Your Best Piecing Tips for Accuracy
#13
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 10,590
One trick I used with Y seams, until I got adept at them was to insert a pin straight across the seam allowance where I needed to stop. Another trick I used was to mark the seam allowance so I had a visual cue to know where to stop and back-stitch. Would love to see a picture of your block.
#14
I started out sewing quilt seams by hand piecing. They teach you to begin your stitching a quarter inch in on the seam when you are going to have seams that will need pressing open to keep a sharp point and distribute the bulk on the back of the block. The use of a scant quarter inch seam is important too with busy designs. In some cases a eighth of a seam is used in those pinwheel type blocks to eliminate the bulk.
This information has served me well all these years being able to "read" how the back needs to be treated to have a balance after it is finished. I hope this helps a little. Think ahead and Remember, pressing is a straight down motion, not scrubbing around those bias edges that will stretch like a sweater very easily.
One more thing. Use a new sharp needle and your straight stitch plate one your machine.
In the case of a y seam, you are in essence just turning the fabric at the sharp point and sewing down the other side. Stop with your needle down at the Y point, turn your work, align the edges together, sew down the other seam. It is kind of like turning a street corner.
This information has served me well all these years being able to "read" how the back needs to be treated to have a balance after it is finished. I hope this helps a little. Think ahead and Remember, pressing is a straight down motion, not scrubbing around those bias edges that will stretch like a sweater very easily.
One more thing. Use a new sharp needle and your straight stitch plate one your machine.
In the case of a y seam, you are in essence just turning the fabric at the sharp point and sewing down the other side. Stop with your needle down at the Y point, turn your work, align the edges together, sew down the other seam. It is kind of like turning a street corner.
Last edited by RedGarnet222; 10-21-2015 at 08:56 AM.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 376
Y seams not withstanding . . .i used to struggle getting 1/4" seams . . .tried various feet, etc. then, an experienced piecer pointed out, it could be my thread and machine needle. Sure enough, my needle was too large . . .it displaced the threads in the cotton weave . . .and my thread, too thick, was keeping the cotton weave displaced by filling the gap the needle made.
I switched to Schmetz Microtex 70 needles and 50wt Aurifil thread and my seams have been spot on since.
I switched to Schmetz Microtex 70 needles and 50wt Aurifil thread and my seams have been spot on since.
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: western Pa
Posts: 4,569
I usually avoid y-seams (I'd rather have my gallbladder removed without anesthesia that do a y-seam) but when they are unavoidable I've found that marking the 1/4" seam allowance and the dot (pivot point) helps rather than just marking the dot and visualizing the 1/4" seam allowance. On small pieces, I do them by hand but still mark the seam and dot.
#18
Power Poster
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern USA
Posts: 16,002
Y seams not withstanding . . .i used to struggle getting 1/4" seams . . .tried various feet, etc. then, an experienced piecer pointed out, it could be my thread and machine needle. Sure enough, my needle was too large . . .it displaced the threads in the cotton weave . . .and my thread, too thick, was keeping the cotton weave displaced by filling the gap the needle made.
I switched to Schmetz Microtex 70 needles and 50wt Aurifil thread and my seams have been spot on since.
I switched to Schmetz Microtex 70 needles and 50wt Aurifil thread and my seams have been spot on since.
#19
Recently finished a quilt with a spiral mandala from a class by Ranae Merrill. I learned for critical matching to machine baste first. Easy to take out if you need to and holds perfectly for the final pass once it is right.
#20
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,440
With Y seams - I NEVER backstitch. I do, however, take a stitch or two extra, unsew to the "exact" spot, and then tie the threads.
The reasons I do it this way - my machine backstitching is less than wonderful - it seems to pucker, and/or I get off the line, and I feel that the extra machine stitching adds bulk to the intersection and makes it harder to manage the next step. I tie the threads so that the rest of the stitching does not dome apart.
I also mark the seams near the intersections. It has saved me time in the long run.
Maybe I will be able to just look at it and know at some point - but I'm not there quite yet.
The reasons I do it this way - my machine backstitching is less than wonderful - it seems to pucker, and/or I get off the line, and I feel that the extra machine stitching adds bulk to the intersection and makes it harder to manage the next step. I tie the threads so that the rest of the stitching does not dome apart.
I also mark the seams near the intersections. It has saved me time in the long run.
Maybe I will be able to just look at it and know at some point - but I'm not there quite yet.
Last edited by bearisgray; 10-21-2015 at 10:45 AM.
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