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Thread: Sweat Shirt Jackets

  1. #1
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    When making these jackets is there a certain sweat shirt that you prefer to use? Has anyone used the joeboxer shirts from kmart?

  2. #2
    Super Member gzuslivz's Avatar
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    I never have, so I'd be interested in knowing, too. I might want to make one for my dear, sweet mom:-)

  3. #3
    Power Poster amma's Avatar
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    I prefer 100% cotton for these :D:D:D

  4. #4
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    I like Jerzee brand or Hanes They are cut full.

  5. #5
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    When making the shirt do you use a shirt that is the same size as you would normally wear or use one that is a size bigger?

  6. #6
    Senior Member scrapykate's Avatar
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    I was wearing a sweat shirt the other day and decided I didn't like it as the bottom cuff was too tight(couldn't be me, could it?) anyway, will be perfect as a coat. Can't wait to start it but have to finish a quilt first.

  7. #7
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    You can use size that you wear. If hou like looser fitting jacket the go up one size.
    Have fun. I always to a stay stitch before cutting off bottom or top bands also befor cutting cuffs off. This stitching will keep shirt in shape.

  8. #8
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    I went one size up because I cut the seams and cuffs off rather than seam ripping them open. And I ended up with a much too large jacket that I had to cut down. But I would rather have it too large than too small.

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    I usually go 1size up, pick up sweatshirts whenever I find a good sale or clearance.. Just buy 100% cotton, brand doesn't matter to mme as much as that.

    I also use denim mens shirts, they make nice jackets..

  10. #10
    Super Member pollyjvan9's Avatar
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    I always go at least 1 size larger and sometimes 2 sizes because I like them loose and usually have a sweater on under it also.

  11. #11
    Super Member Lori S's Avatar
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    I make lots and I really do mean lots of sweatshirt jackets to sell. I prefer Jerzees 50/50 with the Nublend . They wear like iron , almost no shrinkage , the color lasts alot longer, they dry much quicker and are actually warmer because of the poly. There is also a lot less pilling of the fleece side. Some of the 100 percent cotton I tried over the years just could not pass muster on quality control. The shrinkage is in the lenght , not a good thing as once you cut the band off they really are not that long. The pilling was quite substantial on the 100 percent cotton , and was very unappealing.
    I have had customers come back 10 years later and still wearing the sweatshirt.
    If I counted the number I have made it would be over 1500. Lost track of the actual count years ago.
    No matter what sweatshirt you choose, pre-shink it! Its really not a good thing when all of the fabrics and the sweatshirt shrink at different rates.

  12. #12
    Super Member amandasgramma's Avatar
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    I agree with Lori S. I used to paint on sweatshirts a long time ago, and the Jerzees brand were the preferred brand because of their durability.

  13. #13
    Super Member Lori S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quilterj
    When making the shirt do you use a shirt that is the same size as you would normally wear or use one that is a size bigger?
    This really depends on the manufacture , how you want it to look, how much peicing you put on the front( the piecing takes up some of the width and the give in the sweatshirt) , and how if you cut the sides and re- seam after the peicing. I find they look better when the front opening just comes together without too much over lap.
    Jerzees is very generous in there sizing, and almost no shrinkage. Take tape measure to see just how big the shirt is, and subtract your seams. If you are taking a 1/2 inch then subtract 2 inches from the shirt measurement and that will be how wide the finished shirt will be. Some make them a bit bigger( or compensating for the seams) by adding a more to the front in the way of button bands the lenght of the shirt. or a wide binding that does not use the sweatshirt to fill to the outer edge of the binding.

  14. #14
    Super Member oksewglad's Avatar
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    [/quote]
    Some of the 100 percent cotton I tried over the years just could not pass muster on quality control. The shrinkage is in the lenght , not a good thing as once you cut the band off they really are not that long. [/quote]

    No you haven't gotten shorter, and if it still fits as in my case maybe you've gotten wider. :shock:
    This is the nature of cotton knit fabrics. Check out your less expensive 100 % cotton T's. The same thing happens to them. Pays to go for better quality.

  15. #15
    Senior Member lonestardreams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lori S
    I make lots and I really do mean lots of sweatshirt jackets to sell. I prefer Jerzees 50/50 with the Nublend . They wear like iron , almost no shrinkage , the color lasts alot longer, they dry much quicker and are actually warmer because of the poly. There is also a lot less pilling of the fleece side. Some of the 100 percent cotton I tried over the years just could not pass muster on quality control. The shrinkage is in the lenght , not a good thing as once you cut the band off they really are not that long. The pilling was quite substantial on the 100 percent cotton , and was very unappealing.
    I have had customers come back 10 years later and still wearing the sweatshirt.
    If I counted the number I have made it would be over 1500. Lost track of the actual count years ago.
    No matter what sweatshirt you choose, pre-shink it! Its really not a good thing when all of the fabrics and the sweatshirt shrink at different rates.
    I've always wanted to make one of these. Thank you for the advice. We've had so many sweatshirts over the years that did not hold their shape.

  16. #16
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    Our lqs has a jacket class. When they make their jackets they do is turn their jackets inside out. So that the fury side of the shirt is what you sew your fabric on and that you have a nice smoothness on the inside of the jacket. Although I think that the fury part of the shirt would help to keep warm.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lori S
    Quote Originally Posted by quilterj
    When making the shirt do you use a shirt that is the same size as you would normally wear or use one that is a size bigger?
    This really depends on the manufacture , how you want it to look, how much peicing you put on the front( the piecing takes up some of the width and the give in the sweatshirt) , and how if you cut the sides and re- seam after the peicing. I find they look better when the front opening just comes together without too much over lap.
    Jerzees is very generous in there sizing, and almost no shrinkage. Take tape measure to see just how big the shirt is, and subtract your seams. If you are taking a 1/2 inch then subtract 2 inches from the shirt measurement and that will be how wide the finished shirt will be. Some make them a bit bigger( or compensating for the seams) by adding a more to the front in the way of button bands the lenght of the shirt. or a wide binding that does not use the sweatshirt to fill to the outer edge of the binding.
    I know I have bought jerzee shirts before but it has been awhile. Who sells them. Walmart?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lori S
    I make lots and I really do mean lots of sweatshirt jackets to sell. I prefer Jerzees 50/50 with the Nublend . They wear like iron , almost no shrinkage , the color lasts alot longer, they dry much quicker and are actually warmer because of the poly. There is also a lot less pilling of the fleece side. Some of the 100 percent cotton I tried over the years just could not pass muster on quality control. The shrinkage is in the lenght , not a good thing as once you cut the band off they really are not that long. The pilling was quite substantial on the 100 percent cotton , and was very unappealing.
    I have had customers come back 10 years later and still wearing the sweatshirt.
    If I counted the number I have made it would be over 1500. Lost track of the actual count years ago.
    No matter what sweatshirt you choose, pre-shink it! Its really not a good thing when all of the fabrics and the sweatshirt shrink at different rates.
    I have bought joeboxer shirt from kmart. Just looked and it is 80% cotton and 20% poly. The band seems to be not to tight at the bottom but not that loose either. What do you think? Is this one a good prospect for a jacket. Kmart had them the other day on sale for $3.00. (Reg. $10.00).

  19. #19
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    I found out that my lqs when they had their class they reused the bands for the sleeves. Do any of you reuse the bands that are already on the shirt?

  20. #20
    Junior Member lynn7448's Avatar
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    When using the men's denim shirt to make a quilted jacket, how do you determine what size? Also, do you take it all apart to quilt and then sew it back together?
    Thanks,
    Lynn

  21. #21
    Super Member Lori S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quilterj
    I found out that my lqs when they had their class they reused the bands for the sleeves. Do any of you reuse the bands that are already on the shirt?
    Not typically . but some styles do re- use the band. Do you know what style you are making , a photo would be helpful.

  22. #22
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    I took a class on those jackets and they recommended that you choose one at least one size larger than you usually wear.

  23. #23
    Power Poster sewnsewer2's Avatar
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    Get one that is 1 size larger and wash it 1st. I have made a few and they fit fine.

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