Square in a square block
01-08-2011, 10:48 PM
#11
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The "cut away the excess" method wastes a whole lot of fabric. I make square in a square blocks that start with a 5 inch center square and I cut two 4 inch squares on the diagonal for the corners. I'd try it with the 5.5 and two 4.5 inch squares and see if it comes out the size you want. I crease the center square in the center and the corners in the center and match the creases.
01-08-2011, 11:31 PM
#12
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I use the squares method. I know it wastes fabric but I can guarantee I'd waste a heck of a lot more fabric trying to do it with triangles and ending up messing up a bunch of blocks. I did watch the video mentioned above a while back and would like to try that method sometime. Is that video on youtube? That type of video never plays well for me (I can't seem to pause and let it load and even if I let it play through and try to watch again, it just stalls again).
01-09-2011, 01:00 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by B. Louise
I don't have any advice, but your avatar is sure a cutie!
This is a pix of my first grandchild at 3 months old, and I just love the amused look on her face! It just tells me she is going to be a prankster like her daddy.
Just got some new pix and one is a grand prize winner for sure! Have to get them scanned elsewhere so I can have digital formats to post.
Diane
Diane
01-09-2011, 01:14 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by Scissor Queen
The "cut away the excess" method wastes a whole lot of fabric. I make square in a square blocks that start with a 5 inch center square and I cut two 4 inch squares on the diagonal for the corners. I'd try it with the 5.5 and two 4.5 inch squares and see if it comes out the size you want. I crease the center square in the center and the corners in the center and match the creases.
I don't have much in the way of scraps because it all gets used. One friend loves to take my salvedges, another treasure hunts for her applique, my strips all get cut into 1.5 inches and are saved for a scrappy log cabin, small squares are kept for button covers, and what is too skiny to use is put in a basket , along with loose threads, and put out each spring for the birds to use for making their nests.
BTW, I just realized that I won't be wasting any fabric if I use Anita's method. The unused center square of the triangle corner fabric is the same as I will be using for my cornerstones in the sashing, which is 2.5" unfinished, so no waste there at all!
Diane
01-09-2011, 03:28 AM
#15
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I saw the video & need a bit more info. What size squares did you use to start?There were marks on the mat?Guess I need to find the book that shows this method.
Originally Posted by AnitaGrossmanSolomon
>>Before I start cutting, I want to be sure I am doing this right.
Take the centered logo and cut it to 5.5 inches unfinished. Cut four squares at 3" unfinished and draw a diagonal line edge to edge....This needs to result in a 5.5" unfinished square.
Are my measurements correct?
_______
Dear Diane,'
I believe they are not. I believe, if I understand your intentions, this is the formula to follow:
5.5" unfinished = 5" finished.
Divide 5" by 2 which = 2.5"
Add 1/2" to each of four 2.5" squares = cut four 3" squares.
Test this for yourself. I usually test using paper squares, not fabric squares. You could sew a photocopy of your Bruins fabric to test position. I expect you chose this method to keep the directional Bruins fabric 'upright'.
You asked "What is your favorite method?" My favorite is one of my own device. From this page on my blog, http://makeitsimpler.blogspot.com/search/label/Tutorial
click on: 'VIDEO Super Fast Rotary Cutting: Square on Point'
This wastes no fabric, and keeps an 'upright' upright.
Anita Grossman Solomon
Take the centered logo and cut it to 5.5 inches unfinished. Cut four squares at 3" unfinished and draw a diagonal line edge to edge....This needs to result in a 5.5" unfinished square.
Are my measurements correct?
_______
Dear Diane,'
I believe they are not. I believe, if I understand your intentions, this is the formula to follow:
5.5" unfinished = 5" finished.
Divide 5" by 2 which = 2.5"
Add 1/2" to each of four 2.5" squares = cut four 3" squares.
Test this for yourself. I usually test using paper squares, not fabric squares. You could sew a photocopy of your Bruins fabric to test position. I expect you chose this method to keep the directional Bruins fabric 'upright'.
You asked "What is your favorite method?" My favorite is one of my own device. From this page on my blog, http://makeitsimpler.blogspot.com/search/label/Tutorial
click on: 'VIDEO Super Fast Rotary Cutting: Square on Point'
This wastes no fabric, and keeps an 'upright' upright.
Anita Grossman Solomon
01-09-2011, 12:06 PM
#16
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Pat,
In the video, Anita used 8" squares, but you can use any size. What is important is that all squares that you will be cutting are the same size.
If you watch the video again, you will see where the lines on the mat come from and how to do it based on the size squares you are going to be cutting.
Diane
In the video, Anita used 8" squares, but you can use any size. What is important is that all squares that you will be cutting are the same size.
If you watch the video again, you will see where the lines on the mat come from and how to do it based on the size squares you are going to be cutting.
Diane
01-09-2011, 02:34 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by AnitaGrossmanSolomon
I was disappointed to discover today that HGTV removed the extensive online printable directions that accompanied Simply Quilts episode #1129, Make It Simpler Rotary Cutting. I'm sorry to have left people floundering.
You should know that one square of fabric will yield one quilt block. The benefit is in knowing that if you want to make a quilt of 36 Square on Point blocks, you'd need 36 assorted fabric squares. A quilt of 100 blocks calls for 100 assorted fabric squares.
The fabric squares must be cut to the same size. Whatever size you choose, you must create a cutting pattern specific to that size. For example, 6 inch fabric squares require you to begin by drawing a 6 inch square on graph paper. A finished block will always measure 1-1/4 inches smaller than the fabric square.
The good news is that I amplified and improved my technique with a cutting pattern/top piecing pattern in the book "Rotary Cutting Revolution." I devoted 8 out of 128 pages to it with over 30 photographs. Perhaps you can locate a copy through your local library. The 'new' way means not having to mark your rotary mat nor cutting fabric squares to the exact size to start. You do need a 'straight edge' to cut but you don't need to read the lines on a ruler.
I confess to having many quilting notions and tools, but I write for the person who may have only one ordinary ruler, mat and cutter and is averse to wasting fabric.
Anita
http://makeitsimpler.blogspot.com
You should know that one square of fabric will yield one quilt block. The benefit is in knowing that if you want to make a quilt of 36 Square on Point blocks, you'd need 36 assorted fabric squares. A quilt of 100 blocks calls for 100 assorted fabric squares.
The fabric squares must be cut to the same size. Whatever size you choose, you must create a cutting pattern specific to that size. For example, 6 inch fabric squares require you to begin by drawing a 6 inch square on graph paper. A finished block will always measure 1-1/4 inches smaller than the fabric square.
The good news is that I amplified and improved my technique with a cutting pattern/top piecing pattern in the book "Rotary Cutting Revolution." I devoted 8 out of 128 pages to it with over 30 photographs. Perhaps you can locate a copy through your local library. The 'new' way means not having to mark your rotary mat nor cutting fabric squares to the exact size to start. You do need a 'straight edge' to cut but you don't need to read the lines on a ruler.
I confess to having many quilting notions and tools, but I write for the person who may have only one ordinary ruler, mat and cutter and is averse to wasting fabric.
Anita
http://makeitsimpler.blogspot.com
01-09-2011, 02:44 PM
#19
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Mid-West
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Thank you. I admire your work & clear explanations.I'll also be looking for the book.Even tho I don't need more, now & then one comes along that is worth buying.Thanks again...Pat
Originally Posted by AnitaGrossmanSolomon
I was disappointed to discover today that HGTV removed the extensive online printable directions that accompanied Simply Quilts episode #1129, Make It Simpler Rotary Cutting. I'm sorry to have left people floundering.
You should know that one square of fabric will yield one quilt block. The benefit is in knowing that if you want to make a quilt of 36 Square on Point blocks, you'd need 36 assorted fabric squares. A quilt of 100 blocks calls for 100 assorted fabric squares.
The fabric squares must be cut to the same size. Whatever size you choose, you must create a cutting pattern specific to that size. For example, 6 inch fabric squares require you to begin by drawing a 6 inch square on graph paper. A finished block will always measure 1-1/4 inches smaller than the fabric square.
The good news is that I amplified and improved my technique with a cutting pattern/top piecing pattern in the book "Rotary Cutting Revolution." I devoted 8 out of 128 pages to it with over 30 photographs. Perhaps you can locate a copy through your local library. The 'new' way means not having to mark your rotary mat nor cutting fabric squares to the exact size to start. You do need a 'straight edge' to cut but you don't need to read the lines on a ruler.
I confess to having many quilting notions and tools, but I write for the person who may have only one ordinary ruler, mat and cutter and is averse to wasting fabric.
Anita
http://makeitsimpler.blogspot.com
You should know that one square of fabric will yield one quilt block. The benefit is in knowing that if you want to make a quilt of 36 Square on Point blocks, you'd need 36 assorted fabric squares. A quilt of 100 blocks calls for 100 assorted fabric squares.
The fabric squares must be cut to the same size. Whatever size you choose, you must create a cutting pattern specific to that size. For example, 6 inch fabric squares require you to begin by drawing a 6 inch square on graph paper. A finished block will always measure 1-1/4 inches smaller than the fabric square.
The good news is that I amplified and improved my technique with a cutting pattern/top piecing pattern in the book "Rotary Cutting Revolution." I devoted 8 out of 128 pages to it with over 30 photographs. Perhaps you can locate a copy through your local library. The 'new' way means not having to mark your rotary mat nor cutting fabric squares to the exact size to start. You do need a 'straight edge' to cut but you don't need to read the lines on a ruler.
I confess to having many quilting notions and tools, but I write for the person who may have only one ordinary ruler, mat and cutter and is averse to wasting fabric.
Anita
http://makeitsimpler.blogspot.com
01-11-2011, 12:56 PM
#20
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: East Hampstead, NH
Posts: 481
I just ordered "Rotary Cutting Revolution" from Amazon. So many 5 star reviews and only one 4 star, who loved it too. Can't wait to get it!
Anita, I think yiou are an absolute genius! I'm not going to cut my square in a square blocks until I get the book.
I do have one question though. In your last post, you said the finished block is 1 1/4 inches smaller than the block you start with.
If I want a finished 5" square, then starting with 6 1/4", I lose 1" when the internal square is sewn (1/4 on triangle, 1/4 on square times 2 sides = 1"}. Then when I sew the completed block into a quilt, I will then lose 1/2", being the 1/4 inch seam from each side. Wouldn't that leave me with a finished 4 3/4" square?
Diane
Anita, I think yiou are an absolute genius! I'm not going to cut my square in a square blocks until I get the book.
I do have one question though. In your last post, you said the finished block is 1 1/4 inches smaller than the block you start with.
If I want a finished 5" square, then starting with 6 1/4", I lose 1" when the internal square is sewn (1/4 on triangle, 1/4 on square times 2 sides = 1"}. Then when I sew the completed block into a quilt, I will then lose 1/2", being the 1/4 inch seam from each side. Wouldn't that leave me with a finished 4 3/4" square?
Diane
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