SteveH

updates for today...

This is the spool pin and base, plus you can see a few shiny bolts

I have been following the idea that if when I clean it I see that it was shiny, I buff it, otherwise I leave it wire wheeled clean.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]392294[/ATTACH]

here is the needlebar, the presser bar, and the take-up assemblies all cleaned up, Brass springs again!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]392297[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]392299[/ATTACH]

vintagemotif

Those parts all shine! Nicely done!!

SteveH

ya know, I've worked with metal in one way or another for several decades, and I have to say that there REALLY IS a difference when working with old metal. Maybe it is the lack of "contains X% recycled materials" or my overly romantic imagination, but this metal seems to have nicer texture and seems to be more resistant to elements than modern metals.

vintagemotif

Sir Steve,
Well worth all the hours you have spent cleaning them. I love they way they clean up after decades of caked on dirt and oil. Don't know anything about the chemical compounds of metal from today versus a 100 years ago. Even with my lack of that knowledge, I can feel the difference in these vintage machines when using them for sewing. It's like their bones and souls are so much strong and smoother, like a good vintage.

Celeste

I do not get to spend a lot of time on the computer, so I usually just look. However, I do enjoy enough to comment, and completely agree with all the others, especially vintagemotifs;

SteveH

Thanks again folks. I have been really busy for the last few days with making armor but I am done with that project and am back on the "old girls"

Trying to remove the pulley for this unit has proven to be the most challenging aspect yet..

There are two screws that set most of the components on this machine. The 2nd screw on the pulley is the one that goes into the keyway and prevents it from slipping. This screw would not move.

In order I tried:
1. Force - Screwdriver
2. Brute Force - bigger screwdriver
3. Brute Force with attitude - screwdriver with vice-grips clamped on them for leverage.
4. PB Blaster (rust eater)
5. Krud cutter
6. Heat
7. Heat and #3....

8. Drilled a hole in the center of the screw with a milling machine and used an "easy out" to remove it.

Drilling the hole in the middle of the old stripped screw
[ATTACH=CONFIG]393564[/ATTACH]

here is what is left of the screw with the pin that makes up the bottom of the screw.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]393566[/ATTACH]

Now, to reproduce the set screw...

Caroline S

Again, another fascinating restoration process. Enjoying it immensely.

SteveH

turn out that I will not have to fab one up...

McMaster Carr sells them. (Hex head not slot screw but hey....)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=ldjyjn

SteveH

so, here is a couple of shots that I took after putting together enough parts to get it off the kitchen table....(oops)

here is a normal light shot the shows the decorative plate and the remains of the bed designs
(Yes, they did bed designs on W&W #8's)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]393678[/ATTACH]

Here is the same shot under a flash. (Really brings out the details)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]393680[/ATTACH]

here is a full view. The band-aids on the glass presser foot are because the needle bar has NO resistance to up and down movements while disconnected from the drive line. The glass is already cracked, and I do not want it getting worse. (BTW - I am looking for glass inserts or additional feet, this one is a gathering foot...)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]393681[/ATTACH]

NOTE: The damage to the paint on the arm is going to be one of the bigger issues to overcome while trying to preserve the original details...

barny

Oh, I've really enjoyed these pictures. Don't have a clue, but I love to tear things apart. You are really fantastic.