Singer 500 keeps unthreading itself
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New England
Posts: 865
Singer 500 keeps unthreading itself
I have meched a Singer 500 and have every reason to believe it is operating properly, cleaned, oiled and greased properly, etc. In the past, it has occasionally unthreaded itself, but I normally put 4 or 5 stitches into a thread starter (small scrap) and have no issues. Last time it did that, I changed the needle (from a vintage Singer 14 to a new vintage Singer 14 needle) and had no further issues. The needle that is in there now is a fresh needle with no signs of bending or burrs. I wanted to use up my Singer needles, but I wonder if I should go to Schmetz? And if so, which needle? Top stitch 16, maybe? What about a titanium needle?
I am using Connecting Threads 50/3 cotton thread. It isn't the best thread in the world but it seems adequate. I've used it on everything I've done on the 500 and had no issues.
I tried to do something different this time rather than just piece or quilt. I joined two half pieces of quilts (easier to quilt just half at a time) over a seam which had one side selvage and one side tucked-under fabric. The seam was pinned down with small drops of washable Elmer's school glue in the areas between pins. I had let the glue dry about 20 hours. I did not press it. The seam was thicker than the rest of the quilt, but I do know that the Singer 500 has the punching power to get through that. However, this is my first attempt at using Elmer's glue. How much is that contributing to the problem, I wonder?
The machine did great for the first half of the seam. I supported the quilt and, even though I was working only with the cabinet and no additional table for support, I had good stitching (hemming stitch). I've quilted a lot of quilts and know how to support them with my chest, shoulder, etc. At about the half way point, the thread started snapping. I was not using a thread starter in the middle of the seam, but did have long thread tails. Even when I put the first few stitches in by turning the hand wheel, every time I used the motor, the thread snapped. Immediately. It unthreaded from the needle, and the last two guides. That happened 10 or 12 times before I walked away in disgust.
It seems to me there is less room between the needle and the foot on the 500 than on most machines, and I couldn't get a threader in there. It threads front to back. Anyone else notice this or have trouble with it?
There was one other variable: I saw a tip on here about using kitchen sponges to quilt. You put the sponge side up with your hands over it and the scratchy side down on the quilt. That seems to work well, but I'm wondering if somehow I affected the rate at which the feed dogs were taking fabric.
What would you think caused the problem, and what would you do about it?
Thanks,
Cricket
I am using Connecting Threads 50/3 cotton thread. It isn't the best thread in the world but it seems adequate. I've used it on everything I've done on the 500 and had no issues.
I tried to do something different this time rather than just piece or quilt. I joined two half pieces of quilts (easier to quilt just half at a time) over a seam which had one side selvage and one side tucked-under fabric. The seam was pinned down with small drops of washable Elmer's school glue in the areas between pins. I had let the glue dry about 20 hours. I did not press it. The seam was thicker than the rest of the quilt, but I do know that the Singer 500 has the punching power to get through that. However, this is my first attempt at using Elmer's glue. How much is that contributing to the problem, I wonder?
The machine did great for the first half of the seam. I supported the quilt and, even though I was working only with the cabinet and no additional table for support, I had good stitching (hemming stitch). I've quilted a lot of quilts and know how to support them with my chest, shoulder, etc. At about the half way point, the thread started snapping. I was not using a thread starter in the middle of the seam, but did have long thread tails. Even when I put the first few stitches in by turning the hand wheel, every time I used the motor, the thread snapped. Immediately. It unthreaded from the needle, and the last two guides. That happened 10 or 12 times before I walked away in disgust.
It seems to me there is less room between the needle and the foot on the 500 than on most machines, and I couldn't get a threader in there. It threads front to back. Anyone else notice this or have trouble with it?
There was one other variable: I saw a tip on here about using kitchen sponges to quilt. You put the sponge side up with your hands over it and the scratchy side down on the quilt. That seems to work well, but I'm wondering if somehow I affected the rate at which the feed dogs were taking fabric.
What would you think caused the problem, and what would you do about it?
Thanks,
Cricket
Last edited by cricket_iscute; 06-03-2014 at 10:57 AM.
#2
Cricket - just to be clear - you're not FMQing? The sponges I thought had been recommended for that, but I suppose there's no reason not to use them for help with other quilting too As long as you're not pushing or pulling the fabric at a different rate than the machine wants, I can't see how it should be a problem.
What is your tension set at? How many layers are you going through when the thread snaps? I could see the glue causing a little breakage. When white glue dries in drops, the edges where we pierce it could be a little jagged... That might be why we hit it with an iron.
Vintage Singer needles are likely not a problem provided they don't have a burr in the eye or something but I do like topstitch needles because I find them more forgiving with that larger eye. Titanium is better wearing, I don't think it would make a lot of a difference in this case as far as thread breakage.
Is the thread shredding before it breaks, or snapping?
I'm sorry, I think I've just asked more questions than you did, but hopefully it will help us get to the bottom of it?
What is your tension set at? How many layers are you going through when the thread snaps? I could see the glue causing a little breakage. When white glue dries in drops, the edges where we pierce it could be a little jagged... That might be why we hit it with an iron.
Vintage Singer needles are likely not a problem provided they don't have a burr in the eye or something but I do like topstitch needles because I find them more forgiving with that larger eye. Titanium is better wearing, I don't think it would make a lot of a difference in this case as far as thread breakage.
Is the thread shredding before it breaks, or snapping?
I'm sorry, I think I've just asked more questions than you did, but hopefully it will help us get to the bottom of it?
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New England
Posts: 865
Thanks, ArchaicArcane. Those are good questions. The answers are:
I am not fmq. I am straight-line quilting and, in the case of this seam, with a hemming stitch. I am not using a walking foot because I've never needed one on this machine.
I don't think I was pushing or pulling fabric but maybe I was. I can try that again with gloves and see how it works.
The tension is set at 1.5, where it has been set all along and has had no problems.
I'm going through five layers of cotton (foundation piecing) and one layer of batting when the thread snaps. This machine should be able to handle this. My Singer 401 can, and they are very much alike.
It's my first time using the glue. Yes, the edges could be ragged. I skipped (pressing) that step because the iron was downstairs and my knees objected. I was careful not to use too much glue. I did smooth most of it out with a toothpick.
The thread is shredding, but not a lot. Like I said, this is not the world's best thread but it has done an acceptable job until now. I do not think it is Egyptian long staple cotton thread but I'm not sure. It is Connecting Threads thread and it's my first order of it. I've been though several spools of it without problems. I bought it because I'm working on quilts for homeless families, and for the price, it's wonderful.
Thanks for your help!
I am not fmq. I am straight-line quilting and, in the case of this seam, with a hemming stitch. I am not using a walking foot because I've never needed one on this machine.
I don't think I was pushing or pulling fabric but maybe I was. I can try that again with gloves and see how it works.
The tension is set at 1.5, where it has been set all along and has had no problems.
I'm going through five layers of cotton (foundation piecing) and one layer of batting when the thread snaps. This machine should be able to handle this. My Singer 401 can, and they are very much alike.
It's my first time using the glue. Yes, the edges could be ragged. I skipped (pressing) that step because the iron was downstairs and my knees objected. I was careful not to use too much glue. I did smooth most of it out with a toothpick.
The thread is shredding, but not a lot. Like I said, this is not the world's best thread but it has done an acceptable job until now. I do not think it is Egyptian long staple cotton thread but I'm not sure. It is Connecting Threads thread and it's my first order of it. I've been though several spools of it without problems. I bought it because I'm working on quilts for homeless families, and for the price, it's wonderful.
Thanks for your help!
Last edited by cricket_iscute; 06-03-2014 at 01:48 PM.
#5
I'd pull a few yards off the spool and try it again. I've run into what appear to be "bad spots" in some thread. Even had a few spools that got cut at on point in the top, so every time I'd get around to that particular place in the wrap, it's separate.
#7
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Location: New England
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Cricket
#8
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New England
Posts: 865
I've made progress with this problem, but it is not solved. The first time I went back to sew with it, it made a loud noise and the spool almost jumped off the spool pin. I removed the quilt from the machine and opened the bobbin area. I found a mess, including that the bobbin assembly had jumped out of it's position. There were random thread pieces and a small bit of lint. I had cleaned it thoroughly when I put that bobbin in. I took the needle out and found it bent from that incident. I changed it for a Singer 16 needle. I had already decreased the pressure to 3 before I started the seam.
BTW, I am using the same thread in the bobbin as on top. I have followed the manual for threading instructions.
Things were fine until I tried to sew fast. Then every time, the thread frayed and snapped. I have noticed that this machine will do exactly that when I sew fast no matter what thread or needle I use. I am beginning to think that the problem is the sewing speed, or when the motor first starts. Does anyone know why this is happening?
Thanks,
Cricket
BTW, I am using the same thread in the bobbin as on top. I have followed the manual for threading instructions.
Things were fine until I tried to sew fast. Then every time, the thread frayed and snapped. I have noticed that this machine will do exactly that when I sew fast no matter what thread or needle I use. I am beginning to think that the problem is the sewing speed, or when the motor first starts. Does anyone know why this is happening?
Thanks,
Cricket
Last edited by cricket_iscute; 06-04-2014 at 09:28 AM.
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Cricket,
I have an idea. The bobbin case cushion spring may be set with too wide a gap. This will allow the bobbin case to move around more than it should and will mess up the thread path and tensions. I have had to adjust this on both our 500s.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]477898[/ATTACH]
Check this picture out. There are four places that have adjustments and if they are out too much the bobbin case will jump it's track and your thread tension will not be right.
The specs are:
A: .012" to .016"
B: .012" to .016"
C: .015" to .023"
D: .025" to .045"
Check these measurements with a narrow gap gauge. C is a diagonal measurement between the little finger and the bobbin hook.
If they are out of spec, PM me your email and I'll send you images of the service manual where it has instructions on how to adjust things.
It's probably copy writed and if so the moderators will delete it if I post it here.
Joe
I have an idea. The bobbin case cushion spring may be set with too wide a gap. This will allow the bobbin case to move around more than it should and will mess up the thread path and tensions. I have had to adjust this on both our 500s.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]477898[/ATTACH]
Check this picture out. There are four places that have adjustments and if they are out too much the bobbin case will jump it's track and your thread tension will not be right.
The specs are:
A: .012" to .016"
B: .012" to .016"
C: .015" to .023"
D: .025" to .045"
Check these measurements with a narrow gap gauge. C is a diagonal measurement between the little finger and the bobbin hook.
If they are out of spec, PM me your email and I'll send you images of the service manual where it has instructions on how to adjust things.
It's probably copy writed and if so the moderators will delete it if I post it here.
Joe
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