Ripping Fabric questions
 

So the LQS I frequent rips their fabric instead of tearing. I asked them about it, have read about how it straightens the grain (I might not be stating that correctly - but I know it has to do with straight and the grain).

It seems to distort the fabric along the edges (sometimes a lot).

Before I rotary cut I do the "fabric dance" adjust the fabric so that it hangs straight. On the attached picture you can see that the fabric was quite skewed (I had to cut off approximately 2 inches to get to a straight edge to cut the rest of the pieces). Although I guess the edges were straight (though a little distorted). I don't know if this is due to the ripping or just the fabric is just that far off. Is this normal? I have seen many references to ripping lengthwise (not selvage to selvage). They tear selvedge to selvedge at the LQS. Is this wrong?

Also, there are many who swear by ripping long borders and backing. Do you rip and straighten the edges? Or does it rip with straight edges? And you do not rip selvage to selvage, right? (just checking, the fabric is folded selvage to selvage on a bolt, right?). I am curious enough to want to try this, but afraid of doing it wrong and ruining my fabric!

I have had to cut quite a bit too, after getting a straight fold, then the rest of the fabric is askew. Even after I rip the fabric, it can be a bit off. This is not inexpensive fabric by the way.

I am not fond of the torn edge. It leave a bruised edge that I cannot use. In my mind what does it matter anyway. With all the angles that pieces are cut and sewn, they are not all exactly on grain. Then think of the quilts Grandma made with all those scraps cut every which way. They still made some awesome quilts.

Ripping or tearing from selvedge to selvedge bugs me! It's because the width of fabric has much more stretch to it than lenghtwise (parallel to selvedge). The ONLY time I appreciate it being ripped at the fabric store is with wide back--and then when a knowledgeable clerk first cuts the fabric at the fold and then gently tears it out toward edges one layer at a time.
Because most fabric is not straight on the bolt, I tend to buy about 1/8 yd more than I need to allow enough once it's straighted--using what you call the "fabric dance" (great name!)
I will often buy enough fabric so that on borders that are going to be more than 3.5" in width, I can tear them on the lenghtwise grain--then you get true straight grain borders. I was told when doing this to allow about an extra 1/8" so that the torn edge is not where the actual seam will be (and thus avoid the possibility of a weaker seam).

I am a fan of ripped fabric to get the straight of grain. When I took 4-H, many moons ago, we were taught to square up fabric in the shape you are showing. Invite a friend to take two corners. You take the other two. You pull the corners opposite each other until the fabric has been straightened out.

I can't say I've needed to do this in a long time.

I always rip for borders. It's accurate and so much faster. When cross-ripping it does distort the fabric edge a bit, but you can iron that back down and hide it in the seam allowance. Ripping does follow the grain, and is accurate.

Rather than lose you as a customer, Tartan, I'm sure any shop would be glad to comply with your request that they cut, rather than tear, your fabric purchases. Just ask them not to tear.

I agree with Tartan. I've seen too much fabric ripped or torn, leaving edges which are unusable as a result of the ripping/tearing of fabric.

Jeanette

I overcast the raw edges and wash and dry the fabric.

Sometimes that will make the fabric "relax" and it straightens itself.

The straight of grain is along the torn edge. If you don't want to wash the fabric to see what happens, you can try to pull it into alignment. Sometimes the fabric is processed so that one will have to live with it being wonky.

I will - very reluctantly - use fabric that is wonky if I can't get it straightened. But that causes me pain.

The quilting teachers I've had said the same thing as Tartan -- you lose around 1" in damaged fabric on each side when it's torn. You need to cut that off before you can start cutting your pieces or it can impact your precision in addition to generally just not looking pretty.

There are times where I will rip ... if it's extra wide fabric or if it's more off-grain than usual (within reason, some fabric just can't be straightened). It is the most fool-proof way to get a straight edge, but it does come at a price. I typically prefer shops that rotary cut my fabric. It tends to be the most accurate & really isn't that difficult to for me to straighten at home with as little as an extra 1/8yd of fabric.
There is one LQS by me that I have to really be careful when I shop there. They sell amazing repro fabrics, but tear everything, including fat eighth's & I never know what I'm going to get unless I open everything up and measure it in the store. It's really not ideal to tear on both the lengthwise and crosswise grains. They claim it's extra accurate, but that's certainly not been my experience. They routinely vary by 1.25 - 1.875" and the worst one I had was somehow on the bias. They claim it was rotary cut but it was awfully frayed & was 7.5" long on the right side & 11" long on the left side -- the width was better but still varied by over 1" and then on top of that, I had to cut off the pulled/puckered threads and square the thing up. I stopped shopping there for a long while, but they were very apologetic when I finally returned and always offer to help me check to make sure I get the "right" pre-cuts for me. I normally only buy manufacturer pre-cuts or yardage, but this one shop gets special deals on random repro fabrics that arrive in all sorts of lengths & then get torn up by store employees to form FQ's or F8's. So many fun & unique little prints that are all far too tempting! Just have to be cautious & know who is cutting or tearing your fabrics so you're prepared for the aftermath.