KarenR

This is a good idea. I'll use it in school when I work with the kids sewing.

ThreadHead

Are you PRESSING OR IRONING? If you are not careful you can iron it out of shape. I always pin mine. I also have a 5 inch needle that I use as a steleto. I put the point in the top piece at a 1/4 inch and again on the bottom AS I am sewing, nothing moves. Keep trying. lol

KarenR

pin - pin- pin!! even with pinning my half square triangles sometimes don't line up.

Traditional Quilter

Try measuring all the squares in the row. The first and last square should measure 4.75 -- all those in between should measure 4.50. If they all measure the same, they should lock together. However, if they are off slightly, just pin. Line up the seam, stick a pin straight through the seam (look on the back to make sure the pin is coming out through the seam and not the allowance), keep that pin straight while placing a pin on either side catching the allowances, then remove the first pin leaving the two in the seam allowances. I place my pins so that the points are toward the edge. They seem less likely to get caught on my presser foot that way, and they are easy to remove with my left hand. Also, when possible feed the fabric so that the seam allowance is toward the needle rather than facing away. I find that the pinking shear cut on precut pieces are difficult to line up evenly and get exact measurements. I highly recommend Harriet Hargrave's Quilting Academy Series. She has four books out - Freshman, Sophomore, Junior and Senior. I had trouble getting my seams to lock until I followed her lessons. The first time I put seams together and didn't have to pin was exciting. Her methods aren't speedy, but they are accurate. Getting the correct measurement of your square or block is more important than an exact 1/4 inch seam. Good luck.

love 2 sew

I learned the most I ever have about piecing from this book. I checked it out at the library. The best for me was how to accurately chain piece, ending with the needle down and butting the next piece to be sewn against it. Pin, pin, pin and go slow. Going slow means you can sew over pins. Loved it!

lfstamper

You need to pin at each intersection by placing a pin through the first square at 1/4" then through the next square at 1/4" then back through the seam very straight. I sew as close to the pin as possible before I remove it so that I don't get much shifting. I also press my seams open. Fork pins are also a good tool to use. Good luck!

Spudgm

I really struggled with this also, but as others have said - going slow and pinning really help and then you just need practice. Hang in there it will get better.

DogHouseMom

I would like to recommend a good book and accompanying DVD. "Mastering Precision Piecing" by Sally Collins. I ... and a few others here on the board call this book the "primer". Her methods will teach you how to concentrate on getting accurate seams starting with cutting, pinning, sewing and pressing.

the amazon link below should pull up a search that will show both the book and the DVD.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...n+%2Caps%2C234

Prism99

It's hard to describe. It's an industrial sewing technique that evens out how two pieces feed (when the sewing machine is not doing a good job of it.)

One thing you can do is lift up both strips in your hand so you are feeding into the presser foot at about 90 degree angle. Basically what this is doing is putting more stress on the lower strip and less strip on the upper strip. This corrects a tendency on some machines to feed the bottom strip faster than the top strip.

Test your machine by taking two strips of the same length (say, two strips width-of-fabric). Start the strips so the ends are exactly together. After sewing them the entire length, see if one strip is shorter than the other strip. If it is, chances are it is the bottom strip that is shorter. The above technique will help correct that tendency.

You can also sew by holding just the top strip higher and just holding down the bottom strip a bit with your thumb, but I find that more difficult to do. Sort of like trying to pat your head and rub your tummy at the same time.

If you do the test and the top strip is shorter than the bottom strip, then your presser foot is probably too tight. On a lot of machines you can lighten the presser foot pressure.

Also, using a walking foot to piece will even out how the two strips feed. However, I find using a walking foot annoying when I am piecing.

Dolphyngyrl

I agree you need to do accurate cutting. Once I got my june tailor shape cut I found my strips were more accurate as well as my seams