Broken threads
#11
Thank you all for your help & suggestions. I'm going to check into every suggestion made & hopefully 1 or the other will solve the problem. I think that my problem may just be a combination of all of the above, tension too tight, because I do get "eyelashes", but only on 1 machine. The other 2 that I've used at other times, do fine. Even my old antique Kenmore makes beautiful stitches. Lots of fuzzies from the Walmart threads on my Viking, but not so much on my Kenmore or Elna. All have the little white "Bobbin Genie" in them for easier thread flow too. Hmmm.... If I do a straight stitch & usually set it at the "stretch stitch" setting when quilting. As for Batting, I use the Warm & Natural & if I want a little more "POOF", I double it, But I stay away from cheap brands so won't get too many fuzzies in my sewing machine.
#12
P.S. I don't want to be a "THREAD SNOB" either, so I have tried Superior & Aurifil. Love them both. A little pricy, but I guess I'll have to invest so no more broken threads & ruined quilts. Never used Serger threads for quilting, no matter how tempting it is.
*** 2 more questions for you all experienced quilters?***
To prewash or not prewash quilting fabric, if not prewashed, could that be why threads are breaking?
*** 2 more questions for you all experienced quilters?***
To prewash or not prewash quilting fabric, if not prewashed, could that be why threads are breaking?
#13
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,406
The quilts that I've made using the cotton-covered Coats & Clark Dual Duty threads are still going strong - after many years and many washings!
Maybe it's because I bought the Coats & Clark threads at someplace other than WalMart?
(I am very sure that any C&C thread purchased at WalMart is equal to any C&C thread purchased elsewhere - just in case someone might think that C&C thread sold by WalMart is inferior to the C&C thread sold at JoAnn's)
When I did have threads 'pop' - it was because the tensions on the machine had gotten way off. When one thread is laying totally on the surface, there is no 'give' in that thread - so any stress -especially on/in a seam sewn on the bias - that will cause breakage.
After I noticed that issue - I did the seams over after I got the tensions adjusted properly.
A thread that is almost 'floating' is quite easy to pull out.
Maybe it's because I bought the Coats & Clark threads at someplace other than WalMart?
(I am very sure that any C&C thread purchased at WalMart is equal to any C&C thread purchased elsewhere - just in case someone might think that C&C thread sold by WalMart is inferior to the C&C thread sold at JoAnn's)
When I did have threads 'pop' - it was because the tensions on the machine had gotten way off. When one thread is laying totally on the surface, there is no 'give' in that thread - so any stress -especially on/in a seam sewn on the bias - that will cause breakage.
After I noticed that issue - I did the seams over after I got the tensions adjusted properly.
A thread that is almost 'floating' is quite easy to pull out.
Last edited by bearisgray; 05-31-2013 at 01:30 PM.
#14
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 9,396
Actually, this is not out of the realm of possibilities. One of the ways Walmart keeps their prices down is by buying seconds (products that did not meet strict quality assurance standards) from the manufacturers.
#15
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
No, I don't think so. A lot of us do not prewash fabric. Your problem is unusual. I think that if it is the straight-line stitches that are breaking (stitch-in-the-ditch) it is some combination of machine tension, needle type and needle size, and quality of thread issue.
#16
So can you please tell me what IS the correct size needle, thread, etc, when quilting, free motion or straight stitch? I have alot of needles, Top Stitching, Quilting, etc, all Schmetz. No Skimping there! But when it comes to quilting, I just can't seem to get it right. My stitching to make the quilt itself are all good.
**To Bearisgray** You made a very good observation. I have always had very tight stitches, straight or otherwise. It was just recently, that I noticed just how tight they were, when I had to tear something out & the stitches were so tight that my smallest seam ripper could not get underneath the stitches to rip them out. ***
My favorite sewing machine & most user friendly that I have is a Husqvarna Viking Desinger SE. My other 2 favorite machines for just piecing or sample stitching are my Kenmore & my little ELNA 1010, both very friendly & uncomplicated , non-computerized sewing machines, which make perfect stiches, especially free motion quilting, but too small to quilt large quilts.
**To Bearisgray** You made a very good observation. I have always had very tight stitches, straight or otherwise. It was just recently, that I noticed just how tight they were, when I had to tear something out & the stitches were so tight that my smallest seam ripper could not get underneath the stitches to rip them out. ***
My favorite sewing machine & most user friendly that I have is a Husqvarna Viking Desinger SE. My other 2 favorite machines for just piecing or sample stitching are my Kenmore & my little ELNA 1010, both very friendly & uncomplicated , non-computerized sewing machines, which make perfect stiches, especially free motion quilting, but too small to quilt large quilts.
#17
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 9,396
That right there is probably your number one problem. The stitches should NOT be that tight.
You can find tons of useful information at Superior Threads website.
http://www.superiorthreads.com/educa...e-right-needle
http://www.superiorthreads.com/media...tion_Guide.pdf
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sewnoma
For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts
10
08-13-2015 05:23 AM
AngelinaMaria
Main
161
10-02-2011 03:07 AM