Quilter7x

I have a MC 9000 and it does not do very good FMQ. I get a lot of "eyelashes" on the back, so I bought a Bernina 180 and have not had a single "eyelash" since then. Someone told me that machines with a front/side loading bobbin work much better for FMQ than those with a top loading bobbin. Though I only have these two machines to do FMQ with, there's a world of difference between them!

To the original question, Bernina is know for excellent stitches, but I see some other very good replies to your question. My friend has a Pfaff Grand Quilter and absolutely loves it for FMQ, but it is a very loud machine.

franc36

I use my old Bernina Artista 200 with a Bernina Stitch Regulator for FMQ. It works fine for me. Of ourse, I'd really like to have a Bernina 830.

patdesign

I have the Brother 1500s and it has a longer arm and higher arm. It is only a straight stitch, and has a pin feed. It is very stable, weighs a lot, and must be solid state as it has handled anything that fits under the presser foot. It has an awesome walking foot that comes with the machine. I purchased it on ebay new from a seller in Ga last year and got it for less than $700 with free shipping. I would do it again!

patdesign

There are several tutorials on Quilt as you go, since I have 301, 401, 500, 15-91, 201, 221 and Brother 1500s I can tell you that any of those tutorials will work, plus there are some more on u tube. The real issue on any home sewing machine is how much strength you have in your hands, shoulders, neck and PLANNING how you will manipulate the thing through the smaller underarm length. Check out Marti MIchells book on assembling the quilt in larger but manageable pieces, I have found I can handle a width of about 30 to 34 inches by as long as I need, as long as I plan the quilting pattern to suit, meaning not too much bactracking. I have also used an embroidery machine to do blocks which I have later joined up as QAYG. For the emb mach, I use a special hoop that allows me to emb with out hoop burning, it is the magna hoop and costs about $100.00. I purchased a second set of magnets so that the plate will hold through the quilt of sandwich.

MYWR

ditto - except I piece witha brother Pacesetter NX 400 when I am in the middle of FMQ on the Horizon

bhanes

Janome Horizon - great machine

quiltingcurious

thanks for all the good information on FMQ on your 301

tsnana2000

Same here! :D

Buzzy Bee

I use a 18" Tin Lizzie sit down model...
i got it at a Quilt show at show price and it was actlly cheaper than what I paid for any of my brother or
baby Locke machines

thepolyparrot

Thank you! I love my old gals. Like someone else, I have a second 15-91 for backup, but if I needed to, I could use one of my Kenmores - they don't have as much room under the arm, but I actually think they're the most "forgiving" with tension and skipped stitches issues than the Singers.

There really isn't much difference from one machine to another in how you manuever the quilt under the needle. The 15 has a little more room than the 301, but the process is the same.

I do generally start in the center. I do as little marking as possible. On this particular quilt, I didn't mark any of it, I just started doodling in the center and then moved outward toward the edges, dealing with about one square foot at a time.

Another one that I just finished quilting required some marking - there are 49 overlapping 14˝" circles, a feather wreath in each of 49 blocks and 14 long chains of a fleur-de-lis type of design in the sashing/cornerstones. I marked the large circles and for the feathered wreaths, I marked the circles that I would follow for the "spine" of each feather, but I do the feathers freehand and the fleur-de-lis, too.

When I get to the borders, the narrow inner border won't require marking, but the big scalloped feather design will need to have the spines marked to keep them even.

I do drop mine, but it's not necessary. Some people seem to find it easier with them up - whatever works best for you. :)

You're coordinating a lot of activity all at once.

I think I do a lot better when I draw the design a bazillion times on a Dry Erase board before I try to draw it on the quilt. That way, I don't have to think about which way to go next - my hands seem to move automatically to draw the design and I can concentrate on keeping the fabric smooth.