Help, Please :)
#51
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Newberg, OR
Posts: 1,911
I second the suggestion about the presser foot pressure.
I swear by the Supreme Slider. It's a teflon sheet that creates a slick surface under your quilt to reduce drag. Some have had trouble with them, but I love mine. You can't use a walking foot with it, however.
http://www.softexpressions.com/softw...SewingMach.php
I swear by the Supreme Slider. It's a teflon sheet that creates a slick surface under your quilt to reduce drag. Some have had trouble with them, but I love mine. You can't use a walking foot with it, however.
http://www.softexpressions.com/softw...SewingMach.php
#53
My method is to put backing on a smooth floor & use masking tap around the edges (do not stretch) just lay flat with no wrinkles - lay batting over that & again smooth out & tape to the backing fabric or to the floor (do not stretch) - lay quilt top over that & check for squareness...smooth out & tape it to batting, backing or floor (whatever is under edge) - safety pin (quilting pins with the bend in the center) starting in the center & work in a circle ever 3 to 4 inches between pins (a lot of pins are key) - when complete trim edges to quilt top (maintaining the squareness) - now start quilting using a walking foot & be sure the pressure is properly set (actually proper pressure/tension looks & feels kind of loose) figure what your longest "run" will be (stitch in the ditch or across the ditches) & start with the longest runs & then go to second longest, etc. - the only time I have ever got "gathers" is when I crossed the first "long runs" with a secondary run (only happened a few times) - the key is a lot of pins very close & proper tension on the walking foot - good luck!
#54
Well Schoolmarm, this is an on-going debate, but I spray baste and have for at least 120 for my 140 quilts made. When I first learned to quilt the pinning drove me mad so I tried spray basting and haven't pinned since. It took some practice but the results are so superior to pinning. No puckers at all. I really think pinning is carried over from when quilts were hand quilted because the puckers could be smoothed out in an "as-you-go" method. The advent of machine quilting calls for something different and spray basting works for me. I can spray baste a king quilt in less than an hour by myself on my king size bed, and no pins to get in the way of quilting.
#55
I've only done a few quilts, but like others have stated, since I've started taping my backing down, I've had better results. I use masking tape on all four sides of the backing, taping one side down then pulling the fabric taut and taping the opposite side down. Then I move to the sides and pull each side taut before taping down. Then I lay the batting and smooth starting from the center. I then lay the top on the bottom layers and once again smooth from the center. I haven't tried taping each layer, but did have that recommended to me. I have used both pins and spray basting and had no troubles since I started this way. Before when I just hand-smoothed the layers, I did have puckering.
Thanks for mentioning that donated quilts shouldn't have spray basting. I never thought of that and this is something I really want to start participating in.
Good luck!! You'll get it!
Thanks for mentioning that donated quilts shouldn't have spray basting. I never thought of that and this is something I really want to start participating in.
Good luck!! You'll get it!
#58
Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 34
Yes, I have an acrilic "extender table" that fits around the sewing arm of my Bernina, and it's been great. (I saw it at a New Jersey quilt show and ordered it from a quilting supply store that was exhibiting there.) In addition, when quilting a bed quilt, I move my machine so I have a table behind the machine to extend the support area further and avoid the drop and drag of the part already sewn/quilted. If necessary, I also add a small table to my left to support more of the quilt. If this isn't clear, let me know and I'll try to take a picture.
Also, in regard to pinning, I once saw Alex Anderson suggest using a grapefruit spoon with safety pins, to close the pins. It's a great help for my fingers!
Also, in regard to pinning, I once saw Alex Anderson suggest using a grapefruit spoon with safety pins, to close the pins. It's a great help for my fingers!
#59
http://inspiredbykristal.wordpress.c...pray-adhesive/
I use 505 frequently on quilts on my longarm if I have a floppy side border or to hold the bottom border down to the batting after I unpin it from the leader. I remember reading somewhere that the National Quilt Museum uses 505 when repairing their antique quilts because after 6 months (with no washing) it is gone completely, leaving no residue. I would think that if you used the 505 and washed the quilt after it was bound, you would not endanger anyone with the chemicals.
I use 505 frequently on quilts on my longarm if I have a floppy side border or to hold the bottom border down to the batting after I unpin it from the leader. I remember reading somewhere that the National Quilt Museum uses 505 when repairing their antique quilts because after 6 months (with no washing) it is gone completely, leaving no residue. I would think that if you used the 505 and washed the quilt after it was bound, you would not endanger anyone with the chemicals.
#60
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Lebanon Missouri
Posts: 2,668
I hand baste the quilt into5 sections =center and corners Because I quilt on a treadle I found that if I start quilting my center section out towards the corners I have no puckers Altho I've been told this is the wrong way it works for me but only on my treadle Go figure
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