Tri Flow; Pros and Cons
10-03-2013, 04:33 AM
#51
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
Originally Posted by oldsewnsew
Miriam, at what phase did you use Evapo-rust? Did you brush it on, soak the machine bottom section, or ?? Does it penetrate, or just neutralize surface rust and turn it to black (iron phosphate?) Look forward to your tutorial. I've got a 15-88 in a plastic tub with a lid, that I spray down, occasionally, then see if I can rock it a bit. It's so rough that mostly its a test piece, "let's see what happens if I..." Haven't tried heat yet though, maybe this weekend.
Last edited by miriam; 10-03-2013 at 04:39 AM.
10-03-2013, 04:48 AM
#53
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
When it comes to lubricants, there have been so many products sold that purport to offer some miraculous properties that will make them worth the extra money. (Marvel Mystery Oil, STP, 3in1, Liquid Wrench, WD40, ad nauseum). For example, "synthetic" motor oil (I'll admit, I've used them for years in my vehicle) are made from petroleum as well as "dinosaur-based" oil. It's just that there are more processing steps, and in some cases more specific additives. Graphite and teflon have all had their phases in motor oil, but are not largely used, sometimes because they penetrated so well, that they would leak through gaskets. Here's a link on motor oil, synthetic vs. "old school" http://www.consumersdigest.com/automotive/motor-oil
I bought a little needle nose dispenser of clock oil, from a local clocksmith who sells the product online. not to plug anyone but just search for clockoil(.com). Clock oil is also to be used one drop at a time, and you put another drop on in a year, in a hole with a pin, and severe loads, but I don't know that it's not repackaged snail-slime...
BTW, I'm not dissing TF, I use the heck out of it, and their spray, and grease, I'd just like to know what the real differences are between products, not subjected to my usual susceptability to advertising hype...
I bought a little needle nose dispenser of clock oil, from a local clocksmith who sells the product online. not to plug anyone but just search for clockoil(.com). Clock oil is also to be used one drop at a time, and you put another drop on in a year, in a hole with a pin, and severe loads, but I don't know that it's not repackaged snail-slime...
BTW, I'm not dissing TF, I use the heck out of it, and their spray, and grease, I'd just like to know what the real differences are between products, not subjected to my usual susceptability to advertising hype...
10-03-2013, 04:55 AM
#54
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
My former boss used to own an oil lab. I asked him about using the synthetic oils on my machines. He said they are too thick. He said I need a very thin oil on a SM. I showed him the T-F and he thought it was a good choice but since he didn't still have the lab he couldn't tell me much.
10-03-2013, 04:56 AM
#55
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
Originally Posted by oldsewnsew
When it comes to lubricants, there have been so many products sold that purport to offer some miraculous properties that will make them worth the extra money. (Marvel Mystery Oil, STP, 3in1, Liquid Wrench, WD40, ad nauseum). For example, "synthetic" motor oil (I'll admit, I've used them for years in my vehicle) are made from petroleum as well as "dinosaur-based" oil. It's just that there are more processing steps, and in some cases more specific additives. Graphite and teflon have all had their phases in motor oil, but are not largely used, sometimes because they penetrated so well, that they would leak through gaskets. Here's a link on motor oil, synthetic vs. "old school" http://www.consumersdigest.com/automotive/motor-oil
I bought a little needle nose dispenser of clock oil, from a local clocksmith who sells the product online. not to plug anyone but just search for clockoil(.com). Clock oil is also to be used one drop at a time, and you put another drop on in a year, in a hole with a pin, and severe loads, but I don't know that it's not repackaged snail-slime...
BTW, I'm not dissing TF, I use the heck out of it, and their spray, and grease, I'd just like to know what the real differences are between products, not subjected to my usual susceptability to advertising hype...
I bought a little needle nose dispenser of clock oil, from a local clocksmith who sells the product online. not to plug anyone but just search for clockoil(.com). Clock oil is also to be used one drop at a time, and you put another drop on in a year, in a hole with a pin, and severe loads, but I don't know that it's not repackaged snail-slime...
BTW, I'm not dissing TF, I use the heck out of it, and their spray, and grease, I'd just like to know what the real differences are between products, not subjected to my usual susceptability to advertising hype...
10-03-2013, 07:05 AM
#57
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
Originally Posted by Living4Him
Same idea as the little tiny ball in a bottle of nail polish. 
The mixture in the T-F bottles will "settle" like oil/vinegar salad dressing. Shaking it up keeps the "particulates in suspension" so you are not just putting on the carrier stuff alone.
I have thought about putting it in a glass bottle to see what happens.
10-03-2013, 08:32 AM
#58
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bunker Hill, IL
Posts: 101
Originally Posted by J Miller
I find it strange when folks use a good product then denigrate it when it does it's job. Tri-Flow oil has solvents it it. It also has PTFE in it. The solvents will dissolve the old oils but you have to clean the residue off then reoil the parts. The combination of dissolving the old lube and the PTFE might be the residue left behind.
I use regular SM oil in the motors. I use Tri-Flow every where else. I have used it on 100 year old machines all the way up to machines made in the 90s and have yet to see any evidence of paint removal.
I don't have any musical instruments to use it on, but I do have a couple of vintage mechanical and one electric typewriters I'm going to use it on. I expect the typewriters will work much better afterwards.
The ONLY con I find with Tri-Flow is you shouldn't use their grease in Singer motors. What makes it great on gears is the same thing that makes it unsuitable in motors.
Joe
I use regular SM oil in the motors. I use Tri-Flow every where else. I have used it on 100 year old machines all the way up to machines made in the 90s and have yet to see any evidence of paint removal.
I don't have any musical instruments to use it on, but I do have a couple of vintage mechanical and one electric typewriters I'm going to use it on. I expect the typewriters will work much better afterwards.
The ONLY con I find with Tri-Flow is you shouldn't use their grease in Singer motors. What makes it great on gears is the same thing that makes it unsuitable in motors.
Joe
10-03-2013, 08:34 AM
#59
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Originally Posted by miriam
When you buy a bottle of T-F do you open it up and drop in a nut or a screw so you can hear it shake around? That stuff needs to be shook up.
Joe
10-03-2013, 08:46 AM
#60
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Originally Posted by Grandma Nancy
You say it has solvents in it, but it is a good overall lubricant? I have used it without any problems, but didn't realize that it has solvents in it and don't know if that is a good or a bad thing for general lubrication.
I do not use T-F as a cleaner, it's not only too expensive for that, there are better cleaners to be had.
Joe
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