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Old 08-28-2009, 09:05 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by JoanneS
I found out for myself that even a so-called GOOD brand of thread can have a lot of lint. I've posted pictures of the quilt I'm machine quilting with Anita Goodesign software - 80 5" x 5" block + sashing. I've used 2 different threads I already had in my 'collection.' It's A LOT of machine quilting. And a lot of thread.

First, I used Sulky 30 wt Blendables Long-Staple Cotton, because I liked the color variation. I had to stop & clean the fuzz out FREQUENTLY. I can just imagine how much is in places I can't reach. I'm taking my machine to be cleaned as soon as I finish this project - if it doesn't stop working before I finish!
I hope your machine hangs on until you are done. I used Sulky for my Hoffman Challenge entry because they are now a co-sponsor. It was the first time I had ever used it and I will never do so again. :evil:
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:07 AM
  #52  
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You would need a spool stand to use larger cones of thread.
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:11 AM
  #53  
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You can sit the cone in a quart or pint jar. That works just fine. Don't waste your money on the lightweight plastic thread holders. They aren't sturdy enough.
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:18 AM
  #54  
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I used the CT thread and got too much lint. I will NOT use C&C, way too linty and cheap. It will ultimately cost more in damage to my machines.

So, I use Superior, Aurafil and Mettler excusively. I'm a thread snob I suppose.
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:33 AM
  #55  
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It seems most of the thread I use is Guttermann. I've never had any problems with lint buildup. For my latest quilt, I went through 10+ bobbins of thread with little or no buildup at all. I did brush out the bobbin area after each bobbin change, but found nothing. This was with Gutterman variagated in the bobbin and invisible thread on top.
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:57 AM
  #56  
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Hi everyone, I worked in a quilt shop long ago and as part of learning about quilting, this is what I learned. We were told that the less expensive types of thread were basically made up of material that was like getting the dryer lint and rolling it all together
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:59 AM
  #57  
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Oops, here ya go.
"Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any
machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately
37 times in a “seesaw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor quality
thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed
thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing
machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size needle, and
properly adjusted thread tensions.
Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread
must be considered for use with today’s fabrics for fine stitches.
Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a
single ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long
while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.
Ply – number of strands twisted together to make a single thread.
Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching,
causing the stitch to appear slightly crooked. Poor quality threads are
more likely to roll.
Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into
a single ply. Thread should not untwist during stitching. This will cause
skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots in
seams."
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Old 08-28-2009, 10:00 AM
  #58  
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"Right twist – most American
threads are twisted to the right,
causing some rolling. This gives
average stitch quality.
Left twist – Most commercial and
imported threads are twisted to
the left, giving better than average
stitch quality. Left twist resists
rolling and makes a larger loop for
the hook point to enter, reducing
skipped stitches.
Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and
marketing of many new thread types, such as rayons and metallics.
Threads made in West Germany are left twist threads; Mettler and
Isacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while
holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towards
you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.
Fiber – refers to the type of material used to produce the thread.
Some commonly used threads:
• Polyester 2 ply – such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothing
construction on man-made, natural or blended fabrics. Will
tolerate heat up to 450° Fahrenheit.
• Polyester 3 ply cordonnet – topstitching or buttonhole twist –
such as Mettler 30/3.
• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 60/2 – excellent for French
Machine Sewing, delicate machine embroidery, piecing and
darning.
• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 30/2 – loose twist for a soft,
shiny look in machine embroidery, applique, and buttonholes.
• Cotton 3 ply – such as Mettler 50/3 – excellent for clothing
construction on natural fibers. Tighter twist than embroidery
cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton
thread stretches less than polyester.
• Rayon – a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton,
it is used for decorative work only.
• Polyester 2 ply embroidery thread – Isacord and Polysheen
embroidery thread – excellent for embroidery, very abrasion
resistant.
Thread Storage
Thread does deteriorate with age and should be stored with care
to keep it usable as long as possible. Extreme moisture may cause
thread to swell while very dry conditions can leave it dry and brittle
as it ages. Store thread in a covered container (thread box with a lid,
cabinet with doors, or drawers that close) if possible to keep it dustfree"
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Old 08-28-2009, 10:14 AM
  #59  
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Wow, a lesson we all needed. I've copied this for my quilting room, for future reference.
Thank you very much.
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Old 08-28-2009, 10:56 AM
  #60  
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I too am a fan of connecting threads...heard about it on a forum....very little lint....
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