What did I do wrong? Continuous binding
#21
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 10,590
I never draw the lines; I offset the edges by the bias binding width and when the tube seams are sewn together, I put a cutting board inside it (works well on my ironing board) and using a ruler & rotary cutter, I start cutting at one end, turning the tube as necessary, until I've cut it all. I hate drawing the lines and this no-line method has always worked well for me.
#22
I have 1 really small cutting mat & 1 that is 16" & 1 that is 17" deep; I only make large quilts so either of those bigger ones will fit inside the bias tube. With the method I use, I can just pin the fabric edges together at 2" intervals before I sew them, which is not as precise as drawing and matching up lines, but satisfactory for my purposes. Also, I was given many rolls of adding machine tape back when I worked in an office and, as it is very porous paper, I can sew all bias seams onto the tape and remove it easily when I'm done; it very much helps keep the top and bottom fabrics from going wonky as I sew.
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Madison, Ohio
Posts: 226
I make hundreds of yards of this stuff. Rule is to sew together on the straight or crossgrain. Knick the bias edge at the width you want the bias tape to be. (then sew the last seam) then I put the tube around my ironing board, slip a small mat under the tube and then use a straight edge and just rotary cut to the desired width. Haven't done any marking in years.
#24
I have 1 really small cutting mat & 1 that is 16" & 1 that is 17" deep; I only make large quilts so either of those bigger ones will fit inside the bias tube. With the method I use, I can just pin the fabric edges together at 2" intervals before I sew them, which is not as precise as drawing and matching up lines, but satisfactory for my purposes. Also, I was given many rolls of adding machine tape back when I worked in an office and, as it is very porous paper, I can sew all bias seams onto the tape and remove it easily when I'm done; it very much helps keep the top and bottom fabrics from going wonky as I sew.
#25
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tallmadge, OH
Posts: 5,120
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 383
You want to line up your lines at 1/4" down the line from the edge of the fabric. As explained earlier you put a pin thru both 1/4" points so they line up after it's sewn. I've also drawn a short line against that 1/4" place to "see" to line them up. Because your lines are diagonal they won't line up at the edge but at 1/4" in where you'll sew your 1/4" seam. Clear as mud?
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 383
I make hundreds of yards of this stuff. Rule is to sew together on the straight or crossgrain. Knick the bias edge at the width you want the bias tape to be. (then sew the last seam) then I put the tube around my ironing board, slip a small mat under the tube and then use a straight edge and just rotary cut to the desired width. Haven't done any marking in years.
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12-25-2010 09:49 PM