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What did I do wrong? Continuous binding

What did I do wrong? Continuous binding

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Old 12-13-2012, 06:10 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by weezie View Post
I never draw the lines; I offset the edges by the bias binding width and when the tube seams are sewn together, I put a cutting board inside it (works well on my ironing board) and using a ruler & rotary cutter, I start cutting at one end, turning the tube as necessary, until I've cut it all. I hate drawing the lines and this no-line method has always worked well for me.
Ingenious. So what size cutting mat do you use? That would be a worthy photo tute if you are willing. In one fell swoop you eliminated both reasons why I don't use the tube method of making continuous bias binding.
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:24 AM
  #22  
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I have 1 really small cutting mat & 1 that is 16" & 1 that is 17" deep; I only make large quilts so either of those bigger ones will fit inside the bias tube. With the method I use, I can just pin the fabric edges together at 2" intervals before I sew them, which is not as precise as drawing and matching up lines, but satisfactory for my purposes. Also, I was given many rolls of adding machine tape back when I worked in an office and, as it is very porous paper, I can sew all bias seams onto the tape and remove it easily when I'm done; it very much helps keep the top and bottom fabrics from going wonky as I sew.
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:52 AM
  #23  
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I make hundreds of yards of this stuff. Rule is to sew together on the straight or crossgrain. Knick the bias edge at the width you want the bias tape to be. (then sew the last seam) then I put the tube around my ironing board, slip a small mat under the tube and then use a straight edge and just rotary cut to the desired width. Haven't done any marking in years.
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:00 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by weezie View Post
I have 1 really small cutting mat & 1 that is 16" & 1 that is 17" deep; I only make large quilts so either of those bigger ones will fit inside the bias tube. With the method I use, I can just pin the fabric edges together at 2" intervals before I sew them, which is not as precise as drawing and matching up lines, but satisfactory for my purposes. Also, I was given many rolls of adding machine tape back when I worked in an office and, as it is very porous paper, I can sew all bias seams onto the tape and remove it easily when I'm done; it very much helps keep the top and bottom fabrics from going wonky as I sew.
What I just typed about the adding machine tape is beside the point of continuous binding issues, but when I came back to edit this post and remove it, it was too late. I usually only use the paper support when I sew on the bias; it's much easier than doing heavy starching and then having to wash the starch out afterwards.
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:27 PM
  #25  
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Maybe this video by Jenny Doan will help: http://quiltingtutorials.com/all/con...ns-bias-ruler/
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:56 PM
  #26  
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I have to refer to the directions on this type of binding everytime I use it. I just can't seem to get the technique to stick
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:26 PM
  #27  
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You want to line up your lines at 1/4" down the line from the edge of the fabric. As explained earlier you put a pin thru both 1/4" points so they line up after it's sewn. I've also drawn a short line against that 1/4" place to "see" to line them up. Because your lines are diagonal they won't line up at the edge but at 1/4" in where you'll sew your 1/4" seam. Clear as mud?
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:30 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by brenwalt View Post
I make hundreds of yards of this stuff. Rule is to sew together on the straight or crossgrain. Knick the bias edge at the width you want the bias tape to be. (then sew the last seam) then I put the tube around my ironing board, slip a small mat under the tube and then use a straight edge and just rotary cut to the desired width. Haven't done any marking in years.
This is a great idea. I immediately see what you mean. Boy is that a relief! Thanx
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