the pointy thing. This one has nothing really to do with quilt police.

As for the bulk, I noticed that I spend much time planning my seams in the pressing process. If I can nest the seams, I get a better result. When many seams come together I use the ELeanor Burns method of splitting the seam allowance seams and pressing the bulk to where it looks like a windmill. (Kinda hard to explain.)