Wavy Applique
#11
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
For something like that, I starch the background fabric very heavily before cutting. This is how I do it (fast and easy).
Mix a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo laundry starch and water. (Sta-Flo is sold in a blue quart bottle in the laundry section of most grocery stores.) Lay the fabric out on my kitchen island and "paint" the starch onto the fabric using a large wall painting brush. I saturate the fabric, then toss it in the dryer. Finally, I iron it with steam. This leaves the background fabric about as stiff as cardstock and very stable; there is no need to use a stabilizer under it.
I also starch the applique fabric, although not as heavily.
I prefer using the very tiny, short applique pins to secure the applique to the background. You need at least 3 pins to prevent shifting, but these can be an inch or so away from the edge.
Starching the background fabric heavily prevents "tunneling" of the satin stitch and eliminates the need for a stabilizer underneath. I normally don't use spray starch because I have a lot of trouble controllling over-spray, plus I tend to have my iron too hot and have both gunked up my iron and scorched the spray starch. None of that happens when I use the Sta-Flo method above.
Mix a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo laundry starch and water. (Sta-Flo is sold in a blue quart bottle in the laundry section of most grocery stores.) Lay the fabric out on my kitchen island and "paint" the starch onto the fabric using a large wall painting brush. I saturate the fabric, then toss it in the dryer. Finally, I iron it with steam. This leaves the background fabric about as stiff as cardstock and very stable; there is no need to use a stabilizer under it.
I also starch the applique fabric, although not as heavily.
I prefer using the very tiny, short applique pins to secure the applique to the background. You need at least 3 pins to prevent shifting, but these can be an inch or so away from the edge.
Starching the background fabric heavily prevents "tunneling" of the satin stitch and eliminates the need for a stabilizer underneath. I normally don't use spray starch because I have a lot of trouble controllling over-spray, plus I tend to have my iron too hot and have both gunked up my iron and scorched the spray starch. None of that happens when I use the Sta-Flo method above.
#12
I do a lot of machine applique, and I think the biggest thing that helps with the puckering is a stabilizer. I am super-cheap so I use magazine pages. They tear off fairly easily and you are recycling, too! Amma is right about making the stitches nice and close, too. Usually my magazine pages will fall off without me even having to pull on them.
I always cut my squares bigger and then trim them. It has saved me many times!
I have not used starch, but it does sound like a good idea.
Also, if I am laying a large applique on the quilt top, I will put some quilt basting spray on the back of the applique rather than pinning it. It is repositionable, but keeps it flat and stationary.
I always cut my squares bigger and then trim them. It has saved me many times!
I have not used starch, but it does sound like a good idea.
Also, if I am laying a large applique on the quilt top, I will put some quilt basting spray on the back of the applique rather than pinning it. It is repositionable, but keeps it flat and stationary.
#13
Another thing- your butterflies look like some in a quilt I made about 4 years ago for my niece. Are they from a book called "Happy Quilts"? It's an older book I got at a thrift store. They are going to be cute!!
Here is a link to the thread with pics of my quilt.
http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-16959-1.htm
Here is a link to the thread with pics of my quilt.
http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-16959-1.htm
#15
I use church bulletins when I machine applique. It's heavier that regular paper, but not as heavy as construction. I volunteer in our church office so our Pastor lets me have the extra unprinted ones.
#17
Originally Posted by JLD
So here is a mock up of the pattern that I am trying to use. I did this without heat and bond - but I plan on using it. I am just trying to see if I can make this work before I buy the material. If I use the heat and bond will it make it so that it isn't wavy? Any other suggestions are appreciated. - Oh and my block is now not square - should I just make it larger than I want and cut it down?
#18
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 3
Jill you need to use a stabilizer under your fabric. You can use anything from a commerical stabilizer to tissue paper. This will help the pucking in your design. I have taught several classes in machine applique and have found that tissuer paper, double it and carefully remove it from the stitching. Also do a practice piece using several different stitches available on your machine. Mark the practice piece with the stitch lines that you like to use this as future guideline to you. I usually use a blanket stitch and have had great results with it. You can shorten or lengthen the stitch as desired. Hope this helps.
#19
I tried this last night... WORKS FABULOUSLY. Best ever!
Originally Posted by Prism99
For something like that, I starch the background fabric very heavily before cutting. This is how I do it (fast and easy).
Mix a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo laundry starch and water. (Sta-Flo is sold in a blue quart bottle in the laundry section of most grocery stores.) Lay the fabric out on my kitchen island and "paint" the starch onto the fabric using a large wall painting brush. I saturate the fabric, then toss it in the dryer. Finally, I iron it with steam. This leaves the background fabric about as stiff as cardstock and very stable; there is no need to use a stabilizer under it.
I also starch the applique fabric, although not as heavily.
I prefer using the very tiny, short applique pins to secure the applique to the background. You need at least 3 pins to prevent shifting, but these can be an inch or so away from the edge.
Starching the background fabric heavily prevents "tunneling" of the satin stitch and eliminates the need for a stabilizer underneath. I normally don't use spray starch because I have a lot of trouble controllling over-spray, plus I tend to have my iron too hot and have both gunked up my iron and scorched the spray starch. None of that happens when I use the Sta-Flo method above.
Mix a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo laundry starch and water. (Sta-Flo is sold in a blue quart bottle in the laundry section of most grocery stores.) Lay the fabric out on my kitchen island and "paint" the starch onto the fabric using a large wall painting brush. I saturate the fabric, then toss it in the dryer. Finally, I iron it with steam. This leaves the background fabric about as stiff as cardstock and very stable; there is no need to use a stabilizer under it.
I also starch the applique fabric, although not as heavily.
I prefer using the very tiny, short applique pins to secure the applique to the background. You need at least 3 pins to prevent shifting, but these can be an inch or so away from the edge.
Starching the background fabric heavily prevents "tunneling" of the satin stitch and eliminates the need for a stabilizer underneath. I normally don't use spray starch because I have a lot of trouble controllling over-spray, plus I tend to have my iron too hot and have both gunked up my iron and scorched the spray starch. None of that happens when I use the Sta-Flo method above.
#20
Originally Posted by JLD
So here is a mock up of the pattern that I am trying to use. I did this without heat and bond - but I plan on using it. I am just trying to see if I can make this work before I buy the material. If I use the heat and bond will it make it so that it isn't wavy? Any other suggestions are appreciated. - Oh and my block is now not square - should I just make it larger than I want and cut it down?
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