Jenniky

Great Input K9dancer Thank you.

On this first project I am using a low loft polyester batting on my QAYG and I am using a low heat iron on the fabric I am basting to it. So far I have never had any problems with melting. Also I never put the iron directly on the batting. I only let the iron come in contact with the 100% cotton fabric I am basting to the batting.

In a future QAYG technique quilt that I will be sharing the process of, I will be hand basting the squares, and also will pin baste some of the projects. So we can have an a discussion on various ways of basting.

I highly encourage sharing what works best for you continually as we explore QAYG techniques.

Thankyou again K9dancer. Umm! my Yorkshire wants to have the next dance... He is a real fun dancer himself.

k9dancer

Hi Jen,
I wanted to emphasize the facts you stated above, as that is SO important. I, for one, set my iron on high and it stays there for the duration, which could be really bad if I used poly batting. And with cotton batting, you must be prepared for shrinkage when pressing.

I'll clear a space on my dance card for your Yorkie.

VickiM

Will you share some pictures with us of the quilts you have made using this technique???

Has anyone else used this technique and if so would you share pictures of your quilt with us??

Here are some pics of tablerunners & a quilt I did with the fun & done method. The scrap strip runners are the fun & done with the rulers. The blocks are 8 1/2". The runner & quilt are BOM I did with the fun & done technique, but they are 12 1/2" unfinished blocks...so I cut my batting the 12 1/2" & my backings are 14 1/2". I marked 1" all around the backing pieces, centered the top & batting (spray basted) & quilted away. Then put all together the way the fun & done is put together. The 1st runner is all the same fabric for the backing, the 2nd runner is 2 different fabrics (like this look for the front), the 3rd runner is the fabric same as the outer border (this one is the one I experiemented with adding an inner border), and the quilt has flannel for the backings & so carries over to the front. Very easy once you get the hang of it. So, fun & done can be used with rulers or without. It can be done the original way or with finished blocks. I also experimented with putting extra borders on the outsides & adding an inner border strip. Does this help you any, Jen?

dublb

Oh Vicki, how purdy!

k9dancer

I have a web album that shows some of the pics. You can't see the whole quilt, as I do not have a wall or ladder big/tall enough.

\https://picasaweb.google.com/1141131...eat=directlink

Jenniky

VickiM - Thank you for sharing with us. You have made some very beautiful quilts with the Fun & Done Technique and yes it was very helpful to see some completed quilts with this process.

K9dancer- Your log cabin quilt is beautiful, A lot of love went into making all those squares. Thank you for sharing it with us.

So Ladies shall we explore the Fun & Done technique when we finish with the current method? My thoughts were to stay with the current method and next explore the variations of the Block by Block QAYG method we are currently discussing. If there is more interest in moving on to the Fun & Done method we can do that and then revisit the Block by Block QAYG Variations later. Post your vote and I will keep tally as we continue our current project discussions.

Patricia Faye

My vote is to stay with the current method and then explore the variations of the Block by Block QAYG method.

rwquilts

Vicki, thanks for posting pics for the fun and done method.

Jenniky, yes, that video is the one I was talking about and I, like you didn't really like it because of the poor sound quality and it is somewhat fuzzy, but I also went to others and was able to grasp the basics regarding it I think. If a person is working with traditional blocks, such as 12 1/2" unfinished, you do have to cut the backings and batting pieces in those sizes, which changes the size of the quilt, but I rather liked being able to cut just one piece of batting and one backing per quilt square? I will eagerly follow whatever you are doing and watch, but probably will just try the fun and done for now because I don't want a lot of extra steps to a finished quilt? But I have tons of projects, so no hurries on that for sure! You're doing a fabulous job by the way and this must keep you very busy?

Jenniky

Thank you Ronda and yes this project and thread is keeping me very busy.. and Its a good busy. I really enjoying myself as I hope everyone else is.

Jenniky

Going to share a problem with you that I ran into on my first attempt of attaching squares on my other BOM quilt. One of my squares that I quilted the top squared pulled in some because I forgot lengthen my machine stitch for quilting instead I had been doing PP and I was using smaller stitching. So I figured if I went a head an squared up the block to match the other blocks at 12.5 I would be ok. Now I had about a 1/4 of an inch batting showing all the way around a few places a tad bit more in some. " So Im thinking to myself that the sashing will cover up my goof. Well for the most part it did. However there was still some batting that showed through I ended up pulling out my stitches (frogging) and had to rework my square. So I would recommend before you even start attaching your units if you have any batting showing you trim all of your squares down so they are the same size and there is no batting showing and don't forget to sew less than a 1/4" around the edges to help secure your quilted stitches. Just a thought and experience I wanted to share.

MAKE SURE:
To help prevent the quilted block from unraveling sew a less than 1/4" inch seam all the way around the block.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]353628[/ATTACH]

Now I am ready to attach my Sashing pieces to the first unit block. This partial tutorial I am only going to discuss how to attach the sashing to the first unit. This variation will give you a half an inch of sashing showing between the blocks. In a later variation we will cover step by step how to accommodate wider sashing’s using this technique.

OPTION: You can sew the sashing strips on in two steps or one. I am going to show you how to sew it in one step.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]353629[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]353630[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]353631[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]353632[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]353633[/ATTACH]



First step take your top sashing piece and lay it right sides together on the top edge of your block side that you will be attaching. Next take your folded 1-3/4” bottom sashing piece and line up the raw edges with the backside edge of the block you are attaching.
Use pins to hold the strips in place.


[ATTACH=CONFIG]353634[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]353635[/ATTACH]
Now sew down the edge of the block with a ¼’ seam it is really important to be right on with your ¼’ seam.

**** tips: Does your walker foot have a marked ¼’ seam, if not you can measure it and put a piece of masking tape on your sewing machine to help guide you.


[ATTACH=CONFIG]353638[/ATTACH] As you can see in the picture the front side now has the sashing piece with a raw edge.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]353639[/ATTACH] The backside has a finished folded edge.


Press open the front raw edge sashing piece to prepare for the upcoming steps in a following post.