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  • finished two ragged flannels

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    Old 12-20-2009, 04:07 AM
      #21  
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    Thanks, everyone! You are right when you say they're warm and cuddy--I call them "a hug-to-go!" There's no particular pattern, but I wrote out the directions and have posted them here several times... let me know if you'd like them again.
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    Old 12-20-2009, 04:24 AM
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    They are wonderful. Great job.
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    Old 12-20-2009, 07:19 AM
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    They're both wonderful :!: The second is my favourite. I love the colours
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    Old 12-20-2009, 07:22 AM
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    I really love those. GREAT JOB!
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    Old 12-20-2009, 10:00 AM
      #25  
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    Originally Posted by barnbum
    There's no particular pattern, but I wrote out the directions and have posted them here several times... let me know if you'd like them again.
    Can you point me to the thread where they were? I'd like to make one of these, they look so nice. Thanks!
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    Old 12-20-2009, 10:09 AM
      #26  
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    Here you go, Eddie... it's easier to just post them again. I've always stuck to the 7" square because then I can use all the leftovers to make more. Let me know if you have any questions. :-D

    1. Buy your flannel—2 colors, or more. I’ve discovered it takes 1 yard to make 10 full 7” squares (full meaning both sides). Most of my raggeds have been about 9x12.

    2. Also buy some Warm and Natural cotton batting—about 3 yards because it’s extra long? (I’m not good at yardage—but that one you can get more of if you need to.)

    3. There are many options as to square size. You can cut your flannel into 6 inch, 7 inch, 8 inch squares. The bigger they are, the faster it’ll go together, but the smaller the squares, the more interesting your pattern will be. I always cut the flannel into 7 inch squares. If you want, you can cut any scrap pieces into rectangles 7 x 4 inch pieces. Two rectangles sewn together will equal one square. They add even more fun to the finished product!

    4. Cut the batting into 5 ¾” squares. For rectangles, the batting needs to be 5 ¾ x 2 ¾ inches.

    5. Choose 2 flannel squares of the same color and 1 batting square. Layer the squares of batting between the 2 quilt squares so the right sides of the flannel are facing the out. (let me know if you need a picture) Then sew each square from corner to corner—so there’s an X across the square. I eye it up, but you may want to draw on a line to follow. Use a continuous seam to sew these together, first one line, then the other. Are you familiar with the continuous seam? It’s so easy, and makes things so much faster, AND it saves on thread!

    6. For any rectangle pieces, I just sew a wavy line from the middle of one short side to the middle of the opposite side.

    7. Complete every square and rectangle in this way.

    8. Lay out the squares in the pattern you like. Take a picture if you have a digital camera.

    9. Pick up each row by starting at one end and stacking each square under the previous one. Label each pile with its row number. Pin the row number on the top square.

    10. Sew all the rows together, using a ½ seam. Make sure all seams are on the same side.

    11. Sew each row to the next, pinning at every seam so they match perfectly. Lock the seams—meaning have one folded to each side as they are sewn together. Make sure all seams are on the same side. (I always goof at least once and have to rip a row apart.) It pays to double check.

    12. Now sew around the whole quilt using a ½ seam.

    13. Once the whole quilt is together, you need to rag it. First I clip all the sewed down parts at the seams. Recently I've learned to start with the side that lays the flattest. I place the quilt, folded at a seam facing toward me, on the ironing board, and clip almost to the seam—all the way from one end to the other—about ¼- ½ inch apart. The directions say to snip right to the seam, but I have never gotten that close. Now and then, you will cut through the seam. Just stick it under your sewing machine and repair it by sewing over that area again. It happens.

    14. Once ever seam is clipped, clip around the whole outside.

    15. Now, shake your beautiful creation outside to get some of the lint off.

    16. Most directions say to wash the quilt now, but I have found it works to just spray the front well with water, and wet the back a bit too. You decide what you’d like to do.

    17. Shake the quilt outside again. Then put it in the dryer. The dryer will be what makes the seams rag up.

    18. Now and then clean your lint filter and even shake the quilt outside again.

    19. Smile, you’re done. :-D
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    Old 12-20-2009, 01:31 PM
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    Thanks for the directions, I think I understand the most of it. It sounds like this is kind of like a quilt-as-you-go project, correct? You are making quilted blocks and then sewing those quilted blocks together? I have a TON of W&N batting scraps, it sounds like this would be great for that.

    Also, can you explain the "continuous seam" method of doing an X quilting stitch? Not sure I'm following how that works. Thanks!

    I think I'm going to head out to Wal-Mart and see what flannel I can dig up!
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    Old 12-20-2009, 01:40 PM
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    Hi Eddie,
    Yes--I use almost all scraps of W&N to make my raggeds--the batting for the rectangles is so small! I try to use everything--and the scraps come from trimming up quilts I've gotten back from the quilters.

    Continuous seam--take a pile of squares to be quilted and get the first one under the machine...just as it's at the end, stick the next one under and go! Then the next and the next, until you have a kind of kite tail made. Once the pile is through, snip them apart and do the other way.

    Sometimes I stop 1/2" from the end and lift the needle and place it 1/2" into the next piece--but it doesn't make much of a difference in the end.

    I quilted lines on the striped fabric--thought Xs would look silly.

    Hope that helps!
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    Old 12-20-2009, 01:44 PM
      #29  
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    Ahhh! Got it! Chain piecing! :D
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    Old 12-20-2009, 01:47 PM
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    Yup! :wink:
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