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Opinion-how to join batting scraps

Opinion-how to join batting scraps

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Old 11-04-2014, 06:29 AM
  #21  
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I whip stitch them by hand.
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Old 11-04-2014, 08:29 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ctrysass2012 View Post
I purchased light weight interfacing, cut 2-3 inch strips & ironed that on the joins. Much like the tape but the interfacing was on sale for about $1.00/yard & worked as well IMO as the tape & much less pricy.
This is what I do too, it is really cheap and easy
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Old 11-04-2014, 11:10 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by cowpie2 View Post
I have collected two large totes of batting strips left over from quilts. I have trimmed and squared them up. Now what is the simplest way to put all the pieces together? Zig zag stitch on the sewing machine or would just a simple whip stitch by hand be sufficient?
I prefer whip stitching by hand----------I can adjust position of batting more easily than if using a machine.
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Old 11-05-2014, 02:28 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by maryb119 View Post
I butt the edges together and use the 3 step zig zag stitch. They lay flat and when it's quilted you don't have a ridge when the pieces are joined.
I use this stitch also to join batting - much better than simple zigzag as it remains flat and soft. It's utility stitch #09 on the Janome 8900 and 6600.
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Old 11-05-2014, 03:36 AM
  #25  
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I have a friend that swears by the batting joining tape. She thinks it is excellent!
Me - I cut up my batting into squares then use it for Quilt As You Go projects!
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Old 11-05-2014, 04:48 AM
  #26  
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I typically use the 3 step zig-zag stitch found on my Brother machine.

I float my tops and have cut my batting a bit short several times. You'd think I would get it right after doing that once. When that happens, I have been known to butt up the new piece of batting and flip the quilt top over it and continue quilting. I use pantos that are medium density of stitching and Warm & Natural batting, which recommends stitching every 10 inches. As long as I have quilted enough stitches, the W&N doesn't move. When I say enough stitches, the panto patterns I typically use, are ones that don't have really straight lines along any edges, so the interlocking edges go back & forth over the batting I butted up. I haven't seen any separation in the batting, and between us and the dogs using the quilts, they get a lot of washing.

Years ago, I saw an article that recommending this butting up method - they started by layering the two pieces of batting together, then taking a rotary cutter and weaved a cutting line that wasn't straight, sorta like uneven scallops. Picture the batting looking like a big long piece not on top of each other, except where the two pieces are to be joined. This weaving of the cutting means you can use straight lines of stitching and still have both pieces caught with the same stitches. I'll see if I can find the article.

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...2184254AAginNr
http://quiltersbattinguniversity.blo...wo-pieces.html (I use this method but don't use the fusible to hold it together.)
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:21 AM
  #27  
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I lay out the batting pieces on a table, lay the batting tape on it and press with an iron. It's much faster then sewing but I use the tape and ever how many folding tables I need because I don't have to move the batting until it's the size I need it to be.
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Old 11-05-2014, 02:50 PM
  #28  
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I've joined mine using a whip stitch while laying the two pieces side by side on my cutting table. This is the best way for me not to get any puckers and I use a loose stitch just making sure the two pieces are held. I've bought the tape you iron on but prefer the hand stitching.
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Old 11-05-2014, 03:14 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ctrysass2012 View Post
I purchased light weight interfacing, cut 2-3 inch strips & ironed that on the joins. Much like the tape but the interfacing was on sale for about $1.00/yard & worked as well IMO as the tape & much less pricy.
I do this, too, only I often use scraps of interfacing left over from applique projects. Either way, it's fast and easy.
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