Glassquilt

What's the biggest practical size for PP sections/blocks?

tealfalcon

i am not sure...but you can always enlarge any pattern to whatever size you want

Glassquilt

10", 20", 30", etc?

Lori S

Having been "burned" by a PP pattern that called for tracing all the sections ( no papers included, even though the price was big $$) and then the sections did not fit of regular size copy paper, had to use archectural size sheets , again big $$. I am still feeling the pain on this one does it show?
I typically like anything that will fit on standard size paper or even legal size.
That would include blocks that can be assembled in sections , so even a section of a block fitting on regular paper.
I did draft my own pattern once that had large pieces. I used a glue stick ( small dots) hold the fabric in place so when I "flipped" to sew the fabric would be where its supposed to be. I think if I was to do it again I would try spray basting the fabric to hold it so when I flipped it it would not fold back on itself or get otherwise unplaced.

QuiltnNan

the sky's the limit on pp. but, for practical reasons, the largest section should be printable on a standard 8.5x11 paper.

MTS

I don't know if you're talking one piece of a PP or multiple smaller sections into large ones.

It doesn't matter (aside from printing considerations, but foundations can always be joined).

What ultimately determines the size of a particular PP foundation is the nature of the shapes, and how many pieces you can sew contiguously without running into the PP wall, where you can't sew the next piece on completely with a straight seam - it jigs or jags or something.

I've made a Kaleidoscope (a la Paula Naderstern) that was ~60" inches across, so each ray was 25" long, but made up of many smaller sections.
But that was only because the piecing of the intricate design required it .
If I could have done it on one foundation, I would have - even at that size.


eta: Actually, I wouldn't have. Even if it could have been done on one foundation, ther would have to be break somewhere, and I would have probably broken it down into two sections.

What would be the big deal about that one seam, especially as it would probably NOT require any matching of points?

Glassquilt

The design requested may have long, narrow rays that would be approximately 20"long x 1"-1½" wide, tapering to the point.

MTS

Then in that case, I would definitely do it as one piece as chopping the rays in half wouldn't look great.
And you don't need anymore bulk at the point.

I usually use vellum (11"x17"), so I would join two pieces with a few dabs of glue stick (non permanent).

The extra length will ensure that the rays are the correct width and stay on a straight line.

I don't think the issue will be the wider end - it will be the tapered point.
You want to keep that as stabilized and as accurate as possible so you'll be able to easily join the sections.

The freezer paper method is another possible option.

But the process of paper removal - as long it's vellum and not copy paper - never bothers me as much as it does others.

If I understand correctly, the pattern doesn't call for PP, but you just think it would be a better way of dealing with it?
From what I'm visualizing, I agree and would probably take the same route.

Do you have a picture (or are you keeping it under wraps )?

NJ Quilter

Don't know that there is an easy answer to this question. Some very complicated patterns require large pieces; others require lots of really small pieces. As with many other things...it depends.

Glassquilt

Keeping it under wraps. As long as it's in the design stage I can change things.
It's a gift.