hybearn8er

I just picked up a singer 99- and was wondering what the difference was between it and the 99k. Which is older? Thanks for any information you might have. Anna

Blackberry

I think the only difference is that the K has something to do with where it was manufactured. But don't hold that comment to be gospel truth because I really do not know.

J Miller

The first paragraph here: http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_...ist/index.html
explains the letters and dash found after the model numbers of Singer machines.

Joe

hybearn8er

Thank you! I thought I had read about them somewhere but couldn't remember where.

collector49

The "K" stands for Killbowie, Scotland.

Morag

Yep! the K says that the machine was made in the Kilbowie plant in Clyde Bank SCOTLAND I have one and would not part with it..... I'm looking for a 185K now

sandysmom

I have what comes up as a 99K when looking at the Singer website using the serial number. BUT it was made in England and it looks nothing like the pictures that I have seen of the 99K. Not sure how to figure out what it is. There is no reverse and no way that I can figure out to changes stitch length

Macybaby

It's not really "England" it's United Kingdom. Kilbowie, Scotand is part of the UK.

However, if what you have is NOT a 99, then you have most likely misread the serial number, or you've looked it up incorrectly (very easy to miss a digit either way).

Older ones have a knob above the Singer emblem on the pillar, and you turn it to adjust stitch length. Newer ones have levers with numbers on them. However the basic machine looks the same.

This is a 66 (99 is about the same but smaller) - see the nickel knob right below the bobbin winder? That is the stitch length adjustor.



this is a much later made 99K

Mickey2

If you have the earlier version it has nice decals and a stitch length knob (a chromed screw you turn in and out), outer position gives longest sititch lenght, turned all the way in it's minimal to no feed of the fabric. It's all about cleaning and oiling, turning the knob in and out, oiling the threads in the screw-knob. Oil generously in the oil points on top of the machine, it will dribble down on the parts inside (hinged and moving parts), let the machine run a bit as you do this, turning the stitch length knob in and out. When you have done this a several times, keep the knob in outer position, it gives maximum movements of joints and hinges, a pluss for getting oil into the most inner parts. Under the machine you will detect lots of hinges, and cam like rolling parts, oil all of them well, these are the parts connected the movements of the feed dogs, which equals stitch length.

You have to slide the bobbin plate completely off, you will detect a lever, slide it towards you and it will release the bobbin case. unscrew the needle plate and clean the feed dogs. Lots of felted dust can clog up the movement all together.

After reading and postinging here on QB I have discovered the UK made machines often came in wooden cases with a separate extension table. At least on the later 99s, the US made cases were made different, and with out the extension table. Over the years there were made at least 3 different version of model 99, and the different factories made them all, four if you include 185. This is a nice site for info on the development of model 99.

Mickey2

Post a picture :- )