Darning/Embroidery on Vintage Singers
10-02-2014, 06:56 AM
#21
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
10-02-2014, 07:56 AM
#22
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Frederick, OK
Posts: 2,031
Yes Mike, I don’t know if the buttonholer cover plate would help enough for this gadget or not. I’m thinking that I need the extra height of the domed cover plates to make it more functional since it leaves so danged much needle sticking out, but I could be wrong.
Yes Jim. That's the one that Mike linked me to.
CD in Oklahoma
Yes Jim. That's the one that Mike linked me to.
CD in Oklahoma
10-02-2014, 01:57 PM
#23
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Frederick, OK
Posts: 2,031
My darning experiment #2 is on a Singer 66-14 (treadle) using cover plate #32589 and needle-mount darning attachment #86294. Thread is Coats Dual Duty+ (white) in the bobbin, and Molnlycke thread (Fresno, CA) in the top. Molnlycke is a polyester thread that I have no knowledge about what-so-ever. I snatched off of the wife’s thread tower because the color coordinated with the 9-patch block that I was trying to embroider text on in experiment #1. The fabric is un-starched utility muslin.
So I removed the foot, foot thumb screw, and needle clamp. I installed the needle into the stand-in darning clamp #86294. I attached the cover plate #32589, threaded up the machine, and pulled my bobbin thread to the top. The first problem that I ran into was that the 4” plastic hoop that I clamped my fabric in wouldn’t fit under the needle. I swapped out for my 5” thin metal hoop, and began my darning. Nothing planned, I just went willy-nilly to see what would happen.
CD in Oklahoma
So I removed the foot, foot thumb screw, and needle clamp. I installed the needle into the stand-in darning clamp #86294. I attached the cover plate #32589, threaded up the machine, and pulled my bobbin thread to the top. The first problem that I ran into was that the 4” plastic hoop that I clamped my fabric in wouldn’t fit under the needle. I swapped out for my 5” thin metal hoop, and began my darning. Nothing planned, I just went willy-nilly to see what would happen.
CD in Oklahoma
10-02-2014, 01:58 PM
#24
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Frederick, OK
Posts: 2,031
To my surprise, things went well and the stitches looked great even when I turned sharp little turns like I would if I were stitching cursive text on a signature block. I was impressed! There was a time or two when I put a lot of stitches in the same place (didn’t keep my hoop moving), that I could feel the thread binding, but as long as I kept moving the hoop even so little, things seemed to go good.
Then I cut my threads to look at the underside of my fabric, and I’m not sure what to think. Looks to me like my tensions are way off. The bobbin thread is a straight line, and the top thread is making loops. I’ve never seen the underside of a darned item, but I don’t think it’s supposed to look like mine. I’ll have to do some more playing with things. Advice anyone? (Other than "Don't quit your day job.")
CD in Oklahoma
Then I cut my threads to look at the underside of my fabric, and I’m not sure what to think. Looks to me like my tensions are way off. The bobbin thread is a straight line, and the top thread is making loops. I’ve never seen the underside of a darned item, but I don’t think it’s supposed to look like mine. I’ll have to do some more playing with things. Advice anyone? (Other than "Don't quit your day job.")
CD in Oklahoma
Last edited by ThayerRags; 10-02-2014 at 02:04 PM. Reason: Added text.
10-02-2014, 02:53 PM
#25
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
my first thought is to match your top and bottom thread. Back in the day, we didn't have that new-fangled "polly-esther" thread, only cotton or silk. Slow down? I tend to have more problems when I'm doing free motion work if I go too fast. Upper tension issue or a burr somewhere down below catching the top thread. I had a similar issue last night with one of my embroidery machines when the bobbin was almost empty. That's all I can think of right now.
Cari
Cari
10-02-2014, 03:03 PM
#26
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,131
I’ve gotten interested in darning and embroidery on old Singer sewing machines, and Singer made several vintage hopping feet through the years that I want to play with to see if I can learn to use them. This first post is about a combination of machine, darning attachment, and feed cover plate that don’t work together.
I had tried to darn or embroider some text on a signature block in a 9-patch quilt block, and ran into problems trying to use Singer Darning Needle Clamp #86294 on a 1901 Singer 27K2 with the feed set at zero but no cover plate. It didn’t work well at all. Thread nesting and thread breakage were the result. I thought maybe it needed a feed cover plate to help it work.
So, I looked around for a feed cover plate, and tried the Singer #121309 Cover Plate that fits several Singer machines, but I learned that it doesn’t fit the model 27. The plate attachment hole won’t reach to the bed screw hole to attach it. So now, I’m trying to figure out if there was another feed cover plate for the model 27, or if I’m trying to use the darning needle clamp on the wrong machine.
CD in Oklahoma
I had tried to darn or embroider some text on a signature block in a 9-patch quilt block, and ran into problems trying to use Singer Darning Needle Clamp #86294 on a 1901 Singer 27K2 with the feed set at zero but no cover plate. It didn’t work well at all. Thread nesting and thread breakage were the result. I thought maybe it needed a feed cover plate to help it work.
So, I looked around for a feed cover plate, and tried the Singer #121309 Cover Plate that fits several Singer machines, but I learned that it doesn’t fit the model 27. The plate attachment hole won’t reach to the bed screw hole to attach it. So now, I’m trying to figure out if there was another feed cover plate for the model 27, or if I’m trying to use the darning needle clamp on the wrong machine.
CD in Oklahoma
More than a few years back when "Needlepainting" or "Threadpainting" embroidery was all the rage, Nancy's Notions sold a 9" wooden emb. hoop for this. Where you are struggling to get the needle inside the hoop, her's had a dip smoothed out along an edge for about 3", made it easy to clear the edge under the needle. Think wheelchair access cut into a curb, but not all the way through. You could probably get your emb. hoop past that needle by setting it on edge next to the needle and sliding the side of the hoop under the needle, then drop it down to the bed of the machine.
As for avoiding the use of a stabelizer, I think in the old days they used that stiff stuff used in tailoring suits. I keep thinking horsehair, think another name was crinoline.
10-02-2014, 04:27 PM
#27
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
CD you might want to look up "eyelashing" here on the site. I think that's what the loops are that you see on the bottom. I don't know the fix for it though. I think you're getting close.
I like the idea of cutting a notch in the hoop. It seems obvious once you hear about it but I probably wouldn't have thought of it myself.
Rodney
I like the idea of cutting a notch in the hoop. It seems obvious once you hear about it but I probably wouldn't have thought of it myself.
Rodney
10-02-2014, 04:50 PM
#29
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
Cari
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Deara
For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts
60
11-29-2010 06:38 AM
