Cleaning and repairing the Shellac clear coat on Vintage sewing machine heads
07-06-2012, 06:41 PM
#42
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Bobbie you sure can. Just make sure you remove the loose japan and paint it with the aniline dye stain I described and then polish with the shellac technique and it should come out fine. Skip
07-06-2012, 08:06 PM
#43
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Glenn, your time has been well spent here. There are tons of vintage machines that will be salvaged due to this thread. While most folks treasure looks over function, this method of restoration will be sure that each is worthy of best of both worlds!
Just remember folks, these machines have history worthy of saving, stitch by stitch. Each time you "fix" a machine to increase its value, even if it is just its looks, a wee bit of the past is saved. Our young ones are paying attention, to be sure!
Just remember folks, these machines have history worthy of saving, stitch by stitch. Each time you "fix" a machine to increase its value, even if it is just its looks, a wee bit of the past is saved. Our young ones are paying attention, to be sure!
07-07-2012, 02:23 AM
#44
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Glenn, your time has been well spent here. There are tons of vintage machines that will be salvaged due to this thread. While most folks treasure looks over function, this method of restoration will be sure that each is worthy of best of both worlds!
Just remember folks, these machines have history worthy of saving, stitch by stitch. Each time you "fix" a machine to increase its value, even if it is just its looks, a wee bit of the past is saved. Our young ones are paying attention, to be sure!
Just remember folks, these machines have history worthy of saving, stitch by stitch. Each time you "fix" a machine to increase its value, even if it is just its looks, a wee bit of the past is saved. Our young ones are paying attention, to be sure!
07-07-2012, 06:22 AM
#45
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Great thread.
I am a bit confused though.
Why don't you use lacquer rather than shellac. I use lacquer and spray it when I'm completed with paint restoration, then buff. The key question is?
Did Singer et. al. use clear lacquer or shellac?
Thanks,
Dan
I am a bit confused though.
Why don't you use lacquer rather than shellac. I use lacquer and spray it when I'm completed with paint restoration, then buff. The key question is?
Did Singer et. al. use clear lacquer or shellac?
Thanks,
Dan
07-07-2012, 05:07 PM
#46
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singer used shellac not lacquer I use only the original finish on these machines. I touch up the japan with alcohol based aniline dye mixed with shellac. i never repaint a machine. I always restore with the original products.
07-08-2012, 08:57 AM
#48
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Since I have now cleaned 2 machines using this method, here is a useful tip. When cleaning those areas that have heavy residue embedded in the japan, apply the alcohol/linseed mix and wait half a minute. You can sure tell when the grunge is ready to be wiped off! It starts to get tacky instead of just waiting for a quick wipe. Then, I apply a bit more of the mix with a cotton swab on the worst areas only. The results are amazing!
I also use those blue shop/paper towels instead of fabric. Yes, they cost more but I find myself doing a neater job when working. Instead of searching for a clean area of the rag, I grab a new towel! No lint, great at holding the mixture in one spot instead of bleeding through to larger areas. Plus, this way I don't have to go searching through my DH rag bag!!
I also use those blue shop/paper towels instead of fabric. Yes, they cost more but I find myself doing a neater job when working. Instead of searching for a clean area of the rag, I grab a new towel! No lint, great at holding the mixture in one spot instead of bleeding through to larger areas. Plus, this way I don't have to go searching through my DH rag bag!!
07-08-2012, 01:01 PM
#49
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
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Since I have now cleaned 2 machines using this method, here is a useful tip. When cleaning those areas that have heavy residue embedded in the japan, apply the alcohol/linseed mix and wait half a minute. You can sure tell when the grunge is ready to be wiped off! It starts to get tacky instead of just waiting for a quick wipe. Then, I apply a bit more of the mix with a cotton swab on the worst areas only. The results are amazing!
I also use those blue shop/paper towels instead of fabric. Yes, they cost more but I find myself doing a neater job when working. Instead of searching for a clean area of the rag, I grab a new towel! No lint, great at holding the mixture in one spot instead of bleeding through to larger areas. Plus, this way I don't have to go searching through my DH rag bag!!
I also use those blue shop/paper towels instead of fabric. Yes, they cost more but I find myself doing a neater job when working. Instead of searching for a clean area of the rag, I grab a new towel! No lint, great at holding the mixture in one spot instead of bleeding through to larger areas. Plus, this way I don't have to go searching through my DH rag bag!!
07-09-2012, 07:46 AM
#50
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,334
Skip, great tut, as always. I so appreciate your advice. I'm wondering though where to look for evaporrust. My DH and son left some fishing lures down in the boat last week and the hooks got rusty from the heavy rain that came down. I'm thinking that soaking the hooks in evaporrust might be the solution to the problem. If the hooks aren't sharp (and rust sure makes them dull) the fish don't get caught. I've got to find a way to get the rust off. Then, I can use evaporrust on the machines I find as well.
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